Lance Smith

A month after initiating this thread, I got back to work on the problem. Back when I swapped the driveline, I had used a used Lucas 6RA 33243J12V2674 relay to operate the overdrive per the shop manual (for an A -Type OD). On the bench, I measured 40 Ohms across the winding, W1-W2 unpowered, and 32 Ohms across the contacts C1-C2 when 12V was applied to the winding. After opening the relay case the contacts were found to be heavily blackened. The relay consistently clicked when power was applied to the winding, but the contacts were too burned to reliably supply current to operate the OD. A replacement 6RA style relay, 542-170 142169A from Moss Motors, said to be for and early Spitfire with A type OD, measured 94 Ohms across the winding, W1-W2 unpowered, and 0.1 Ohms across the contacts C1-C2 when 12V was applied to the winding. I installed the new relay and went for a drive. The OD operated reliably when switched into and out of operation repeatedly. The car is so much nicer on the highway with the OD working. Thanks for all your help understanding the issue.

I replaced my 1966 Herald 12/50/ 4spd driveline with that of a 1979 Spitfire 1500/ 4 spd +J type OD. My original Herald had no provision for overdrive or any wiring for OD. I added wiring and a 6RA relay per the wiring diagram for a 1966 Herald. The relay worked by itself on the bench. I found 40 Ohms across windings W1-W2, verified continuity across C1-C2. Recently on the bench, I retested the solenoid and it does move back and forth a little bit. I don't know how far it is supposed to move. Operation of the OD has always been intermittent. Sometimes it will engage properly, but other times it won't engage or it will disengage by itself. I have recently opened it up to replace two filters (that were clean) and easily accessible o rings. Operation remains intermittent. Is there any reason that a 6RA relay wouldn't be suitable for the J type OD? maybe there isn't sufficient current draw to operate the windings? is there a better choice of relay? thanks in advance for your comments.

I do have a homemade clip tool as shown in the manual. Should I fit the clips to the rubber tab first and then try to pull the seal and clip up on the door flange? Will the glass and bottom frame pass through the slim opening with the seals in place?

I've read the workshop manual and this thread. I have done this before, but forget how I did it. Is the outer seal, 608278, installed with the glass removed or in place? Right now I have the glass out and the wing window frame loose in the opening. I trimmed the seal tab away in two places to clear the wing window frame. I am stuck. I am seeking guidance. Thanks

I welded the crack closed and the welded a 0.060" thick patch over the top. I faired in the transition with plastic body filler and painted the surface. time to fit the new carpets.

There are cracks in both B posts of my Herald convertible emanating from the rear seat pan level. See pics. Is there a recommended procedure for fixing these cracks? Is there a repair patch kit? I am installing a new carpet kit, so now is the time to fix this. I imagine welding a strap of steel across the crack as a repair.

My 1979 Spitfire 1500 J type Overdrive gearlever, UKC3285, spherical plastic bush has split and will soon fail completely. I am looking for a replacement, but cannot find one. Most of the usual suppliers do not show a part #. The specific part that I need is a white plastic molding that fits underneath the 22G1434 Retainer. Red arrows point to the spherical plastic bush that I need. It appears to be integral with the whole UKC3285 Gearlever assembly. It doesn't look like it comes off easily, and a replacement might not be easily fit. What have others done to fix this condition? Thanks for your responses.

I don't need all the tools. I can get by with the pin spanner and thin 1" wrench that I already have. I don't have the L401, but was just curious. Yes, I am working on the O/D in the car. I have read the other O/D threads, but really I am just trying to clean the filters and renew the o rings at this time.

Is there a source for Tool L401 for removal of the relief valve piston assy?

Colin Lindsay on another forum thread showed this tool.

Steve Payne, in Courier 504, describes how he made his own removal tool by welding three bolts of the appropriate size.

The Spitfire 1500 workshop manual suggests use of tool, L.354A, which looks like a pin socket to remove the threaded plugs inside the sump. Skandix.de offers a Tool, Overdrive, 1019212, but it is out of stock at this time.

For threaded Plug removal and reinstallation, I am using an adjustable pin spanner. It has no brand markings on it. This spanner works well on the bench, but is difficult to uses with the O/D in the car between the frame rails. Once the plugs break loose, All three plugs inside the sump have approximately 0.203- 0.211" holes on a 5/8" pin center.

For solenoid removal, I am using a 30 degree thin head open end spanner from McMaster-Carr, 5414A16, 1" flats, 1/4" thick, almost 7" long. www.mcmaster.com This wrench will work on the bench and also just barely works with the O/D in the car.

What tools are being used to J overdrives?

This is the Skandix Spigot Spanner for J type Overdrives. I don't see a similar tool offered at the Triumph part suppliers.

Colin, who supplies the wrench that you showed? What do they call it? thanks

Colin, That also looks like it.

I just found this link for the pin spanner socket that I imagined. Do the usual Triumph suppliers off this? I continue to look. https://www.skandix.de/en/news/oil-filter-key-for-the-overdrive-of-m41-m410-m46-available-again/2156/

I just used my hand to twist and pull out the NKC53 suction filter. Shiny coloration on the filter screen made it look as if the screen had been pressed flat up against the pipe part restricting flow. Inside the sandwiched screen are sheet metal prongs to keep the screens from collapsing tight. I used an adjustable pin spanner to remove the three plugs. The pin spanner works fine on the bench, but not so well with the O/D in between the chassis rails. Is there a socket type pin spanner? it looks like the pins should be 3/16" (5mm) dia on 5/8" pin centers.

I got it off by carefully and gently using a sharpish chisel and hammer. Thankfully nothing was damaged. The OD is still in the car and access is limited. the sump plate is the same size as the body of the OD there, so there isn't much to tap on. Filters appear to be clean with no debris. Thanks for the responses.

What sort of gasket sealant should be used for the J Overdrive Sump cover, NKC54? I had used a non hardening adhesive type sealer and now I cant get the sump cover off. Six bolts hold the thick rigid cast sump cover in place. Would axle grease have been a better choice? non hardening blue hylomar? I live in America. I am open to suggestions on how to separate the sump cover without damage.

I had misplaced my motivation, but found it again recently. A local old fashioned radiator shop repaired my original Smiths Matrix for 100$. For O-Ring seal between valve and matrix, Canley offers their part # A147. Rimmers offers C9928A. I bought a few Rimmers C9928A O-Rings. They measure up with calipers this way: 0.82" (20.8mm) OD, 0.47" (11.9mm) ID, 0.175" (4.44mm) Wall. This is an odd size in America. I couldn't find this size O-Ring at the suppliers or the specs that I normally refer to. Rimmers C9928A O-Ring does fit the heater matrix and valve, not leaking on fitment. Thanks for the help.

thanks, Pete, Chris, and Colin. I traded msgs with Demisterman.co.uk. When I showed them my matrix sketch and dimensions, they replied that one of the matrix dimensions on their website is incorrect, and that the center distance of the tubes is a little more narrow than stock. Otherwise it would fit, and "others haven't complained", as we are often told. I chose to have a local radiator shop repair my old original heater matrix. They took off the plain end cap, rodded the tubes, flushed well resoldered the end cap, straightened the fins and reformed a distorted tube bead. I did a little pressure check in the sink with a ball pump. It seems like the leak is fixed. I am still unsure about getting a reliable seal between the valve, plain pipe and bracket. The existing seal appears to have been made by a triangular cross section rubber "O" ring and a paper dished washer. Do you suppose an ordinary "O" ring was distorted under the clamping force to form the triangular cross section? I am thinking that a rather softer durometer will allow the required distortion to for the seal. McMaster-Carr shows soft silicone high temp "O" rings, and water, steam and ethylene glycol resistant "O" rings. I need to make a wise choice of dimensions. Does anyone have a record of their successful choice here? thanks.

My 1966 Herald Smith's heater matrix has sprung a leak and drained down onto the carpet and floor making a mess. I took the heater apart, flushed it out expelling lots of brown rusty water, (not green coolant in the rest of the engine). The heater or demister had not been effective in the car, presumably because it was plugged with rusty debris. The usual Herald parts suppliers do not list the heater matrix as available. Other sources like Demisterman.co.uk, and motoradsonline.co.uk list replacement parts. Have club members had good experiences with these suppliers? There are ancillary bits required as well for replacement. What is the gasket between the heater valve and matrix?