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iainbja

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  • Location
    Blackpool
  • Cars Owned
    Triumph spitfire mark 4 Singer Chamois 875 F56 JCW MINI

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  1. I am considering fitting one the brake servo kits you can get for the Triumph Spitfire. Mine is a mark 4 single circuit master cylinder. The kits that are around £80. I realise it does not improve braking performance but because I tow a caravan I thought it might make the pedal a bit easier when towing. My question is how does the thing plumb in not really the the brake pipes more the vacuum side do you have to drill the inlet manifold or is there somewhere to take the feed from. Has anyone fitted one of these kits your advice would be helpful regards James
  2. local machine shop charged me £350 to convert head to unleaded and lap valves it etc that was 2019 though.
  3. thanks for all your hep will order the better ones from the club
  4. I have a 1500 Spitfire and tow a lightweight Freedom Caravan it weighs about 600kg I think fully loaded. Car tows it fine at a nice 55 mph on the motorway etc. My question is do you think it could be killing the UJ's in the half shafts. I have only done about 3000 miles on a new one and its making a noise again. Was purchased from a local motor factors. I am considering perhaps more heavy duty ones but not sure where to look. The club seem to offer a more expensive one has any one tried fitting these ones. Regards Iain
  5. yes I think you understand me when looking forward from the front of the car you can see the side of the actual mount it's not hidden behind the turret.
  6. I have removed my engine mounts to change them my old ones had a thick large silver spacer between the mount and the bit that joins the engine without the gap seems quite wide. Secondly, I am not sure if they go inside or outside the suspension box section. If you know what i mean so you can place the mount on the outside and bolt through or fit it in the box section part and tighten up from the outside. I can't even find any pictures to look at not clear in the Haynes manual. Thanks for your Help Iain
  7. iainbja

    3 cylinder 1500

    Pete your reply makes sense. I have just had the head gasket fail after 5k miles since rebuild.. ran ok but clouds of steam out of the back and it was on three cylinders at times when started from cold. I purchased payen gasget set and replace it. Did not get the head skimmed because it had never got hot the water and oil also never mixed but of course replaced both. done about 500 miles since. I have ordered those flange nuts for the A+engine and will replace one at a time retorquing it down. Hope that sorts it rather than taking the head of again.
  8. iainbja

    3 cylinder 1500

    always the same cylinder tried different leads these are new ones from the Club the Magnicor ones. could be a sticky valve i guess.
  9. iainbja

    3 cylinder 1500

    I have a strange issue with my engine. its a rebuilt unleaded head bottom end had piston rings re bore new shells etc and it drives normally fine I even tow a caravan with it. all four compressions are equal but only 140 on my compression tester. New rocker shaft and the tappets are set cold to the correct gap. When the car has not been used for say a week or longer sat in the garage. When I start it it is on three cylinders the one nearest the bulkhead not firing. give it a few revs up maybe drive up the street goes back to 4 and will remain like that all the time until another long rest period, Got electronic ignition Power Spark the non Lucas one AC Delco I think it powers the rev counter from a cable drive.
  10. It was from Ebay put Triumph Spitfire clutch master cylinder in and along with all the unbranded ones the TRW one is listed for £62 was £99 when I looked up the price on the internet. My car is a late mark 4 so 1300 engine with the herald style box but with synchro on all gears plus a J type overdrive. After 180k miles the original engine and box were getting worn out. I had a 1500 engine in the garage so got an exchange gearbox form td fitchett mine was a rare box with J type in the uk. However in America they got the 1500 engine before us and they did use the older box with Jtype like I have hence the special clutch Plate. I fitted at the time a new master and slave and whilst it works towed a caravan etc the clutch was always too low just not enough travel so reverse tended to grate a bit going in and it got slowly worse. Now with my socket on the end of the slave cylinder rod and a couple of mm more on the master cylinder the clutch is the best it's ever been all gears really easy light and no longer on the floor to get the gears. Not sure how long it will last but for now it feels right.
  11. Yes I adjusted the rod so its just not pushing on the clutch. Its an unusual mix of 1500 engine with early herald type gear box and j type overdrive using a 1974 model year American clutch plate fits the Toledo as well i think. I have always struggled with too low a clutch but now its spots on
  12. quick update the American TRW master cylinder instantly sorted back to nice light clutch used an adjustable rod out of the master cylinder so clutch now biting half way not buried in the carpet. Did not even need to bleed.
  13. in truth the socket was a tight fit on the plunger thing just used superglue to steady it. I think also its always under some pressure against the clutch arm .
  14. taken the slave cylinder from underneath ordered a new one it did look ok though but it was bit wet down there so maybe a tiny leak. I could do with a longer shaft on the master cylinder to improve how far it deploys. I di change the foot pedal because it had gone a bit oval and fitted a new sleeve where the pin goes through.
  15. having an issue with my Spitfire clutch. In 2017 I fitted a 1500 engine to my mark 4 spitfire. It has J type overdrive with the earlier box the one you can change all the gear lever bushes etc not the later 1500 Marina gearbox. to make this all work I needed a think 9 spline clutch to fit my gearbox and the 1500 cover. There was this configuration in America in 1974 so that's what I got plus a new slave cylinder. It has been fine however i always felt like i could do with being able to press the pedal further into the floor. I made sure no carpet etc getting in the way I even ground some of the slave cylinder face away so it fits closer to the gearbox so the rod pushes slightly further. However yesterday it started to get worse so grating into reverse but forward gears ok but gradually detreated until now car jumps forward with the clutch in and really is not drivable I amnged the 30 miles to get it home. Any ideas do you think slave Cylinder or master or clutch no fluid leaks i can see although clutch fluid dropped about 10 mm since I last looked.
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