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Everything posted by 1969Mk3Spitfire

  1. Can you, or Uncle Pete, please share a bit more detail, please? How high? Wheels off the ground? Start from cold with rad cap removed? Run until thermostat opens? Does it need any help by burping any hoses? Any concern over engine lubrication at such an angle? Appreciate the help.
  2. I replaced the motor in my Spitfire. New, original are hard to find and expensive but I bought a used one from Canley. It’s a lot of fun to remove the box so worth taking the opportunity to clean and pressure test the heat exchanger and clean the valve. Mine will demist a fogged windscreen on a rainy day but I can’t imagine it would be comfortable on a cold winters day. Presumably, we were all more hardy fifty years ago.
  3. Seems like sage advice related to 50+ year old automotive engineering technology, thanks. Took the car out for a drive earlier today. Almost identical route and conditions to Monday. No over run when I turned-off the key. Is day-to-day variation one of the appeals of the marque 😃
  4. @johny - interesting thought to let it idle a while before turning off. Not tried it but will. Thanks also for commenting upon the state of the plug. To be honest, I’m delighted that Nos 1 and 4 looked so similar. In 1976, when I last has a Spitfire, tinkering with the carbs was a weekly event. My current car seems more stable. Over run is not really a big issue and it only does it intermittently. I suspect low grade fuel is the biggest culprit. Read the comments re timing with interest. I don’t think I’ll touch it as it runs fairly well. It sounds like getting the timing right is as much an art as a science so I’ll leave well alone. @johnD - it is, if course, we’ll trodden territory and before posting I tried to use the search function but to no avail. It’s always good to hear anecdotes from those with lots of experience and a will to share.
  5. Many thanks to you all, much appreciated. I'll certainly look at Millers VSPe additive. The plugs are NGK BP6ES and No 1 and No 4 probably look a tad lean. Picture attached. I've not checked the timing and I'd appreciate any tips. Check static or dynamic? It doesn't look easy (or safe) to get a strobe close-in. Haynes says 6 deg BTDC, static.
  6. Occasionally, not always, my engine will run-on (for only 1 rev) after ignition is turned off. The engine is not above normal hot when it does this. There isn’t (shouldn’t be) any carbon build up in carbs nor combustion chamber. I use normal unleaded with additive. Idle is just under 1000 rpm, smooth running. Acceleration and running is normal. I don’t drive it hard. I’ve not yet checked ignition timing. Likely culprit?
  7. Some good tips, thanks. I bought a replacement switch last year but haven’t as yet fitted it. My “second pull” position didn’t work to illuminate the instrument panel but there’s a spare spade terminal on the switch to turn it into “one pull” function. I think I’ll go and spray the plastic knob with WD40 to give it plenty of time to soak before I get round to replacing it. I’m finding that once the car is going well, I’d rather drive it than tinker with it. 😀
  8. Thanks for the replies. I’ve had a quick look and I don’t think that the rubber cones are the issue. The car is now in the garage so I’ll drive it again tomorrow. It’s a strange rattle with sudden onset. Not heard it before but it sounds like something is about to fall off. To eliminate the bonnet latch, I could drive it with it unlocked to see if the rattle persists.
  9. My Mk3 Spitfire has developed a rapid onset rattle. Thanks to the dreadful state of our roads, it sounds like an exhaust clamp or bumper over rider is lose and it rattles as I drive over potholes. I’ve had each corner in the air and been underneath the car but can’t pinpoint the source using my palm to hit every conceivable component. My only suspect is the offside bonnet catch. A bang on the near side catch is dull but the offside one definitely rattles. Adjustment looks like three screws on the catch and two bolts on the body attachment feature. Do catches have a reputation for rattling? Any guidance or advice to adjust? Any other likely suspects that I may have missed? Many thanks.
  10. We had a run out in on Bank Holiday Monday but had to curtail it due to a float chamber / jet pipe fuel leak. Now fixed (but it’s caused me to lose a bit of confidence in the car, sadly), met up with two Lotus owning pals this morning. I stopped on the A50 to see if I could offer any help to a Mk3 GT6 with bonnet up at the side of the road (checking a low oil pressure concern) and saw a very nice Herald driving through the centre of Lymm village. Nice to see the old bangers out, enjoying the lovely weather.
  11. Thanks, Pete, I replaced the o ring this morning. A fiddly job but there now appears to be a dry seal after a 10 mile run out. My main concern now is to try to understand what caused it to leak? There’s nothing obvious amiss. I don’t like the concept of “hand tight” and I’m concerned that if it’s leaked once, what’s to stop it leaking again. I’d like to understand why it leaked and what I can do to ensure that it doesn’t do it again. Any suggestions? Appreciate your help and advice.
  12. Been for a drive today and had to pull-over to investigate a petrol smell. Car has run well since last summer and has done around 100 miles only this season.The rear float chamber bottom seal to jet pipe was leaking. I managed to improve it at the roadside and limp home. At home I removed the jet pipe, nut, washer and o ring and all look ok. I pushed the o ring back in place, pushed and held the nut up the pipe, pushed the washer over the pipe end and re-installed. I've read that "the more you tighten the nut, the more its guaranteed to leak" so its quarter turn beyond hand tight. I did not remove the jet. I can't now make it seal. Regarding what may have caused the leak, don't know if it's relevant but the rear float chamber seems to have more rubber compliance than the forward chamber. Any helpful hints and tips to form a seal? Thanks in anticipation. .......car is Mk3 Spitfire with original twin SUs.
  13. I have fond memories of Canley, but only as a component supplier making visits to see the Ride and Handling engineers in the late 1970’s. I would thoroughly enjoy reading its history.
  14. Am I allowed to say “utter monstrosity” I’d have sleepless nights if that was in my garage 🤭 Each to their own.
  15. My Autobooks manual doesn’t mention jacking the corner but I can see it helping, thanks for the tip. I’ve only recently had the joy of oiling with a grease gun so I’ll save your sage advice until next season 😀
  16. Thanks, Doug, Presumably, the one you have turns the Venturi through 90 degrees for side draught, the picture shows a downdraught arrangement? I like the one in the Amazon link but it’s length would foul the fuel pipes.
  17. I probably understated it. It works well enough and I feel confident that the carb balance is satisfactory. I’d like a buy a more robust product, made to a higher grade specification. My Gunsons is 45 years old and is showing it. The plastic/rubber cups have aged. The flexible tube isn’t very flexible and the paper scale glued to the Venturi is starting to lift. None of these issue is terminal but as an avid buyer of tools, I’d like a new one. I’m mindful that access to the carbs is restricted by the fuel pipe running across the orifices, the small width of the Gunsons cups fit well into the space available. Maybe I should return it to Gunsons museum, unless someone has one older?
  18. I bought a Gunsons Carbalancer in 1976. It came down from the loft a little over a year ago and has been pressed into service again several times since. It works reasonably well and I prefer some form of meter compared to listening via a tube etc. Carbs are SU HS2. The commonly available STE style seems to have min dia rubber cone of 40mm which is too big for my carbs. What do other members use? Pros and cons? Thanks for sharing experiences.
  19. You probably didn’t over-pay. Firstly, it’s only money and secondly, just think of the hours of pleasure it’s already given you in tinker time. I expect that driving it puts a huge smile on your face, too. That’s all priceless. You are not alone. As a one year old nostalgic newbie myself, I can vouch for the wealth of expertise given so willingly from always helpful forum members.
  20. I recently acquired a digital meter that includes a dwell function. Does anyone use dwell as a means to set the points? Any experience to share? What is the dwell spec for the 1296 FD engine? Thanks
  21. I've now obtained three new quotes. Peter James and LH are very similar and a few pounds less than my current (panel) provider. Classic Line seems to be offering best value, including UK and Europe Breakdown Assistance. Thanks, everyone.
  22. Thanks, Doug, My car is insured with one of the panel and £40 is their additional premium for adding Breakdown Recovery at the time of renewal. And, yes, it is almost 50% more than the premium, that’s why I’m asking if there are better (lower cost) alternatives.
  23. Not sure where best to post this query......... I’ve never purchased Breakdown Recovery / Roadside Assistance cover but I’m starting to think that it may be a good idea, especially as I’d like to venture out a little more in my Mk3 Spitfire this coming season. My insurance is due anytime soon and it would be pretty straightforward to add cover for an additional £40, or thereabouts. Are there other/better options?
  24. It's all getting very confusing, I didn't realise that there were so many variants of a similar thing. Mine, Colin, is similar to the one on the right in your picture. The Paddock version has an external primer, mine doesn't. Haven't as yet found a source for square section o-rings. I may try a smear of Hylomar or maybe a RTV and wait, fingers crossed, for a return of car shows during the summer. Many thanks to all who have posted help, much appreciated.
  25. Congratulations on your purchase. I broke a 45 year hiatus last year by buying a Mk3. I believe that the car was originally fitted with 155SR13 tyres on 4.5J rims. These have a nominal diameter of 578mm. 185/70 will mount on a 4.5J rim but it has a nominal diameter of 590mm. 185/60 is not recommended for 4.5J rim. 5 inch is the minimum. Nominal diameter is 552mm. Dimensions from ETRTO data book. The Spitfire steering and suspension was not designed for lower profile tyre technology. If it were my car, I’d remove them.
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