Gully

Zenith Stomberg application list here: https://zenithcarb.co.uk/cf/vehicle/list/?manufacturer=Triumph&vehicle=GT6 My GT6 (sent to dealership in Dec 70 and sold Jan 71) has 3335L&R carbs (both tags in place). Gully

Glad the answer was what I suggested in the very first reply to this thread! 🤣🤣🤣 Gully

Good to see the Triumph incontinence marks... 🤣 Gully

Answering the two questions first: 1. No 2. Seem to recall the spring retaining the push is part of the circuit Have you checked the small wire which crosses the UJ on the steering column is in place and the steering rack earth wire is also in position? You'll need both for the horn circuit to complete. Gully

I'm driving down to the Alps at Easter - bought my Crit'Air sticker for the modern late last year. Very efficient service. The sticker isn't required for most of my journey, but Chambery can demand the stickers be displayed if air pollution reaches certain trigger levels - at the behest of the Mayor, apparently! Gully

I removed the inertia reel belts from my GT6 and replaced them with statics - as per original fitment. Never had a problem with the ignition switch - just slip the belt off your shoulder! I found the inertia reel belts tightened and locked as others have outlined above, but were actually quite difficult to get to lock with a sudden tug (MOT test / accident scenario) owing to the drag in the system. All round, I've never regretted the reversion to statics. Gully

In Peter Truman's first diagram, I'm confused by the 12v 1.5 ohm coil after the ballast resistor - would have thought it would be 6v 1.5 ohm? Thanks, Gully

Looking at mine, there are 4 fixings for the quaterlight and frame, so the top one should be clear as well as the other 3. Gully

Be careful with the length of those rocker cover studs. The front one should be shorter so it doesn't foul the bonnet. In fact, they all look longer than mine! Gully

If the car was running fine before this starting / running issue, then surely it smacks of a sudden change in state? Dirt / blockage, or a component failure, as opposed to set-up? The two occasions I've had starting issues with my GT6 were both down to fuel pump issues after a short-ish period without use - first time the diaphragm had holed, the second time the pump valves were allowing fuel drain back which until I pressurised the tank the pump wouldn't pull through. Gully

Welcome - great looking GT6! Gully

I had a quotation 2 years ago to bare metal respray my GT6, along with a repair to the off-side rear quarter - around £9k + VAT. I had 50% of the work done to align with my budget at the time, spending around £5.5-6k (including the repair). When I went back for a confirmed quotation for the balance of work a couple of months ago, I was quoted £9-10k + VAT... Needless to say, it's not being done! Picking up the suggestion above of a sliding scale of charging, the work I had done originally took double the quoted time (it was fitted around insurance and race repair work), so the body shop reduced their hourly rate on the final invoice. Gully

I've had CDD driveshafts on my GT6 for 6 or 7 years now - fitted by Robsport who bought them through TRGB if I recall correctly. There's a surprising amount of play (rotational float) on one of them after 10-12k miles. Gully

Absolutely - I had that with a set of Avons on my GT6. Cured by fitting a set of Falkens! Gully

I've still got the BL badges on my GT6 - part of its history. Gully

I've never driven a car with the switch on the column. However, I like the gear knob switch - seems more intuitive to me, rather than stuck amongst the lights and indicators. Gully

You can simply swap the top half of the pump (which includes the valves) and leave the lever / spring etc assembly on the block. This preserves the original output pressure if you encounter any problems. It's easy to replace the diaphragm at this stage too. Gully

It's this picture: Gully

The two cooling system pipes that disappear into the bulkhead are the supply and return for the heater matrix - easy to pop off and flush. If you remove the hose from the heater valve end, that gives an easy (gentle!) push-on for flushing the valve. There's a useful diagram in the Workshop manual which illustrates the flow direction in each hose. Gully

It's gone up in price since I bought mine a few months ago. Inflation and all that! I'd still be winning if I'd bought new in the first place, as opposed to previously buying two re-cored ones, both of which leaked after a couple of years (one on the core, the other had a neck lip fracture). Gully

This one: https://custommaderads.co.uk/product/triumph-gt6-aluminium-radiator/ Gully

I flushed the cooling system on my GT6 a few weeks ago as I was fitting a new aluminium radiator. I removed the radiator cap first, then drained the block via the block drain tap (which flowed immediately - a good sign!). I then drained the rest of the system by removing the bottom hose (my old radiator didn't have a drain tap). I flushed the system thoroughly, using the garden hose, as follows: 1. Disconnected the heater supply from the heater valve and its return, so I could flush the heater matrix 2. Flushed the coolant return from the heater valve / banjo bolt 3. Reverse flushed the heater valve itself - this removed the most crud 4. Flushed the block via the block drain I disposed of the old coolant properly, but the flushing water from the hose I simply allowed to exit into a bucket and splash at will onto the driveway and into the drain. Only a few rusty stains on the drive! I flushed until the water ran clear. New radiator is fitted and the heater is now working again (flow was poor due to build-up in the rad valve). Gully

Definitely the trunnion on the VL, and it was definitely screwed on sufficiently. The only thing 'out of the ordinary' I did was heat soak the trunnion when I soldered the base disc before fitting to the car so it didn't leak oil (based on the experiences of others with the 'new' trunnions). Oh well. Something to do over Winter / Spring 🙂 Gully

That's my suspicion! And your interpretation of 'tip' is right 👍 Gully

Took my GT6 for its annual MOT inspection earlier in the week (it passed), but was surprised to find some tip appearing in both front trunnions after only around 5-6,000 miles being driven on each. Everything moves freely on the suspension and they've been oiled with EP90 every 6 months, so I would have expected them to last longer. Anyone else on here found premature trunnion wear? The VL threads looked in great condition when the trunnions were replaced and there was no play at the last inspection (c. 2,000 miles ago). Thanks, Gully