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Tom

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Everything posted by Tom

  1. Hello, I'm busy doing the repairs on my rear tub ( 1200 Herald conv ). I am no bodywork expert , I kind of muddle my way slowly and carefully through and generally get there in the end. I have been coating all the repairs in zinc primer asap after welding. My question is should all the new welded seams and repaired sections be coated in some kind of seam sealer? something like Tiger seal? I wondered if sealers just tended to trap moisture? Thanks,
  2. Yes I'd say just a production thing, I presume the flywheels and cranks were balanced separately? I wonder why they have 2 dowel locations on the fly wheel.....seems to be a lot of wonder whys at the moment! I just wanted to put it together how it came apart as the engine was lovely and smooth.
  3. I haven't removed it yet, can it go either way round? Why didn't they just stamp an arrow on it!!!
  4. Hello, like a plonker when I removed the I made a mark on the flywheel to ensure it was refitted in the correct place, I then proceeded to clean the flywheel and remove my mark. The flywheel appears to have 2 holes the dowell in the crank can go into. Would I be correct in assuming no.1 cylinder is timing chain end? and when this piston is TDC with both valves closed the flywheel timing marks should line up? Thanks, Tom.
  5. Bu##er I have just put it in with the word front at the front ie. front being where my feet are in the pic!
  6. OK chaps, to be fair it actually in not bad condition think I'll just clean it up, it's got a greasy film on it, maybe waxoil but it's clean enough and was being a perfectly good spring when last used. I just wondered if there was any maintenance I could do whilst it's off and accessible. I'll go down the if it ain't broke don't fix it route.
  7. Well chaps the chassis paint should be dry so the plan tomorrow is to fit the following, 1. Clutch ( I have an alignment tool ) 2. Diff ( new seals fitted ) 3. Propshaft ( New uj's and has been balanced ) 4. Spring ( really done anything to it, would it be a good idea to clean and oil it? ) 5. Driveshafts/trunnions ( new bearings, seals and uj's fitted ) Think I could muddle my way through, I have haynes and factory manuals but any pearls of wisdom from you fellas would be great. Rear tub is off so no access issues. Also I need to order some gear and diff oil, I presume regular EP90 GL4 is fine for both the box and diff, I haven't bought any straight EP90 for ages as the car has been off the road for so long!
  8. Brill Colin, when I do that I get about 135/136mm. Thanks Chap!
  9. ok Colin, I have since roughly put the panel in place with the sill roughly put in too. ( pics attached ) Could you also let me know what your gap is between the wing bottom and the sill top and also the bottom edge of the treadplate? I'm thinking it may be more sensible to do all the repairs behind this panel and all the other tub repairs, mount the tub do the door gaps and then fit this repair panel last!!
  10. Hello, now the chassis is solid and painted I intend to make a start on the rear tub. The first area I intend to address is the bottoms of the rear wings just forward of the rear wheels, I have some repair panels with a folded lip along the top edge that should allow me to slip it under the existing wing and plug weld. My wing looks like it has had many bodgy repairs in that area and the internal area will require work first, I'm sure you have seen the videos on youtube by 'jademuttley' it's the repair in part 2 of his Vitesse restoration videos. ( youtube won't allow links to be pasted into the forum? ). My problem is because of the state of this area and the fact it has been bodged in the past I'm not sure how far down the bottom edge is, I have attached a sketch of the dimension I need. It's from the folded design detail that follows the wheel arch and then runs horizontal to the bottom of the wing. I presume this should also line up with the bottom edge of the bolt on sill thingy.
  11. Blimey Pete that is a big ol chunk!!!! ..............reminds me of the 1st Spit I had in 1995, a MK3. I decided the 50p sized hole in the drivers side sill needed attention, I put a Saturday morning aside for it, as you probably know spit sills are in 3 pieces and structural and closer inspection revealed the center piece rotted pretty much it's entire length along the bottom edge. After removing the sill it was evident the edge of the floorpan was waffffer thin and 'unweldontable' I ended up cutting about 2 inches off the entire edge of the floorpan and folding my own section up and replacing the entire sill!!!! I lived near Radlett at the time and their was a Triumph specialist fairly near just off Watling St ( can't remember their name?) who fortunately had the panals in stock, I finished the welding as it got dark on the drive on Sunday evening!!! Being my only car at the time and work on Monday I'd wish I'd left it alone!!!
  12. My door bottoms look ok but I know they have filler in them because I put it there! I also have repair panals for the area just forward of the rear wheels at the bottom where they all rot, I'm wondering if it would be best to repair them with the tub off or wait until the tub is back in so I can get better door gaps at the bottom?
  13. Thanks Fellas, don't worry she'll fly with that Honda engine in!! For those interested it's from a 1976 CB200, I bought it in 1986 when I was 16!! Tough little thing, I did 47K on it before the timing chain started eating it's way through he casing, found lumps of alloy in the oil. I rebuilt the top end a few years ago and restored the the rest, just needs the motor dropping back in. My Herald will be no show car, I'm aiming for tidy, solid and usable....all my old vehicles fit into this category! Pete, my front tub is still on but I'll definitely need some advice on fitting the rear ( once I've done all the repairs!! )
  14. Ok ahebron, how you find the solid mounting? Well I have finally finish all the chassis welding, scraped off all the underseal and then attacked it with a wire wheel for 4hrs!!! I have undercoated it in Dacrylate zinc rich primer and will treat it to a couple of coats of Frost satin chassis black tomorrow........................only took me 8yrs!!!! Driveshafts, trunnions and diff back together too!!!
  15. Judging on what Pete said earlier would I be a bit silly cutting the welds on the previously fitted rear outrigger to raise the end ( Body mount hole end ) by approx 5mm? It is not welded at the top( bodged ) , which I will do, so I can assume the outrigger was fitted with the body on so maybe the body slumped slightly when the old one was rotten/removed and the chimps that fitted it didn't take this into account when fitting the new one?....who knows?
  16. Yes Pete, once things get this old and wonky if it looks right it is right! Colin, I have all that to look forward to!! Got plenty of welding left until then however! Then many hours cleaning as much of the rancid underseal and then more hours with a wire wheel on the drill. The plan is then to paint all the underside of the rear tub and the chassis from the front body split onwards with zinc rich primer overtopped with some Frosts satin black chassis paint. I also plan to inject plenty of waxoyl or similiar...any suggestions? ( I remember my grandad pumping the old engine oil into the chassis of our old 1200 saloon when I was a nipper!! ) It will look hilarious from the underside, the rear half of the car will look restored and front not!! I just know if I took the rest of the car to bits it would never get finished!!!!
  17. Blimey Pete, maybe I'm getting a little excited! Anyhow it gets better, I was taking one of my levels from an inaccurate source. My chassis has had a replacement rear outrigger, the other is original. One of the levels I took was from the outer body mount ( rear out rigger ) to the other outer body mount, I had 2 parallels on the mount point and a long accurate aluminium extrusion resting on it with a spirit level on it. Unbeknownst to me the replaced outrigger was fitted low causing my levels at the rear to be incorrect. When I level the rear of the chassis using the factory fitted outrigger ( parallel on outer point, and both main chassis beams ) everything levels up beautifully including the outer ends of the boot outriggers. Jeeze, I might sleep tonight!!!
  18. Hello, being doing some welding on my Herald chassis around the diff area. Using a spirit level I created two points at the front that were level. I then supported the chassis at the front and used a spirit level again to check between the main chassis rails at various points in front and behind the sump to ensure the chassis was sitting as level as possible. I then supported the chassis at the rear just in front of the front diff mounting points, again using a spirit level to ensure the front and rear of the chassis were sitting level to each ( as much as possible given the situation. I then put the spirit level on the rear tub top mounting points and attempted to keep that as level as poss when removing metal and welding. The problem is I may not have fully achieved my goal.....I don't know when it happened but the drivers side tub mounting point is 2mm lower than passenger side making the ends of the boot supports different by 3mm. ( in the same direction ) Very difficult to work out where the problem lies as it may be an error caused by slight errors in my supporting technique. Which also means there may not be too much of a problem at all? I tried to support the weld areas as much as possible to avoid movement, maybe the chassis had already moved slightly due to weakness caused by the corrosion, I did remove some grim repairs! Also the factory manual gives you chassis dimensions and checking points etc. but no tolerance ie plus/minus. So do I release my welds, I think I can see where the error may have been made ( a weld just behind the front diff mounting, I had to take quite a bit of metal from there and it may have sagged slightly ) and then reset the the the the level of of the rear tub mounts which would also bring in the boot outriggers up too as they appear to be the originals so should be a good reference. Bu**er!!
  19. Thanks fellas, puts my mind at rest. I can't detect any radial/bearing play just a little bit of waggle. The box was always quiet and shifted smoothly so hopefully it's a goodie.
  20. Yes, much like the inner needle bearing on the drive shafts it's more of a support. One more question, is it normal for the splined input shaft to have a little bit of up/down play in it? ie. It can be waggled slightly. Tom.
  21. Don't worry Pete the first hubnut has been well and truly 'done friggin up'!!!!! Now for the second one!
  22. Yes Frog I'm going to rely on the hub pushing the bearing into the correct location, It also sets the outer seal into the correct position on the hub seal surface. Yes the inner seal, I ummed and ahhhed over fitting it 'backwards' but I figured it was more to allow excess grease out when regreasing and wanting it to squirt out the inner side rather than brakes side. Also as you said it makes an effective water seal that way.
  23. I've attached a couple of pics of mine. If anyone has any shafts around and could measure the distance between either the flange that the drum sits on to the end of the shaft or to the bearing ( see pics ) that would be great. Factory dims seem way off!! Drum doesn't catch on the backplate yet but as can be seen in pic there is still a gap at the flinger and where the flange pushes into the seal.
  24. Good point Johny, still a fairly unique way of doing things.
  25. OK Pete, good to see you have had similar issues with those dims. I'll move it all around until it lines up. What had never occurred to me is the trunnion is not actually solidly located on the shaft, it relies entirely on the friction between the inner ball race and the shaft to keep it in place! The whole rear end design is very odd but it seems to work!
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