haggis

Hi all, being lazy and wanting to enjoy my car over the summer, I’ve not replaced the rear overdrive seal yet, but the smell of burning transmission oil on my exhaust has stopped. Should I be worried that I now have no oil in my gearbox, or is the level beneath the seal acceptable. I think I know the answer, just hoping you will all say it will be fine 🙏 thanks hag

Hi guys, following on from all the great comments, I was just looking around for costs of new valve guides, and noticed both rimmers and moss are doing updated versions in bronze, has anyone used them? And are they different for the Vit6 from the 2l version? It’s a very late 6 with strombergs if that makes a difference. Thanks hag

Hi Johnny, yes they were lines I was thinking of proceeding with. I got the head converted to unleaded about 25 years ago, and pretty sure I did the guides at the same time, I guess nothing lasts forever. The good thing that did happen After the Italian tune up was that my spark plugs are now the perfect buff colour and not black, crusty & oily, in fact no signs of oil being on them, the level is now 1/2 way on the dipstick, fingers crossed it stays there. Thanks hag

Hi Jonny/ Pete. Definitely no rocker oil feed fitted, and doesn’t appear to be oil from anywhere, I cleaned all the breathers out, the only place is the tiny hole in the filler cap that weeps a little. There are little leaks from both ends of the crank, and there is oil to the rear of the engine, dizzy side from head down. Next step has got to be cylinder head removal, check valve guides (I hear there are ones with seals somewhere?) and head gasket replacement, sounds like I may have missed the little oil hole that needs sealing on the head gasket. Thanks hag

Thanks guys for all your comments, I’ve just completed the compression as stated on packaging 5-10seconds of turning over and got these results. All cylinders at 138psi standard, except no 1 at 142psi. With a squirt of oil in each cylinder 1-148, 2+3- 150, 4+5 - 142, 6-140. Looking in my manual it says between 9 & 10 kg/cm2, so it looks spot on according to the gauge on the tester or Is GT6m’s approach better? On every turn The gauge read higher. I did follow your advice gt6m for the Italian tune up but didn’t do the test before so no idea if it worked or not. Thanks hag.

Hi guys, thanks again for your input. To Johny: I have an oil consumption issue that I’m trying to improve, I think it’s rings, hence the compression test. Whichever option valves or rings, the head will need to be removed. I got oily crusty plugs and Smoking on start up when warm. I was tempted to look at the head first as it’s the easier option. I’ve looked at the breathing side of things and I’ve had the vehicle 30 years and every year it gets worse. Dipstick full to halfway in 180 miles, couple of minor leaks each end of the crank. To Pete: sounds like easy mods, mine’s late so has the Strombergs already, semi sports exhaust, just missing the manifold. Sounds like the head skim had an effect too, food for thought as the heads likely to be coming off. Thanks hag

Great responses, thanks everyone. In regards to the compression test, I’m assuming if a little oil in the chamber improves the test results then it’s the rings, correct? It was nearly 20 years ago when I did the head last, so can’t 100% remember copper or copper composite, but it was definitely copper coloured. I’ll take a pic when I get it apart, seems a shame to do it in the sunshine especially as it’s a convertible, might get delayed by a few months. Pete, was the skimming all you did to improve performance or did you change cams, carbs etc? Thanks again hag

Hi all, just about to do a compression test on my 1600 vitesse, can anyone confirm what a good reading should be? I know it has an old copper head gasket on it,, can you reuse this type of gasket? I seem to remember reusing it about twenty years ago as it looked better than the press steel ones. Thanks hag

Colin, easy mistake to make, its sounding like it may just fit now, thanks for your help. Hag

Ok, thanks for the replies, yes it is that part number Pete. That’s s good idea, I’ll try that. Thanks hag

Thanks Colin, much appreciate you taking time to do that for me. Can you just confirm that the depth is more than the height? I’m assuming the height is the side with the holes in for carbs? From the pictures I’ve seen it looks the other way around. Thanks Hag

Hi all, I’ve managed to acquire another leak from the drive flange on my d type overdrive unit, does anyone know if a drive flange off a standard gearbox is the same? Thank hag

Hi all, trying to find an air filter box that might work with my triple Stromberg setup. Can anyone confirm the length, width and depth of a tr7 air box please, looks like it might just fit. Just the main rectangular box please. Thanks hag

Hi Pete, club shop sell everything you need for more noise. you must be a young member as the old crowd like to quieten them down. Full sports for maximum noise, semi sports for a medium noise and standard for normal. I have full sports on my mk1, sounds awesome, but then I’m under 50 and have great neighbours. I have applied dynamat to the shell for an all over more refined sound and feel though. I have semi sports on my vitesse and it’s s lovely mellower noise and you don’t need to adjust jets and change manifolds etc. No idea about costs, but have a look at the club shop on this website. Hag

Thanks Pete, so the set up shown in this picture is fine? Hag

Hi all, can anyone advise if a very late 1600 was fitted with a PCV valve? I currently have the manifold hole blanked off and a terrible aftermarket thing on the end of the tube from the rocker. It does seem to use some oil over short distances and thought this might not be helping the situation. Thanks hag

Hi all, picking up from my previous post I’m still looking for piston related parts for a 1600 rebuild, there is a set of +0.20 available in Australia? Does anyone know what the original AE codes for the 1600 should be? Thanks hag https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272647064043

Hi, thats what I had assumed was correct but was just checking The bolt is a plug from a previous owner who used this instead of the one in the centre for a basic one pipe catchment open can, no idea why. I will go with reusing it for the servo. Thanks for all your help. Hag

Thanks Pete & Doug but I’m confused, engine side is rocker cover isn’t it? Valve comes after catch can before inlet manifold? Hopefully picture makes sense. Hag

Hi guys, merry Christmas to you all, managed to squeeze a servo on the bulkhead of my Gt6, I run an oil catch can with a pipe off the rocker cover to the can, then a pipe to the inlet manifold with a PCV valve fitted. Where do I connect the vacuum pipe to the servo? Before or after the valve. Thanks hag

Hi, thanks for your comments, I’ve ordered a rad blanking cap and a new top hose, hoping to fill it up at the weekend and give it a try. Hag

Not sure it did both pics.

Hi, think I managed to get my head around it, I’ve included a couple of pics of my new setup, would appreciated anyone taking a look and letting me know if i need to change anything. I do intend to fit a standard cap. Thanks hag

Anyone else fitted a header tank to standard system? Nice work John, looks well considered and neat, I like the pipe ‘conduit’ idea. Hag

Hi john, I’m just coming out of a vw golf rad conversion which is similar to yours , , , ,going back to a normal set up as I squeezed some funds for an alicool Rad and just wondering if it’s worth keeping the header and incorporating into new system. What’s the small pipe hugging the back of the rad on your picture? Thanks hag