Gully
-
Posts
1,307 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Gully
-
-
If you've got your fuel mixtures correct, you may find you simply need to increase the idle speed slightly. In the 10+ years I've had my GT6, whatever I do to it, it will never idle happily below 900rpm! However, the only 'hot stalling' akin to your issues that I've ever had was down to the mixture being too rich.
Gully
-
54 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
This one may be a tad over-optimistic, selling locally to me but at £3100; might be a Sprint but the other pics show serious rust in places.:
Donor vehicle for the one behind?
Gully
-
On 18/01/2024 at 14:01, Gully said:
So I got an advisory regarding tyres starting to perish. The experience of the MOT station / garage is that it's now more common for tyres to need replacing owing to perishing cracks than running out of tread. Perishing at year 3 is not unusual for many brands - including 'premium' ones. All in the zero ozone depletion compounds...
Gully
I successfully made use of the Black Circles lifetime warranty. They gave me an 80% credit on the hardly worn, perishing rear Bridgestone tyres.
Gully
-
1 hour ago, Casper said:
Now, the M on the bonnet catches . . . .
C.
I've been told that stands for Michelotti.
Gully
-
I found this difference when I fitted a new headlamp switch to my Mk 3. The original depended on the metal plate fixed to the reverse of the dashboard, whereas the new switch pushed straight into the hole in the dash. Both had the same escutcheon appearance from the front, which is obviously different to the hazard switch.
My hazard switch is without escutcheon.
Gully
-
Go easy - the plate it's mounted on can fracture where it 90 degrees folds around the bottom of the quarterlight and then you're in search of a hens teeth replacement - and all to get a click...
Gully
-
1 hour ago, PeteH said:
The young are not coming forward to run. IMHO a somewhat sad feature of modern society. "They" want these facilities, but someone else to run them, usually for "nowt".
Peter.
Not my experience at all with the outdoor activities club I help run. We have great support from former members continuing as junior leaders and then continuing to volunteer. We also gain parent and teacher leaders from time to time. Problem with defunct marque-specific car clubs is that the vehicles cease to be relevant to younger people, so there won't be a pool of people to draw on or replenish those departing.
Gully
-
1
-
-
I don't have an issue with sensible booking fees which are reflective of the various charges levied by the providers involved. It's the blanket £5 - £10 per ticket which I object to as that's blatant profiteering. For instance, a club I'm involved with now has online ticketing for everything (we used to be cheques and paper forms via the post, which then had to be banked etc - we had to change as nobody has cheques any more). There are two charges for every online transaction - one from Ticket Tailor, who provide the front end event sales gateway, then a second fee from Stripe, who handle the financial transaction. These total around 3.5% per ticket, which we pass on in full to those booking, but they are actual costs. If booking fees have a blanket ban, we'd simply include that c. 3.5%in the ticket price.
Gully
-
Wonder if these issues extend to the non-recessed gaskets too? I've a Payen in stock for mine which I bought a few years ago (can't recall if pre or post 2020) - not needed to use it yet...
Gully
-
When I was involved with Vulcan to the Sky, we used to have Forum meets at the hangar - everyone wore name badges with their Forum Names on. Simples!
Gully
-
On 15/01/2024 at 08:39, Gully said:
Current set of Bridgestones on my modern have started to crack between the tread blocks. They've been on the car for 2 years and done c. 30k miles in that time. Plenty of tread left front and rear. Date code shows them as having been made only 6 months before I bought them. Will be interesting to hear what the MOT man says later today.
Gully
So I got an advisory regarding tyres starting to perish. The experience of the MOT station / garage is that it's now more common for tyres to need replacing owing to perishing cracks than running out of tread. Perishing at year 3 is not unusual for many brands - including 'premium' ones. All in the zero ozone depletion compounds...
Gully
-
3 hours ago, Patrick Taylor said:
You have my sympathies. Disappointing, isn't it?
And irritating!
Gully
-
5 hours ago, Patrick Taylor said:
What I have found to be really poor are the aftermarket chrome wheel nuts sold to fit alloy wheels. The threads strip far more easily than on the studs, which is as it should be, of course: all engineering is predicated on having a hard material in contact with a (comparatively) softer/more elastic one. I keep a spare set of nuts to top up the set in use as they strip. And yes, I only torque them to 40 ft/lb.
That's my experience too.
Gully
-
Current set of Bridgestones on my modern have started to crack between the tread blocks. They've been on the car for 2 years and done c. 30k miles in that time. Plenty of tread left front and rear. Date code shows them as having been made only 6 months before I bought them. Will be interesting to hear what the MOT man says later today.
Gully
-
Yes, MOT every year. Always good to wander beneath the ramp and see what it looks like without crawling underneath! Also good to get an annual brake balance check.
Gully
-
1
-
-
Does this help? Shows the head ports below the thermostat.
Gully
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Martin V said:
Just chatted to Rimmer this morning and found that they do actually have a fitting instruction sheet for the conversion which I'm sure the PO would have bought from them. Attached if anyone wants to look. Clearly PO didn't read it, it seems a trend. Clearly says "with filter straight down" obviously depending on obstructions and filter size but this is not a long filter from TJ @85mm.
I'll buy a service kit for this just in case I find an issue with either of O rings when I go to make the rotation.
I suspect you won't be able to rotate the spin on conversion to get a 'filter straight down' position - the chassis rails are in the way on the GT6... Best I managed was an angle around 7-8pm and significant problems changing the spin on filter between the PRV and rails. The Mocal conversion plate is sat on a shelf in the shed an the original filter bowl in place on the car.
Gully
-
Irrespective of the engine number, flat top pistons with that head should be correct. Both may have been changed from its original build... It sounds right that the crank case breather goes to the inlet manifold - hopefully via the Smiths valve.
As for the D-type overdrive, a D-type is correct for a GT6.
Gully
-
I have CDSE 150 Strombergs on my Mk 3 - I've only tweaked them very occasionally, so these symptoms suggest to me that there's something else going on (carbs can't change themselves!). Possibly a case for going back to basics across all the settings - static timing, needles / jets positions.
Just a thought - what air filters are you running? Are they non-standard and clogging / impeding the airflow?
For bodywork, a couple of us have used Finishline in Graveley (near Stevenage) - not cheap, but good quality workmanship.
Gully
-
On 09/12/2023 at 13:32, dougbgt6 said:
I read Royal mail are delaying snail mail in favour of the more lucrative Christmas parcel market.
I think the correct term is prioritising... Parcels are where they make their money - the universal letter service offering is what's crippling their business. In my view, it's about time we recognised the greatly reduced number of letters in the system and switched to 3 letter deliveries per week. Probably the only way to keep postage stamp costs from escalating further.
Gully
-
On 30/11/2023 at 11:37, Pete Lewis said:
as on rotaflex the toe is adjusted by shims under the inboard pivot brackets ???
On my Rotoflex GT6 there's plenty of adjustment in the tie bar adjuster to make quite a considerable difference to the toe. The way the geometry works, the adjuster is pretty effective. One side of mine was way out when I first had it, but straightforward to adjust.
Gully
-
1
-
-
18 hours ago, micmak said:
The pump does indeed look new. The car had a full restoration and has only done just a few hundred miles. I will take the bowls off tomorrow and check once again for slivers around the needle valves.
If making gaskets out of cornflake boxes will suffice, then that will be my next step after tomorrow’s sliver search!
.....Mick.....
The slivers sit in the fuel lines and move against the float valves, then float back again - they rarely make it into the bowls. With the carb supply pipes removed, turnover the engine (or use the priming lever) to flush through the pipes. Then vaseline the connections before pushing the pipes back onto the carbs.
Gully
-
1 hour ago, Rockape said:
I don’t see any alternative to removal, degreasing on the bench and then replacement…hence my other question…is it worth the hassle?🤷♂️🤔
I decided it was worth the hassle - it's not a long job, particularly if you mark the castellated nut so you keep the bearings end float unchanged. Once the trunnion is unscrewed from the vertical link, a pipe cleaner is ideal for removing the grease from the VL.
Gully
-
Welcome to the Forum! Lovely looking car.
Gully
New Vitesse owner required.
in General
Posted
Loved my late model (South African import) E36 318iS saloon (yes, it was a 1.9!). I found a lovely E36 325 estate on Car and Classic last year which I was sorely tempted by.
Gully