Gully

Likewise - Toyo NanoEnergy 3 (in my case on 5J Minilites). Gully

If you mean this set up: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1320 , then the split pin holds the castellated nut. Does that outer race rotate on the stub axle and move against the nut? Who knows... Gully

There's a flat washer with a D shaped hole which sits between the castellated nut and the bearing. It locates on the flat on the threaded section to remove any rotational force on the nut itself. The nut is not torqued to prevent it moving - it's tightened, then backed off, with the split pin then preventing it moving from the set position. When my GT6 was MOT'd last year, the chap who does it had an apprentice with him and he was explaining to him the need for movement on the taper bearings. Gully

Hi Pete, Unless my two trusty pieces of timber (loose copies of your patented design!) are out of calibration, it's all set to the book. It's not skittish, just lighter, and no general directional stability issues. Given the time of year, I suspect we'd be in the dark in the car park on Monday, but worth a 2nd pair of eyes next time I'm over with you in the daylight! Many thanks, Paul

Based on general inflation, it's c. £1,685.00. Gully

I had to replace the multi-way bullet connector for the dipped beam headlamps on my GT6 recently. I squirted the new (and existing) connectors with this spray to hopefully ward off corrosion for a little longer:

I was offered the chin spoiler by the previous owner of my GT6, but turned it down as it wasn't a standard fitment in 1970/71 and I couldn't see myself fitting it. However, I've often wondered (usually when I'm doing 70mph!) if I should have said 'yes', as the front is noticeably lighter at higher speeds. Gully

As Doug noted below, the top adjuster CDSEs have O-rings by the needle adjusters immersed in the damper oil, which deteriorate and leak. Gully

Likewise! Gully

I seem to recall the manual recommends checking / topping up weekly anyway. Mine do leak - the front carb more than the rear - so I check and top up generally to coincide with when I need to buy fuel every c. 200 miles. Gully

I've had the two individual ones the seller produces for the GT6 sat on a shelf in my shed for about 5 years now... Gully

Probably an earthing fault - those two bolts provide the earth connection to the body. Mine have had an additional earth wire added back to the loom as I have fibreglass valance panels. Gully

From what I could glean, it's just come out of an 8 year rebuild - much of it by the owner, but painted professionally. Gully

It was so good I checked it wasn't one of the recent 'run on' models! Gully

I tried to get our locals to call you and ask for dashpot oil advice to aid your recovery, but clearly nobody got through! 🤣 Gully

I always assumed it was a RWD thing. RWD Escorts also had higher rear pressures than fronts. My experience with my '71 GT6 is if the fronts are pumped too hard, understeer appears - inevitable with the boat anchor of an engine mounted partially in front of the (virtual) front axle - and if the rears are too soft I can feel the sidewalls 'slopping'. Given that the GT6 Mk3 handbook was updated for the late swing spring models (so it covers both suspension designs), I don't believe the earlier pressures were a mistake. Michelin's period fitment guide for the TR6 was 22psi front and 26psi rear... Gully

There are various threads on here regarding tyre pressures. Triumph had the GT6 MkIII pre-1973 cars with the fronts at a lower pressure than the rear, but reversed that for the 1973 swing spring cars. From the owners manual (based on 155 SR-13 radials): Pre-'73 Front: 24psi, Rear 28psi 1973 Front: 30psi, Rear 26psi Gully

My GT6 Mk 3 is set at around 10 degrees advance - I've tweaked it by about a degree in 10 years of ownership! Tickover is set slightly higher than the manual at c. 1000rpm, as it's always had a tendency to occasionally die at junctions when down at c. 850. Pulls fine across the rev range. I use Super Unleaded, generally with a fuel additive (which includes octane boost as well as lead substitute and anti-ethanol properties). As many have outlined above - if it runs well when set 'by feel / ear', there can't be too much wrong; seems to point to the damper ring having slipped as per John D's research. Gully

Whenever I follow one of these auction links I get drawn into browsing the other Lots available. There's a lovely Nova GTE in the sale - I had the 1.4i version back in the early 1990's and loved it: so much better than the Corsa which followed. Always had a soft spot for Vauxhalls, with my first car having been a Mk 1 Astra. Gully

You'll need a GT6 sump to clear the steering rack. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-gt6-mkiii&diagram=triumph-gt6-mkiii-plates-sump-rear-oil-seal-dipstick-lifting-eyes Part 308571. Worth checking the usual suppliers, as Canley say available 2nd hand to order. Gully

Me too! Gully

I think many of us run 175/70 R13 as they are a more common size, plus the circumference is very close to the original 155/80 tyres, meaning speedo readings are pretty much unaffected. Mine are on 5in rims, so they'll be fine on your 5.5in wheels. Gully

Mine came from Car Builder Solutions: https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/radiator-caps Gully

Worth checking that your rad cap isn't too deep for the neck of the radiator. If the sprung seal is completely compressed, it can't lift to release the pressure. Mind you, it's unlikely - main issue I had was finding a cap deep enough! Gully

My GT6 runs 175/70 tyres on 5 inch rims all round and has no bulkhead clearance issues. Standard front springs and shocks. When QuickNick and I compared cars (when he was having his bulkhead fouling issues) we found the front of his car (ground / chassis clearance) was sitting slightly lower than mine - as he's indicated above, a slight front end lift via adjustable spring pan shocks solved the problem. Gully