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Tom

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Everything posted by Tom

  1. Hello, my Herald 1200 convertible is missing the 'male' part of the anti burst catch on the passenger side, the door appears to be a replacement as it has a different colour paint under the top coat. I'm assuming the door is from a Saloon as there are no holes for the catch on the door. My question is can the catch be retro fitted to saloon doors and if so does anyone know where one can be found? thanks, Tom.
  2. Plastic junk! non of the charm of the older stuff, I doubt it would even last 20 years!!!!
  3. A couple of years ago I cleared a garage of a friend those father had passed away, I saved a number of very useful things from the skip including this Halfords oil gun circa 1960/70's. It even came boxed! I've never had the opportunity to use until now, I filled my diff and gearbox with and it worked really well, pushing the oil in under pressure really made the job quicker and cleaner. A good find! Tom.
  4. Brilliant Colin, that's perfect. I kind of thought that would be the most logical Thanks again, Tom.
  5. The bit I'm scratching my head with is the route from the main chassis rail to the three way connector ( see pic ) as it has to get around the structure that the damper attaches to. Does it just bend around the outside edge under the drive shaft? Tom.
  6. Hello, would anyone have photos of the fuel and brake pipe routes from the center of the chassis to the rear? Thanks, Tom.
  7. Hi again, rapidly approaching the point where I will loosely fit the rear tub, line up the doors so I can fit the repair panels behind the doors and ensure they fit nicely around the door bottoms. One of my quandaries is that the bottom edge of the the repair panal should fit nicely with the bolt on sill, my problem is that my sills look like they have been bodged on many times and it's difficult to determine where they should sit in the vertical plain ie. should they be pushed up tight against the bottom edge of the kickboards? or should there be a gap? If I fit the sill as they came off there is probably a 4mm gap between the top of the sill and bottom edge of the kick board, I suppose it would make more sense to have a bit of a gap it's just how much?
  8. Cheers again Colin, Ok will do , my plan was always to do most of the repairs other than the bottom panel repair between the back of the doors and in front of the rear wheel and then fit the so the door gaps are good and then weld the repair panels in place.
  9. Hello Chaps, tricky one this. I'm busy cutting and welding the crusty bits of my rear tub, I'm currently repairing the area around the body mount that is roughly in line with the back of the doors. My question is should the tabs on the mount be in line with the edge of the kick plate? I've photographed it, the silver straight edge in the pic is pressed on the side of the kick plate, as can be seen I have a gap? ( please don't laugh at my welding on the repair in the pic.....I'm doing my best!!!)
  10. Oooooh I'd like to see those pics! If anyone out there finds the article in the courier and could photograph or scan it and post it that would be great!!!
  11. Hi Colin, yes making a frame is easy it's where to fix. I wonder if the one you show has new brackets bolted/welded to the chassis triangulated back to the body mount points just above the rear dampers? I think it's quite a neat job...headrests too!!
  12. Hello, I currently have the rear tub off and have been welding both the chassis and tub, chassis is finished and I am about 3/4 way through the tub.It occurred to me today that I meant to fit some sort of rear restraint, I've had so much on I had forgotten. I have a set of inertia seat belts front a Fiat Cinqeucento that would be nice to use, the main issue appears to be where to anchor the top of the belt, I figure whilst the car is apart I could build a frame behind the seats but where might be the best place to anchor the frame? If anyone has managed this and have a design it would be good to see. Tom.
  13. Well a lot of the info in the 1st artical rings true in the old motorcycle world, I have a 1978 Triumph tiger 750 and a pair of old 350cc CZ's ( Czech ) non of these bikes like NGK. They don't seem to take too well to getting wet ( Neat petrol ) and once they have had a dousing they don't seem to recover. Wetting plugs seems to happen more in carb fed machines as it is obviously less precise compared to fuel injection, in fact both these bikes have to be tickled ( float blow overfilled ) to start. The two brands of plug that seem to shrug off the wetting are Champion and a Czech make called BRISK in fact the Brisk plugs seem indestructible!!! Brisk used to be PAL. The difference really is night and day NGK's can literally be toast in 500 miles on the CZ'S whereas the Brisks have now been in for 4 or 5 thousand miles with no issue. Also I don't buy anything from random folk on the internet so pretty sure the NGK's were not fakes. Think I'll stick to Champions. Anyone any views on using regular LM grease on the spigot bearing rather than Zinc oxide grease?
  14. Took a day off today from the endless grinding and welding of the last week and got back on a couple of mechanical jobs. Flywheel is back on, I torqued the nuts to the highest value and loctited them with the blue 435. I also started prepping the engine for it's first start in around 2 yrs, I changed the oil and filter ( morris 20/50 ), gapped and cleaned the points, removed the plugs for a clean and gap but have decided to replace them as they are ancient Unipart plugs and I did start cleaning one but as I was wire brushing a piece of the porcelain insulator broke off! and I set the valve clearances. Any plug recommendations would be great, I find Champion seem to suit my old motorcycles but they don't seem to like NGK? What I did find was the water pump was very stiff? It freed off after a bit of turning but I'm wondering if any coolant has got the bearings? maybe time for a new one to be safe? I'll fit the clutch tomorrow, Haynes says to lubricate the spigot bearing with 'zinc oxide grease', obviously I don't have any would just standard LM be fine? Not going to put the gearbox back just yet as I found a rust hole in the front tub I hadn't noticed and it will be easier to weld it up with the box out. Tom.
  15. That's a massive help Colin and really puts my mind at rest. One of my problems was I didn't have the corner of the wheel arch as a reference, when I welded in my repair I left enough metal on that edge so once I was happy about the valance fit I could match it in. It worked out nicely or nice enough to keep me happy!! I still have a bit of wiggle room and the front edge of the valance isn't quite fettled so I can get it a touch better. Your original panals do look a bit better than the repro's but there is not a great deal in it especially as they are fairly well hidden items. Once again Colin thanks for your help on this project I really appreciate it!! Tom.
  16. Yes that's exactly the measurement, No rush Colin, I have about 10 little patches to be getting along with!! Well I managed to finish the wheelarch once I'd made the decision to use the valance I have, I've slightly distorted the panel which is very annoying as I cooled each weld with my airgun.
  17. Colin I know this is a pain and don't worry if you don't want to but one more measurement would set my mind at rest! Would you be able to roughly measure the closest point ( Center point of the valance and wheel well ) of the wheel well to the valance? The more I tweak it and bolt things up the better it looks so I'm a bit happier now!! thanks, Tom.
  18. Yes Colin I think I'm being a bit optimistic to think I can buy some panals that will bolt on perfectly!!
  19. Update- I contacted James Paddock about the 1/4 panals. They were very honest and said to their knowledge there is only one supplier of these panals and they do get them returned every so often, they said the panal I have is probably the same as their panals and it would just be a case of fettleing and tidying up to get it to fit well and look good. Shame Heritage Body panals don't do Herald parts. Looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and live with them.
  20. Cheers for that Colin, to be fair the gap is better on the top of mine too. I've attached another pic showing the discrepancy between the 2 panals, I't is obvious the rear valance is a better quality item than the sides. Would anyone be able to reccomend a supplier of good quality panals? I'm convinced the sides are poor quality, as I said earlier they dictate where I bring my rear wheel arch repair too ( see pic) and I'd rather not match it into a low quality panal.
  21. Well with a clear head this morning I decided to give them another go, mainly as I need them in place to decide where the edge of my rear wheelarch repair will end as it needs to match up with the front edge of the side valance, so it's holding up that repair until I am happy with the valance. I did some fettleing and got them into place. I have a sneaking suspicion the problem may lie in the side valances, one because I have to squeeze the bumper on the rear ( yellow clamp on pic )to push it into the same form as the bumper on the side. When I then offer the chrome over rider up there is a gap between it and the bumper ( see pic ). When the rear valance is relaxed it matches the overrider better. Would anyone be able to look at how well their overriders match their bumper curve? I would rather just source some better quality side valances rather than the rear too as it is very expensive!
  22. Some of you might know I have been working on the chassis and rear tub of my Herald. My rear valances were all in a very bad way, I removed them a few years ago and bought replacements ( can't remember where from?). Well I dug them out today, It was the first time I've offered them up to the car and each other and what junk they have turned out to be! They are not even close to correct and will need a lot of bending/ adjustment and fettling to fit......very disappointing!!!! They are that bad I would consider just writing them off as a bad purchase and buy again if I could guarantee quality items. So my question is, are all off these valances these days junk or can quality items be sourced and if so where from? Thanks, Tom.
  23. I have used Waxoyl in the past but I do find it doesn't really last that well. I will give Dinitrol a call and get some advice/prices.
  24. Ok, I've used Tiger seal before so will probably stick with it. I do have access to a compressor so maybe I should look into the alternatives to waxoyl. Clive have you used Dinitrol? How did you find it?
  25. Cheers Karl, that makes sense. Do you have a sealer you have found to be good......don't worry I won't hold you to it!! Tom.
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