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Everything posted by Gully

  1. Can't abide football. While it was on last night I watched the World Superbikes from Donington (which I'd recorded earlier in the week). The Turkish rider who won two of the races made more sense in his slightly broken English than most football pundits every do. Gully
  2. Would it make that much difference? There are already 4 flexy hoses connecting the brake lines to the calipers and slave cylinders? Gully
  3. According to the Courier mag, the Club Shop is still posting to Europe - last time I looked they supplied Penrite and Castrol Classic. Gully
  4. I've always run NGK BP6ES in my GT6. Not tried the multi-electrode plugs yet. I did try Champion N9Y, but found the car didn't enjoy running on choke with them. Gully
  5. Fair enough - was looking for a solution to an odd problem, but looks like the issue should be solved using the smaller Canley nut, with the problem being caused by the original nut (and washer) being oversize. The Spalding site does recommend talking to them about performance requirements and specifications before ordering, which is sound advice and a good service. Gully
  6. They do thin form nuts which may be appropriate. Gully
  7. The other clanger to avoid is positioning your door mirror so you can't fully open the quarterlight! I must sit taller than the PO who fitted them and the additional tilt back on the mirror means the driver's quarterlight fouls it. Passenger side is mounted in dimensionally the same position on the door, but the quarterlight clears it. Gully
  8. Before I changed to CV shafts on my GT6 I bought a spare nyloc just in case I needed it after a job I was planning to do. It came from either Canley or Paddocks and was a much deeper nut than the original. If I'd used it, I don't believe the nylon section would have engaged with the thread sufficiently to lock it, which sounds as if it could be the issue you are encountering. My CV shafts with the original bearing design use a shaped nut that is peened into a channel to achieve locking. Gully
  9. I have one of those too - bought via Chic Doig's eBay shop around 5 years ago. Gully
  10. The specs look right to me, including the viscosity. Gully
  11. Given that the Spitfire in the same sale went for £19k plus premium, I'm not sure that's true! 😄 Gully
  12. Welcome back! Fingers crossed a few shows happen this year - seems there's an awful lot cancelled already. Gully
  13. Nothing like consistency! 😄 I'm intrigued by the reversal in pressures for the last models - have you ever tried the hard front, softer rear on your '73? Mine's a '70/'71 Mk 3, so even the WSM and owner's manual (extract below) don't align... Really is a case of going by feel! Gully
  14. My GT6 made its way down to Hampshire last week for it's Spring holiday - we've some building work starting at home this week, so needed the Triumph out of the way. It's now residing in my parents' garage. Had a good run down via the A505, M1, M25 and M3, before hopping off the motorway to cut down to Odiham, Alton and then through the Meon Valley to the coast. Around 120 miles and just under half a tank of fuel. I'll be visiting once a month until the building works are complete and the GT6 can return home! Gully
  15. Welcome to the forum. Great looking car - but them I'm biased... Gully
  16. Really?! That's interesting, as my orange owners manual for the Mk 3 GT6 says pre-1973 (ie. Rotaflex) 24 front, 28 rear, but 1973- (swing spring) 30 front and 26 rear. All based on 155/80 tyres. With modern tyres (I run 175/70 R13 on 5 inch rims) I set the pressures on my 1970 GT6 at 27 front, 30 rear - if I go as low as 24 on the front the sidewall 'slop' is really noticeable. Gully
  17. I put copper slip on the shims and them coated with Dynax 50 wax when in situ. Gully
  18. Best price seems to be around £52.99 with free postage. Gully
  19. Gully

    Spark plugs

    Presumably the R in the BUR6ET reference means they are resistive plugs? Is there a non-resistive version, as I've always avoided the suppression / resistive NGKs for my GT6 based on advice from this forum (and elsewhere)? Thanks, Gully
  20. I changed one on my GT6 a couple of years ago and found it pretty straightforward. I didn't like the idea of jacking under the sump, so jacked a block of wood positioned along the front flange area of the sump to take the weight. I then removed the two bolts holding the mount to the turret and the 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine and removed the unit complete. I then loosely reassembled the engine mounting plate with the new engine mount and reversed the process. From recollection, I used a pry bar to gently shift the engine a little (opening the V) to ensure all the bolts aligned to start them off. Gully
  21. Although the UK has been exporting ingredients for the Pfizer vaccine to their EU production facilities. Gully
  22. Gully

    Stuck inside

    Given that I was there when you took that photo, I'll recuse myself! Gully
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