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Everything posted by Pdv

  1. RrectHi All, What I thought were Millboards were old rear 1/4 trim panels. They are hardboard, but are OK for what I want,I will put them in water to make them soft and then bend them to the correct profile and then either varnish or PVA them. Thanks for all the replies. Steve
  2. HI, Not sure if this helps but a company in the UK called vehicle wiring products sell solder bullets and connectors as original. I repaired my loom using them, the only issue is the cable at the bullet end can be either oxidised or has heat damage such that it will not be able to accept the solder I cut these back to decent cable and replaced the damaged part with the same colour cable by soldering the cables together and then sleeving them with adhesive heatshrink sleeving. Steve
  3. Hi all, Thanks for the replies. I have two Heralds and in theory should have two covers, one cover is from the complete Herald which is good and can be used as a pattern. As I am writing this I hope I have the old millboards from the one I am restoring, I can even remember where I stored them so I know where to look but think that they went in last clear out. Thanks again. Steve
  4. Hi, Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the fibre board that I screwed over the handbrake lever. Or do you know what it is made of so I can source a piece. Thanks Steve
  5. Hi, Has anybody recently bought the crossed flags for the Herald 13/60 etc. They have been remade and I read a while ago that they re OK but only ok. Would like to buy some but is difficult without seeing them. Thanks Steve
  6. Hi, As non member says, I met a guy with a Damson Vitesse who had a bare metal respray and was talking about the colour difference and he said that there were two colours one darker than the other. By the way what a fantastic respray it was. Steve
  7. Hi, Don't know if this will help but the car I bought was Damson but was not sure of the paint that was used. So took the boot to the local paint suppliers to match a paint for me. So far so good, I then asked them to mix me a can to touch up a small area, can ends up darker than what they had originaly mixed for me, it transpired that the accelerant in the can caused the paint to be darker. I bought a small spray gun and used that to paint any small bits that need doing. Steve
  8. Hi Colin, Yes you could say that, the rear wing was full of filler, after removing it I tried heat shrinking but to no avail, so it had to go. A picture of the new wing, the edge you can see is plug welded but the bottom flanges and the end of the wing are all spot welded. Also is a picture of the finished bulkhead, this was from a saloon purchased from someone you will know, an ex TSSC register secretary, Mr Bill Davies. Steve
  9. There is a carpenters saying, check twice cut once. For me it should be check twice post once. The title should have read outer. I can't even blame alcohol. New outer wing in place. Thanks and I will try herder in future. Steve
  10. The car is a 13/60 and years ago some kind person backed into the rear, fortunately they had a tow bar so the damage was to the rear valence and the spare wheel well. Did they leave a note with their details, no. As the mot was due I took it off the road to repair, loads of work was carried out, one thing led to another and I am now at it again. At the time it came off the road I purchased a lower rear wing and and the rear inner wing, got the wing from the workshop rafters only to find that in no way was it anything resembling a fit, too large and the curved lip did not come anywhere near matching the rear wing These were bought from Rimmers and both still have rthe correct part numbers and the wing I then had to purchase has the same part number. I spoke to the guy at Rimmers when ordering the new wing who basically did no have an answer. So I now have a part that I do not have clue what it might fit. By the way both inner and outer are now fitted with lots of fettling to the inner and ready good fit and no fettling required to the outer. Steve
  11. Pdv

    Wiper motor

    Thanks Pete, Have only had a brief look but that looks very useful, will save it and read through it. Steve
  12. Pdv

    Wiper motor

    Thanks Colin. The first photograph looks to be the type I have but with the wire coming out of the centre, that is attached to a brass sprung piece which then makes contact with a thin brass plate with a cut out piece where no contact is made. I assume that this is the stop for the wipers to come to rest, maybe the two wires are one for continuous wiper and the other when you stop the motor power continues until it reaches the cut out peice ie the stop. Both photographs show what could be where the wire enters the motor housing I will look in the morning. Steve
  13. I am refurbishing two wiper motors. Where do the brown wires go. One has a brown wire from the winding and is original the other does not and must be assumed as missing. Where does this go, as it must be attached internally, there is also a brown wire that comes from the outside attached to the part of the motor that stops the motor at rest. Help please ps, I have the service manual and understand the external wiring. Thanks Steve
  14. Pdv

    Parts again.

    EBought the wiper motor fixings, approx a year eighteen months ago. Car has been in a good workshop since. Checked today to see connections for another wiper motor and the ruppert mounts are cracked ie aged before time. The issue I have is this is easy to rectify but when you read of items such as engine mounts and steering gaiters perishing (I can rember reading of someone fitting gaiters, the car did not leave his garage and in very short time they had perished it does not give one confidence on a purchase of these items.
  15. Hi Peter, Thanks for that tip, having got this far I think I will try to get a good secondhand one from someone like Chic Doig. I have two 13/60s one was damaged by someone with a towbar backing into the rear of the car damaging the rear valance and spare wheel well. Well to cut a long story short I ended up reducing it to its component parts to restore. It was good that I did as only one of the outriggers was welded on top , it now has all new outriggers and uprated siderails. It has a good bulkhead (a saloon one bought from Bill Davis, Rarebits) and I have fitted new floorpans and a new pedal fitting. Steve
  16. Thanks Chris, No chance of that as is only on the edge of the pedal.
  17. Hi Thanks for the replies.looks like the Beetle rubber is the best option, but will look as said in my local hardware shop for a similar piece of rubber. Another option is that the perished part is on the top edge and I have some black silicone roofing adhesive.. and I will give that a try first. Steve
  18. I am looking to replace the pedal due to damaged / rusty pivot part of the pedal and also perished rubber. If needs be I can make the metal part but the rubber is a different matter. I have searched all the usual suppliers to no avail. Will try Chick Doig for a second hand one. Has anyone refurbished one, some tips if you have would be great. Thanks Steve
  19. Hi Pete, Same here Pete but he shows how to do it. One blog in particular shows how to use the masking tape to get a feather edge, I did it and it worked. I can't get any where near some of the things he does but simple things like using a wet cloth when welding to reduce distortion is so simple but I will do it now every time. Good luck and hope it goes well. Steve
  20. Hi Peter Google, Trevs blog. It is a wonderful resource of bodywork repair and paint. One episode in particular shows how to get a soft edge, which is what you want to do. No associations but a very talented guy. Steve
  21. Hi Clive I thought it probably would be Newtons but not sure. The fitting instructions give details for both convertible and Saloon, although I think it was related to to the floor piece. The instructions start with the bulkhead piece and there is no mention of saloon. Thanks
  22. Hi all I have two 13 60 convertibles, one part restored which is Signal Red the other which is Damson is complete. I had a while ago purchased a black interior set to fit to the red car when complete and then fitted it to the Damson one as the interior needed replacing. I then bought a stiched black carpet and fitted it to the Damson one and it looked good. But then decided that it would be better the other way round. So I decided to fit a Light Tan moulded carpet, plus Tan interiorto the Damson one as then both cars would be original, I am now fitting the moulded carpet and I am pleased with the purchase but I am struggling with the narrow rear bulkhead piece. The black set was from James Paget and the tan set was from Rimmers, the Rimmers one is made by Newton Commercial and not sure who made the one from James Paget. I thought it would be easy to fit the tan one as the black was a good fit and would be a good pattern. Well what do I find, the tan one is not as long as the black one, it will go slightly under the floor carpet and that needs cutting at each rear corner but where to cut ? and not make a mess of it by leaving a gap and leaving metal showing. Any help, advice, tips or best of all photograph/s would be most welcome. Even if you have not fitted one but have a fitted carpet, again any photographs would be a great help. Thanks in anticipation. Steve
  23. Hi Pat, Look up Chapman and Cliff on Google They will supply either veneer as original or a veneer as you would get after several years of uv on it. They will also supply the correct varnish as well. Did mine a few years ago now and well pleased so hope this not out of date. Steve
  24. Pdv

    Stale petrol

    Hi What do you guys use to stop petrol going stale if you use your car infrequently. I knew that it went stale, however over the years have never had petrol that smelt off though, but was told recently that it could be as little a couple of months. Thoughts on this subject would be appreciated. Steve
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