essjaycarp

Take the door glass out first, then unscrew fixing bots for whole of quarter light. I took the whole unit out of the car to do it. Takes a bit of time, but just do it. Its not that bad and you learn a bit more about the car.

Thanks Pete for the input I will take the car out again tomorrow and see what happens Cheers Steve

Forgot to say as I was broken down an MG drove past with it two owner laughing and pointing at me. I had my two small kiddies with me. Several modern cars stopped to help me, and even offer to drive us home. and a couple of bikers. I was really miffed by the MG owner. We are all classic enthusiasts, and I would have stopped for them if I was driving by in my Vit and seen if they were OK. Oh well. Triumph MG war back on now then...ha

Hi All Vitesse Mk 2 back on the road after eight years. Carbs cleaned , retuned by a "specialist" over winter so I know the problem I have today is nothing to do with sticking needle jet, or clogged up float chamber. The car runs on 150 CD carbs, I have sports exhaust manifold, and heat shields under carbs the needles are the same that were on the car for the last 15 years, so nothing has changed. The olny thing that has changed is the carb set up. they had to be stripped and retuned over winter. Today on a warm day and the cars FIRST run out in eight years, it started to get lumpy when hot, I pulled up at a road junction after an hour of driving and the car cut out as I slowed down at a junction, I heard if engine dropping off as I slowed down at the junction, I blipped the accelerator, but it just conked out on me. The symptoms seemed the same as what I had years ago, overheating of carb float chamber, and evap of fuel, but I rectified this problem and it was fine for many years after that It would turn over but not fire up. However after 20 mins of allowing car to cool down it restarted. Any ideas? This used to be a problem a decade ago before I fitted the heat shields on the bottom of the car and put it down to fuel evaporation from the float chambers. Today a similar scenario occurred, could it be the carbs not set up right, running too lean / rich? It was a hot day I got home with the car ran it to running temp, and stopped started the car several times and it seemed OK, but I want to be 100% that I do not have a problem By the way the car is fitted with electronic ignition ( reliable) and a Kenlowe fan that is turning on at the right temp etc so that seems to be fine Any help appreciated Thank you Steve

Thanks Colin. A good idea. It is a part of the fitting I dread.

Hi I need to pop rivet on the clips that hold on the chrome trim /strips along the body of the Vitesse. I drilled the old clips out before the paint was applied. I find the riveting process very brutal on new paint. Is there any other way of attaching the clips to the bodywork rather than using the pop rivet gun. I hate the force of the pop rivet gun and the amount of compression is crazy. It also jumps at end when the shaft snaps. I did it in the past and it caused cracks in parts of the paint My paint is celly. Lots of layers. Thanks Steve

Great work John and a lovely big work area. It the other full working GT6 yours also? I used to have a late GT6, in white. Would love to own another, to be a brother to my Vitesse.

Hi John I meant keeping an eye on how I got on! Regards Steve

Thanks all, cheers John for keeping on how I got on. MOT passed, now off SORN, so can get her back on road, Kind regards Steve

sorry for very late update. I had put too heavy an oil in dash pots and was told I had put the back plates of the K and N filters on the wrong carb. It appears they are handed, so when I put it on the wrong carb it was blocking off part of the inlet or some part of the carb that needed to be open. That was causing the fuel to pour out of the last carb in the line. The pistons in the carbs could not rise on acceleration due to the V heavy oil I had put in the dash pots. Very odd that I had put the backplates on wrong from the air filters. I was not aware that they were handed to the RH LH carb or the fact that they could block of passage wages in the front face of the carb.

Dear all, I appreciate all your responses which will help me in the future. I disconnected bullet connectors, took bulbs out, loosened off side light/indicator body under front of bonnet. I followed the wiring diagram, and looked at as many connection points as I could. I re looked at flasher unit and switch. I put it back together and all worked fine. I assume it was a connection problem or earthing problem . It was strange that the red/green wire was causing the problem. I would have liked to actually pinpoint it, but working through it all rectified the problem. Once again, many thanks for the useful information you all posted to help me. Steve

Hi all VITESSE MK 2 The front left hand side indicator is not flashing. MOT in the morning,. Looking at the Vitesse Mk 2 wiring diagram and what I can see in the wires that run along the top of the grill from one side light/indicator light to the other is fed by one wire from the loom that is Green/ red in colour, the front RH side is fed from the loom by a wire Green/white in colour. This is the feed for the indicators at front of car. All other indicators lights are flashing correctly, with only the front left indicator showing the fault. The flasher unit is clicking fine under dash, but does not click properly when you flick indicator stalk to the turn left position. To try to locate problem I have switched the feed from the loom ( at front of grill , running between the front indicators) swapping each to the other front flasher/side light. When I swap the feeds over to the opposing indicator light he problem is transferred now over to RH side indicator. Now the LH indicator is working and flashing fine as are the rear ones, but the front indicator light being fed from the RED/GREEN wire is now showing the fault. So I assume this has proven that both front indicator bulbs work. It has proven the fault is linked to the GREEN/RED wire feed to the LH Front Indicator bulb, but I have no clue how to proceed now. I assume as all other 3 indicators work fine then there is not a problem with the flasher unit. Also when the feed is swapped over on the front indicators the side that was working does not work and vice versa The fault shows itself as a diminishing clicking in the flasher unit under dash, and believe it or not the indicator bulb does not illuminate, but the side light tiny bulb blinks. Swapping over the feed to the opposite side by switching Red/Green for Green /White, the identical problem is transferred now to the opposite side, and the one that originally had the fault works fine. Any ideas please? I am baffled now and a bit disappointed I cannot solve it!! HELP

Thanks all I have sparks from HT leads Sparks from coil all timed ok : Static timing Fuel evident on plugs so the vacuum must be OK. Now it hurts but had to send car off as I had done all I could do. I even put new dizzy cap on and new rotor arm just in case. The guy feels I may have affected the pistons capabilits to rise up in the carb bodies as I used oil that was very thick and heavy. This is his starting point on getting the engine to run. I will report back on the full solution when the car comes back to me. I had done all I could do and still could not get it to fire up: static timing OK, all HT leads on in correct order to correct cylinders, fuel being pumped, fuel in carbs, fuel seemed to be evident on plugs, sparks at all HT leads and coil producing sparks too.

Hi , thanks for the replies ( the car was stood in garage for 7 years and some damp present in last 18 months when car went to rural indoor location) I cleaned up all contacts in control box and it seems to be ok now. After trying to start it , the clicking has stopped and the ammeter is no longer jumping around. However the car will not fire up now! The fuses all seem ok New petrol now out of a cannister to try to get it started. Unleaded fuel with octane booster. Carbs stripped and no sticking needle valve, it functions fine with the floats floating as they should and closing off the needle valve Float height set to 19mm as per manual. Tappets all reset from cold. ( 7 years of cold!) Coolant system re done and new water pump. Mechanical pump pushing fuel into carbs. Carbs filling up with fuel Spark from HT leads Spark from coil to distributor, Distributor cap spot on Plug elecrode gaps reset and cleaned Seems to be a vacuum to draw fuel into cylindrs as the plugs are getting wet with fuel BUT it will not fire up. It is as if I had taken the dizzy off and refitted it 180 degrees out. But it worked when it went to bed 7 years ago! The car did fire up and run the other day for around a minute, but after I turned it off and it will not start again Starter motor working and cranking engine : not a high torque one, just the standard spec starter motor. Battery new Ran it flat turning car over but had jump leads on hand. SO I have fuel going in Fuel seems to be in cylinders, sparks are present from spark plugs, pump is pushing fuel fine but not firing. I have electronic ignition fitted, I do not know how to check this but would assume as the car ran for a short period, although very lumpy, then the electronic ignition was ok? PLEASE HELP. I thought I had this nailed, but I am struggling... Thank you thanks for the replies I cleaned up all contacts in control box and it seems to be ok now. After trying to start it , the clicking has stopped and the ammeter is no longer jumping around. However the car will not fire up now! The fuses all seem ok

I have full sports system fitted with K and Ns. All I did was fit a new jet kit and got richer needles for the 150 Strombergs. All that changed was the needle spec. I got it running by earm then had the final adjustment done at TSSC International when it was at Stafford.

It was a new battery ten days ago. Could be no good though? I do not have a multimeter to test it

Hi all I have been trying to get the Vitesse back on the road after 7 years. On starting up the ammeter jumped around strangely and a clicking noise at regular 2 second intervals could be hard from the control box. The Ameter glass on the dash misted up also. I have not tinkered with wiring and is all as it was when I rested the car up. The car did start but was eratic and all over the place, but the carbs were blocked too, so I am just working on the needle valves and float chambers on the car at the moment. I just wanted to see if anybody has any input on what I see could be an electrical problem. Many thanks