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RichardS

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Everything posted by RichardS

  1. Just to confirm that the service from Rimmers was excellent and the replacement steering bush arrived first thing yesterday morning. It fitted perfectly and the car is now back on the road and I will be taking her to a local car show this afternoon. Richard
  2. That's very kind of you, Roger. I'm hoping that the replacement from Rimmers will arrive tomorrow and that this one will be the correct size but I'll let you know whether it's going to fit as soon as it arrives. I'll be in contact. Thanks Richard
  3. Thanks Roger I don't have a reamer but if the new one that is now being sent is as tight as the ruined one, I will definitely find a way to increase the internal diameter before fitting it. Richard
  4. This morning the two new steering bushes arrived for my GT6 from Rimmers. I went for the old style rubber bush as the newer poly version is out of stock. One fitted perfectly onto the shaft but the other felt much too tight and simply getting the shaft to slide into it required a huge amount of force. As soon as I fitted and turned the steering wheel it just ripped off the rubber locating nubs and now the entire bush is simply rotating in the outer casing. If the locating nubs had not ripped off the steering would have been mightly stiff. It's fine now but totally useless as the rubber will probably last 100 miles before it is completely shot! I've requested a replacement form Rimmers but it looks as if this weekends car show will be a no-show. 🙁 Richard
  5. My plan is not to refit the electric fan if I can possibly avoid it, although until we get some really hot weather I won't actually know. If I do have to remount the fan, I will make up some proper brackets rather than use those plastic ties. Rixhard
  6. Another update ..... I actually collected the radiator on Monday as the guy managed to do the re-core a bit sooner than expected. Before the re-core, there was a 3mm gap at both the front and the back of the frame between the frame and the core. They managed to fit in a bigger core which, I think has an extra row of tubes or perhaps just larger tubes, so that although the rad is the same size, both gaps are now gone. They also said that the old core was rather slimy and messy but not actually blocked as far as they could tell. I had drained the radiator into my large pan without losing any coolant but when I came to pour in back in I was about 700 mls short of coolant which I had to top up. I think this is due to the extra capacity of the new core. Anyway, I took it for a high speed run this afternoon and then let it idle for 10 minutes or so and the temperature did not even reach 80 degrees which suggests that the thermostat was opening and closing and the cooling capacity was never actually reached. The issue could well be that it is around 8 degrees cooler today than it was the last run but we seem to be heading in the right direction. Richard
  7. An update. I took my rad to Motorads in Redditch http://www.motoradsonline.co.uk/ which was recommended by my Son. Andy, the chap on the desk, was extremely helpful and asked if I could wait whilst he took it off for some quick testing. When he came back he said that it was in pretty good condition and, although it was not operating at 100%, he was used to seeing far worse and would be surprised if the rad was the only issue. We then talked about all the other work I had done and the symptom that whilst the car was moving it all seemed OK but after I came to a halt the temp started to creep up. His view was that I had done what was needed and that he also agreed that the rad now seemed to be the weakest link in the chain. I did tell him that the Kenlowe did keep the temp down but he stated that they did not recommend after market fans and would not fit them because they caused other problems which, at this stage, he did not elaborate. His view was that with my cowling in place, an electric fan should not be required. By this stage, Andy seemed so reluctant to actually accept the business that I was beginning to wonder if they had too much work on. Anyway, once we had reviewed all the options, he agreed to recore the rad but said that they were fairly busy so it would take a while. Here we go, I thought, so how long I asked. About a week he replied! Good grief .... I was thinking in months! At this stage another chap walked in with a rad from a TR4 which was also fitted with a Kenlowe still in place. He said it seemed to have suddenly started leaking and could Andy take a look. Andy did that whilst me and the TR4 man chatted. Andy explained that the plastic tie fittings for the electric fan had vibrated against the core and worn it through and it was now weeping. He said that they get a lot of rads in with exactly this problem which is why they do not fit fans using the plastic ties and that he could repair the leak but would give it back without the fan fitted as they did not keep any of the ties and the owner would have to re-fit it himself. Andy advised that he should get some brackets fabricated if he really wanted to retain the fan. Anyway, there's quite a bit to think about there. I'll soon be £250 lighter so let's hope that it does the trick. Richard
  8. Indeed so. I checked the input hose and the output hose with my hand when the car was idling after my test run and the temperatures are too close which is why the temperature continues to creep upwards. I've decided to speak to the specialist rad company used by the restorers that my Son works for and see what they can do. I'll let the forum know what they suggest. Richard
  9. Thanks Ian. I wondered why the rad has two inlet tubes as I've never seen anything like that. If it is simply to get more flow into the rad then I agree with you that it suggests an element of desperation by the Triumph engineers. I will knock up a front cowling as you and others have suggested. The problem with the rear cowling is that the crankshaft axis is not actually in the centre of the rad but set over to the nearside. I don't understand why this is the case but it does mean that there is some "wasted" matrix on the offside. The limiting factor for a simple circular cowling design is the clearance to the water pump boss. I measured it all very carefully and have ended up with a clearance of about 3mm to the inner section boss. To cover the wasted matrix and still avoid the water pump would require a considerably more complicated fabrication. Richard
  10. Yes, I agree that people who remove the thermostat in order to cure an overheating problem are failing to understand the physics involved. However, where there is no thermostat fitted at all, one might as well fit the cooler range variant. The radiator does appear to have rather "coarse" horizontal fins rather than the the finer vertical ones that I'm more used to seeing. Is it possible to have the existing rad re-cored with the finer fins etc or is it cheaper to just buy a new rad built to a better design if such a thing is even available? Richard
  11. The rad appears to be fairly new and appears to be getting hot across its entire surface. Unfortunately, unlike most other rads I've worked on, the top of the matrix is not really visible. I've seen rads in the past where you can actually see that some tubes are blocked. It might be the case that the rad itself needs to be overhauled but, to be honest, the only costs so far are my time and I don't mind that but if these cost-free mods don't do the trick then I'll remove the rad again. I could try pouring diluted hydrochloric acid into the inverted rad as that's something that seemed to make an improvement when I tried it in the 1970's but it's not without it's implications and might still not clear blocked tubes. Richard
  12. Thanks to those who have provided details of the forward cowling. I will be able to fabricate something similar and possibly even more extended with the sheet I have left over from the fan cowling. I realise that it's more of a forward movement thing but, thinking about it, if the car arrives at a traffic jam with a lower temperature of coolant then it should provide a bit more headroom for the time at idle in the jam. Richard
  13. Yes, the Kenlowe does have its own casing/cowling but I've removed the electric fan so the cowling has now gone. Richard
  14. Thanks to all for the helpful comments. When I got the car it had no thermostat fitted and a lot of blockages in the cooling system. I fitted the lower temp option thermostat which I think was 75 degree and have drained and back-flushed the system several times. I dug out some total blockages with long pieces of stiff wire! All the passages now seem to be clear and water pours out of every spigot and the block drain. When I fully drained it yesterday there was no crud at all but I still flushed through with the hose pipe so I'm confident that the system is clear. I do not have any cowling in front of the radiator. Perhaps that was removed to fit the electric fan? As has been pointed out, a front cowling would probably only affect cooling whilst moving but if anyone has a photo of what I'm missing I would be very interested. With a 75 degree thermostat, I would expect the gauge to stabilise in the lowish 80's if the system if the cooling is able to keep pace with heat being generated and, sure enough, that seems to happen now as long as the car is moving. I suppose that I'm used to modern cars which run at the same mid-range temp under every condition. I have a V8 Jaguar which only has electric fans and you can leave it all day at idle and the fans will never even start as the capacity of the massive radiator is able to dissipate all the heat being produced by the engine without any forced airflow. The GT6 is clearly a very long way from that level of cooling performance but I was hoping that my ducting would maintain the lowish-80's equilibrium position. The number plate is partly covering the air intake but, as with the front cowling, that's presumably not affecting the stationary situation? I can see that I will need to do some more testing. I didn't try it today but I suspect that if I had turned on the heater and possibly the blower the extra cooling might well have pulled it back down although in today's weather that would not be a pleasant experience. I used to have a 1960's Vauxhall Victor and that used to overheat in the summer so I disconnected the air duct pipes so it would blow hot air into the engine bay and that always kept the temp within the normal range. However, that's not an option with the Triumph because the matrix and blower are in the cabin rather than in the engine bay. I'll report back when I've done some more testing on a longer run. Thanks to all Richard
  15. My GT6, as purchased last year, was fitted with a blue plastic 8 blade fan and a Kenlowe electric fan but had no cowling of any sort on the back of the rad. The engine also has a high-performance cam fitted by the previous owner so I suspect it is generating a little more heat than standard. I fitted a lower temp thermostat and an accurate temperature gauge and found that on every trip, even in cool weather, after a few minutes at dual-carriageway speeds it was necessary to turn on the electric fan as the temp gauge only remained at the stable thermostat-controlled temp of about 83 for a few minutes in hot weather and a bit longer in cool weather. I was sure that the engine fan was not working efficiently as it was well away from the rad and was not being helped by the electric fan when it was not turned on. I have therefore fired up the MIG and produced the cowling shown in the photos which totally encloses the fan. As soon as I started the engine I could see that something had changed because the electric fan blades started spinning as a result of the airflow. The electric fan did not do this before I fitted the cowling so I was feeling positive and went for a drive with the electric fan still in place. This was yesterday and today so high 20's around here. Things were better and as long as the car was travelling at 60 or 70 the temperature held at 83 but once I turned off the dual carriageway the temperature started to creep up and turning the Kenlowe on brought it back down which suggests that the system was at its limit. I removed the Kenlowe and tried again today. The results are much better in that during the entire run the temp was stable at 83. However, I did not meet any traffic jams so was never stationary so when I arrived home I just let the engine idle to see what happens. Sure enough, after about 5 minutes the temp started to creep up again and reached 90 after 10 minutes before I switched it off. I was hoping that it would hold a steady 83 at idle even after a good run in hot weather but it seems not to be. Any advice about whether I am striving for the impossible would be helpful, along with any further ideas. Thanks Richard
  16. That's interesting. I'll have a look through the "cooling" threads. I've cleared a huge amount of crud from the coolant pipes by back-flushing the entire system from the back of the block and rodded out some waterways which were completely blocked. At the moment the heating is such that it appears to hold steady during this hot spell if the heater valve is open so I feel it's not far away from being competent ..... but as soon as I shut the heater valve (which is essentially if one is to avoid heatstroke!) the temperature starts to creep up. Maybe that's just how it is. Richard
  17. You're right about that Nigel. I still can't leave stuff along until I know exactly how it works. It drives my Wife mad as she thinks I should just accept that if stuff works, it works. 😊 However, I did use white spirit as that seems a bit less volatile than petrol but I did use a long pipe just to be on the safer side. I'm still going to make that visit once I'm sure that she can make a longish journey without problems. The one problem I still have is during this hot weather I can see that the cooling system will not hold steady at 85 degrees as it does in cooler weather. She's not exactly overheating but , to my mind, the performance of the cooling system should not be so marginal that ambient temperature affects the cooling ability, although I might be on a losing battle with this. Richard
  18. Right .... in the interests of science I've conducted a few experiments with surprising results! I took a new filter exactly the same as the ones I have fitted. There is no dip tube in these simple filters. The entry aperture is in the very bottom of the cylinder and the exit aperture is in the very top. I attached a clear plastic tube to the exit spigot so I could suck, and, with the filter held vertically, dipped the bottom spigot into white spirit. I then began to suck gently and the liquid started to rise in the cylinder. However, the filter acts like a wick and you can see the liquid wicking up in the filter material ahead of the level of the liquid. By the time the level of liquid gets about half way up the filter, the wick level has reached the top of the filter and, as soon as that happens, liquid starts to rise up the exit spigot and into the clear tubing. It seems to defy logic but it is what it is. Inside the cone of filter material, it must be full of liquid even though the actual level of liquid outside the cone is only halfway up the container or lower. It doesn't matter how hard I suck now. The level stays at about half way in the cylinder and liquid continues to exit from the top. A mouthful of the stuff now becomes a clear and present danger! The really surprising thing is that if I stop sucking and just leave the end of the plastic tube in the air and leave the bottom end of the entry spigot in the liquid, the level stays the same in the filter i.e. the liquid does not run out even though the top end is at atmospheric pressure. What is more, if I lift the end of the entry spigot out above the liquid, nothing different happens. The filter just sits there half full of liquid. The filter material acts like a non-return valve which I never expected. I can obviously blow the liquid out quite easily but, now that the filter is wet, when I start to suck again the liquid starts to come up the exit pipe almost as soon as the liquid touches the bottom of the filter material. It is now behaving exactly as in my photo above. I can tip the filter right over on its side or leave it vertical but it makes no difference .... as soon as the liquid reaches the filter material it starts to exit from the top. However, this doesn't work the other way. If I reverse the filter the other way up and such through the bottom end, then the level rises right to the top of the housing before it starts to appear in the plastic tube. If I stop the suction, the liquid simply runs out of the filter as you would expect and it drains completely. The filter material seems to behave differently in each direction. If you want the filter housing to be full, the only way to achieve it appears to be to mount the housing the wrong way round. In theory, I guess in would be possible to fill the housing inverted and then quickly connect it up the right way around whilst it's still full. However, those bubbles which seems to come into my filter from the bottom with the new fuel would presumably just re-establish the air gap again? Anyway, where does that leave us? I suppose with the confirmation that having the petrol near the bottom of the filter housing is not an issue as the inside of the filter cone is full of fuel which is why the engine never seems to suck that air bubble through into the float chambers. I'm still non the wiser about where the bubbles in my incoming fuel are coming from. The research will continue! 😉 Richard
  19. I did look at the old filter and couldn't see a dip pipe. However, I'll go and have another look. Richard
  20. Is there a way of doing that? You could do it will my old British motorbikes as they had a tickler but I didn't think that Strombergs had such a device unless simply opening the choke valve on the side of the carb will do it? Richard
  21. It's been driving me mad ever since we bought the car, so much so that I changed the filter in a bid to put an end to it. 😕 We were both trained in chemistry/physics and there must be a scientific answer to this conundrum but I'm damned if I can work it out. Richard
  22. I did wonder that, but surely the vapour would be sucked through the pump along with the fuel and the air gap would clear? When I disconnect the pipe at the top of the filter, it's fuel that comes out because of the height of fuel in the tank. Why does the vapour not come out first followed by the fuel? There must be an answer to this, surely? Richard
  23. It is almost vertical but the air gap only vanishes when the car is left standing and then appears again as soon as the engine starts. I did try holding it both vertically and horizontally with the engine running but it made no difference. I can't believe that so much air is being sucked in from one of the four joints hose before the filter (it can't be due to anything after the filter) but that petrol will not leak out. Petrol is famed for finding the tiniest crevice to squeeze through that there would have to be some weeping at least but I checked the whole line and can't find anything at all. I just can't figure it out. Richard
  24. The photo was taken with the engine off, although it had been running a few seconds earlier and it looked exactly the same when it was running. The fuel tank is actually full at the moment so the level is higher than the filter assembly. Any siphoning would actually serve to fill the filter rather than the other way around, although it can't actually do that because it's a sealed system, of course. Richard
  25. Another puzzling issue with my GT6. All advice welcome. 🙂 I don't think that this is actually affecting the running of the car but it just doesn't seem right. The photo below shows the filter on my engine. This is a new one which I fitted a week ago because the original one was always full of air so I thought that it was faulty. However, as you can see the new one behaves exactly the same as the old one! You can see that the fuel only just covers the bottom of the filter, even though the filter outlet is right at the top of the filter and there is no dip--tube inside it. This photo was taken after a run yesterday. Occasionally, after the car has been left unused for a few days, the fuel level does creep up inside the housing and almost reaches the top. However, if I manually operate the fuel pump, then bubbles of air (I assume it's air?) come in at the bottom and the fuel level in the filter rapidly drops down again. Similarly, if the level has crept up, once the engine starts, more bubbles come in and the fuel level always ends up right at the bottom again. This happens whether the tank is full or empty, and when it's full the fuel level is actually above the level of filter. It's probably around the filter level even when tank is low. If I disconnect the line from the top of the filter then fuel, not bubbles, comes out of the top driven by the head of fuel in the tank. I would have expected the air to be driven out first but it isn't. There is a short length (a few inches) of rubber fuel line running from the bottom of the filter to the end of the metal fuel line. This metal line then runs along the chassis back to the bottom of the fuel tank. There is another few inches of rubber hose where the line goes above the rear axle and then it's metal into the tank fitting. There are no fuel leaks anywhere along this line. The car is kept in a garage and there is no smell of petrol. I cannot understand where the air bubbles in the fuel are coming from and why the fuel pump is not removing the air gap at the top of the filter housing and filling the filter with fuel. The more the engine runs, the emptier the filter housing becomes. It only starts to fill when the engine is not running for a few days. Can anyone explain to me what is going on? Many thanks Richard
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