Jonah
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Posts posted by Jonah
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Thank you, yes it moved a little after some persuasion but not much
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It is a telescopic prop with the joint at the overdrive end
should I be able to push the joint back?
Julian
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Should mine be a telescopic version in the Mk3?
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Pete, you mentioned earlier a possibility of my prop being telescopic. Looking at the Rimmer catalogue it looks like my Mk3 with overdrive should be telescopic. I’ve assumed that mine isn’t because it doesn’t seem to slide but is there a better way to properly test my assumption?
julian
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I feel your pain, that’s sounds terribly familiar Graham. I removed the overdrive mounting but haven’t removed the mounting plate so that’s now on tomorrow’s list
did disconnecting the prop at the diff give you the clearance you needed?
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Thanks Paul
i replaced the fulcrum pin, the insert and the fulcrum bushes as I could see wear on the bell housing….. but hadn't changed the clutch plate
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I changed the clutch release bearing as part of the gearbox rebuild but haven’t changed the clutch…….yet!
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No they haven’t been checked………but they will be now!
thanks Johny
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Thanks Paul
i think that was my problem as well, i hadn’t raised the gearbox or the rear of the engine enough, I was a bit timid about jacking up the engine
hopefully tomorrow will bring success!
Julian
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I’ll try that Johny, I loosened the mounting bolts and just supported the engine on a jack to give me some wriggle room
Should I remove the mounting bolts completely to do this?
julian
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I’ve just pulled the unit back to check for any damage to the clutch etc, thankfully all good
the position of the driveshaft flange is the problem because it won’t let me lower the unit enough to get it in at the right angle, in other words there’s not enough gap, getting the unit out in the first place was really difficult, but as you say it came out this way so should go back
ill use longer studs and drop the prop at the diff end which makes perfect sense
thanks all Julian
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I agree it is odd, I was hoping the driveshaft would drop down after it was disconnected from the overdrive, but it didn't
Also the overdrive shaft nut protrudes beyond the flange which makes the alignment tricky
is there a way that I can drop the driveshaft down to get the gearbox better positioned?
I’ve got three studs at the top of the end plate, the gearbox aligns with them but because of the angle there is a huge gap at the bottom
I’ve loosened the engine mounts and disconnected the exhaust from the manifold to allow some movement
Julian
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Thanks Pete
There’s no telescope in the driveshaft, it looks as though the shaft needs to drop down otherwise there just isn’t enough gap to lower the gearbox into position
Julian
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And there was me thinking of a test run this weekend!
getting it back in is proving more difficult than getting it out
My question is does the driveshaft need to be removed to create enough space?
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I thought I’d update my progress on the spitfire gearbox and overdrive rebuild, attached pic
after some great advice from a very patient Dave Twigger the overdrive has new bearings, oil seals etc. some difficult to find parts from Mick Dolphin added to the list
with a gearbox rebuild kit from Canley along with a remote control kit the job is done and ready to go back in the car
the Midwest Motoring videos on YouTube were also very helpful
thanks to everyone who gave me advice and guidance on this thread
All being all a test drive awaits
best Julian
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Thank Pete, should I replace the other circlips?
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I can see that the third gear circlip is already damaged in situ, there also appears to be some dents in the input shaft ring where it meets the bearing, looks like it’s been whacked to remove the bearing and damaged in the process
are the circlips common parts, they’re out of stock at Canley?
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Is it possible to remove the main bearings from the shafts without a press?
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Is the damage to the tail spigot bush significant?
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I’ve attached a couple of photos that perhaps someone could take a look at please
the first shows the gearbox output shaft with a small ‘sleeve’ that fell off when I separated the overdrive. The edges of the sleeve feel damaged which light be ok, but I can’t find any reference to it in the WM
the second pic is of the gearbox with the top off before I dismantle to address the synchro problem
I’ve ordered a gearbox rebuild kit from Canley’s along with a remote gear change kit and a gasket and oil seal set for the overdrive which was leaking at the output end
should I use any sealant with the paper gaskets to reassemble
thanks for your help
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I agree Josef
My experience was like when we’ve bought houses based on appearance and the superficial stuff only to find generations of Barney Bodger had been there before me!
one mistake I made was to buy a non driveable Spitfire, and having restored it I don’t know what a good one should drive and feel like to be able to make a comparison
all part of life’s rich tapestry…….maybe
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I guess we’re reflecting on an era when vehicles had to be fixed quickly at the side of the road for work the next day when ‘needs must’ drove innovation and imagination using what was available and at hand at the time (personal memories here of keeping my first old banger on the road, a Cooper S, in 1976)
I remember my grandad putting a wooden floor repair into my dads Ford popular in the early 60’s
In restoring my Spitfire I have seen much evidence of innovative and unauthordox fixes done by people with considerable skills and imagination
the old days eh!
julian
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Johny
I recognise him from when he was the body shop manager who sold a Spitfire to a gullible enthusiast
looks like he’s still practicing!
Spitfire gearbox overhaul
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Hallelujah it’s in!
my engine crane gave me the ability to raise the back the engine enough and after lubricating the prop shaft telescope it moved enough to get the flanges to meet
A few more bolts and tidying up then it should be ready for a test drive this week and fingers crossed it goes well
thanks everyone
Julian