T3 California

Good points. It takes a firm grip with pliers to earn a click. Not sure how to check a torque with a flat blade screwdriver and can't get near my torque wrench at present. With all the other tools I don't trust.

I thought it was odd to have different sized slots , buts its true. The rocker arm assembly is a replacement I bought from rimmer bros many years ago. The flat blade measures 1.22mm at one end and 1.32mm at the other end! The real problem is the winding down stiffness to achieve the loud click. One can see the valve being compressed before the click is heard. I remember when these first came out and wanted one then. I did not realise that Gunson were making a copy, obviously not v well machined

Bought a Gunson Click Adjust to "easily" set my tappets , a job I have always avoided doing. Nice idea but does not work on my Vitesse straight 6. Firstly, for some reason, the outlet valves adjuster have a smaller slot than the inlet valve. The flat head screwdriver part is too thick to fit the outlet valve adjuster. So that 6 valves I can't set. Secondly, and more importantly, when setting the start point for adjustment when winding down the black knob to achieve the "loud click" it has already started to compress the valve. So you are not starting from zero and does not set properly. One can try and do it by eye but this completely defeated the reason for this tool. You also need two feeler gauges to calibrate it initially. Very disappointing as had waited 20 years to be able to afford to purchase this item.

Definitely a 22D marked with number 41273 on the side, advance 11deg. I took the base plate out and re-seated it but made no difference. What degree of timing retardation do people find works, if using castrol valve master plus?

Can't do photos as have re instated the old points and coil. Certainly the 20yr old rotor arm is a bit loose and I have ordered a new red one from the shop. No one has come up with a solution/suggestion to the plastic magnetic timing disc scrapping the top of sensor module yet. I would be grateful for any ideas as I feel this is the most obvious fault that has not been addressed. Maybe the new rotor arm will make a difference. Since putting back the points it idles better but has a low rev flat spot that suddenly kicks back in. Thanks for all your considerations

Reply to Pete Thanks for getting back, I did not see your post until after my latest reply. Yes part number MAG MKT005 You are right , it was my incompetent, hurried refitting of the points that would not let the car start with the old kit. So its just the electronic ignition and new coil that are potentially the problem. Looks like £150 down the drain

Have re-instated the old points and coil again (third time). Accurately set the points, and it is running again quite sweetly. Seems to work better with the old coil, Checked the voltage on the old coil, 12v while running on the positive side, 6v on the negative. Not sure what that implies, whether ballasted or not? Looks like I might have fried the coil and the electronic ignition, hard to know how though. Not keen on putting it back in the car for a third time to test them. Anyone know how to bench test these units??? Thanks

Thanks for the reply. Yes I have a multimeter and will try the voltage test, have checked continuity and swopped the spade connectors for better quality items. Yes I mean 1.5mm gap between the ring (magnetic timing disc) and sensor (module). It is touching and has scrapped off the label on the sensor which is why I have been attempting to raise up a bit, without success. I don't understand why I have no spark after refitting all the old points and rest of the kit from leads to coil. Earthing wire insitu

Help please to forum newbie. After 20 years of owning my Mk2 Vitesse I decided to fit a magnetronic electronic ignition system with lumenition matched coil, new distributor cap, and new club HT leads, all bought from the club shop. I studied the u tube videos and was convinced it would take about 30 minutes. 5 hours later I have no spark. Its is fitted with a lucas 22d dizzy and was working just fine before the swop. I had to cut off the peg as per the instructions on the base plate and got a good flush fitting for the adapter plate. Attached the module, now here is the first problem. I was unable to get a gap of 1.5mm for the magnetic timing disc , it was much too tight. There is some vertical play in the dizzy but little side to side play. Everything I tried to lift the magnetic timing disc resulted in the rotor arm not bedding down properly. The other dilemma was , I was unsure if the Mk2 is fitted with a ballast protector already. The existing coil measures 3 ohms. I can see no white wires with vague pink strips. It had a new loom in 1995 and I am not sure if they used the factory colours. So I fitted the ballast protector that came with the new coil. I also fitted a new distributor cap and club leads, having used the old leads as a template to refit in correct order. Tried to start it up , turns over (new battery) well but won't start. No spark from HT leads. Took it to bits, the label on the module has scrapped off as the timing disc is too close. Swopped back the old points , dizzy cap , leads and coil, still won't start and still no spark! I have been through the troubleshooting guide , which does not say what to do if the timing disc is too tight to the module. I wonder if there is a thinner adapter plate? So I now have a car with no spark with either the new or the old ignition system! Any suggestions gratefully received BW Tom