haggis

Hi algy, I did post this about a year ago and I believed the general consensus was to put a thin layer (I had assumed instant gasket) in the two places mentioned, I was thinking loctite SI5980 as this has worked really well in my engine rebuild, no leaks to date anywhere Except at the Head/block of course. It has reduced to a minor seepage now, which is annoying but it’s easier to wipe it off than go through removing the head and doing it again! Head & block both skimmed, torqued cold & hot, initially the head wouldn’t torque down as the washers(as you mention) were rubbish, so replaced with new and r torqued again twice. Not sure how to add the previous post. Hag

Hi all, I used a payan gasket and both head and block were skimmed and still seeps/leaks, down the side of the engine. Re-torqued head twice now, reduced leak slightly but still there. Wish I’d used a tiny bit of instant gasket! Hag

Hi Gary, I’m mentioned this before, but so annoyed I’ve got to take my head off again to do it, don’t forget the little bit of instant gasket around the oil feed hole to the head and Put some around the big slot holes where the push rods go. Not too much mind you. Hag

Just a little update, Burlen o rings fit a treat, no wobble & no fuel leaking. ?? Thanks hag.

Hi Leon, I bought a recon diff from them last year, slight whining after a few thousand miles, but nothing I wouldn’t expect from a triumph diff. I would recommend . Hag

Hi Colin, same engine as yours 2.0 Ltr, carbs came with the car. It’s a triple stromberg set up with an American ‘goodparts’ inlet manifold. Managed to get them set up well and it runs better than expected. Hag

Hi Colin, you could try making your own heat shield, you can buy material from demon tweets, car builder, etc, mine works a treat my carbs are cold even after a long hot run, but I do have my exhaust wrapped as well. I would look at fuel pump & tank breather while you are waiting for the new shiny bits to arrive. Good luck hag

Hi, placed an order with Burlen, not sure 4 tiny ‘O’ rings should cost £3.95 to send though! I’ll give them a try and fingers crossed it cures the problem. Thanks for all your help hag

Hi Pete, well initially I bought some from Rimmers but they worse, so went to Canley in the end, better but don’t seem to last long. Should they be slack enough to be really easily turned? I assumed they need at least need a bit of grip to keep them in position? Thanks hag

I found this at southern carburettors, http://www.southerncarbs.co.uk/onlineshopproducts_53353/prod_1990850-175-CD-Stromberg-Conversion-Kit.html but does anyone know if 175 parts are compatible with 150’s thanks hag

Hi Richard, not heard of them, it’s not the part I think, it’s the bigger brass item that the jet goes into. Ill take a look at Burlen though, thanks. Hag

Hi everyone, I seem to be replacing rubber ‘o’ Rings from the brass adjustable jet on the bottom of a stromberg on a regular basis, as they just keep leaking. I have a couple of spare carbs and have checked them all and the adjustable jet seems too loose in the brass jet holder and moves around a bit in all of them, is this normal? I’m assuming these things can’t really wear as the tolerance is in the ‘O’ ring. It’s not leaking from the brass jet holder/ float chamber housing ( the big O ring) always on the adjustable jet. Any ideas how to stop it leaking? I’ve looked at all the usual suppliers but can’t find replacement jet holders, Can you buy new ones somewhere? Thanks as always. Hag

Hi Wayne, just a little reminder about the washer behind the clutch Clevis pin, I didn’t do it and have to continually keep my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, wish someone had reminded me. It’s to do with the new thrust bearings being slightly smaller than original. Good luck with the fit tomorrow. Hag

Thanks everyone for your help, ill do some more investigations and let you know. Hag

Hi Pete, temp spot on for engine, (it does have a golf rad fitted) I did check the valve and gave heater a blast through with a hose a few months back when I was doing the rad. It did squirt a bit of rusty water out but seemed to flow very well, I was wondering if someone has bypassed the matrix with a straight pipe through the heater box ? Is that possible? Thanks hag

Well contrary to popular belief, not all Gt6 drivers wear shorts. Having ‘dynamatted’ my mk1 over the winter it would appear that my heater doesn’t work. I took my car today, but had to return to get my woolly hat, gloves and an extra fleece! My question is how easy are they to take out with the interior in? Or what’s the minimum I have to take out to get access? Thanks hag

Thanks Colin, great offer, let me just do one final check with Triumph spares & spitbitz and if they don’t come up trumps I might just take you up on that. Thanks hag

100% behind this. Hag

Hi colin, now that is a great idea! I’m sure we all have boxes full of Triumph bits that could help fellow members out, what say you forum people? A bit like ‘parts wanted’ but on the forum? Thanks everyone for your replies, I’ll keep looking, unless someone has one they can measure I could make my own? Thanks hag

Hi all, been trying to source a part to get my sunvisors on, anyone got one of these lying around? Part no 710061, think it was fitted to early spitfires too. It’s the bit that fixes to the roof with two bent pivot bars attached, or anyone know of another type that might fit? It’s a long shot, and not 100% sure the forum is meant for this but worth a try. Thanks hag

Pete is right, I forgot about the washers, really important. the ones I bought from rimmers were rubbish and deformed quickly, resulting in numerous head torque sessions. Canley ones worked a treat. Hag

Hi mike, I recently had some issues swapping around heads on a vitesse engine, I would suggest checking the overall head height as the dome piston head is slightly taller than flat piston variety, which ultimately affects the compression ratio. Flat pistons with taller head will have bad low compression, and shorter head with domed pistons will have too high compression, I would stick with the mk3 one if it was me, don’t forget to put some gasket sealant around the head gasket near the conrod holes ( Edge furthest away from pistons the distributor side) as I assumed skimming both head and block would be fine! Gonna have to do it again as leaking down the side of the block, doh! If only I read the forum more often. Good luck hag

Hi Neil, just remembered there is also a place in the new forest called Tudor wheels seem to specialise in refurbing wire wheels, maybe they can sort them out for you, I was intending to get them to refurb my steels when I get a chance, so have no prior with them, but they are local. hag ps if you do use them, let me know how you get on.

I would try Micheldever tyres, just on the A303 north of Winchester, they have a fantastic set up and get the alignment done at the same time, they just did my mk1 and the difference is amazing, but give them a ring first. Hag.

Hi everyone, not sure this is the right place to do this, but wanted to let everyone know about the first class service at Micheldever tyres in Hampshire. I have just completed a full suspension rebuild on my Gt6 and took it into these guys for alignment. They have two dedicated bays with two specialists just doing alignment, and if you give them a ring in advance they will book you in for a slot. I left there this afternoon with a car that feels so good on the road, that I thought I ought to tell everyone on the forum about it. If you live anywhere near Hampshire and want a really good service, then These are the guys. They charge £32 for basic toe adjustments, but charged me £96 for camber, caster & toe, although this does depend on how much they have to do. Hope this helps some other fellow owners. hag