Pbruce9393

Hi Guys, You recently pointed me in the direction of the 3-way fuse box to cure my non-operational gauges. A clean & squeeze of the "green" fuse clips did the trick, but now I am faced with the rear lights not working along with some odd intermittent faults. While trying to track this down, I witnessed the middle fuse glowing red when the headlights were switched on, and smoke emanating from the fuse box. Time for a new fuse box !!! I have read the other articles relating to fuse box upgrades, and have a 10 way one ready to install, but I have one question I need help with. As the new box has a single busbar for the 12V feed, is there any reason for the permanent 12V any more ? I assume it was previously required for the parking lights, but can the green & purple circuits from the above diagram be served from the same ignition controlled feed & distributed through teh same fuse box ? The red would need to have it's own fuse (in-line ??) and teh white ignition wires connected together, but is there any reason this would not work ?? Thanks Peter

Well - it is fixed ! Thanks for all the help & suggestions. Those of you who said it was the fuse box, please take a bow. Despite me bypassing the top fuse (in the 3-way fuse box) with 2 x crocodile clips & a piece of wire last night, all to no avail, that is what it was. Not just the fact that the fuse had blown, but as Pete Lewis suggested, a clean up with some emery paper & a squeeze together of the blades did the trick. And a new fuse, obviously. Fuses 2 & 3 are dead. My biggest mistake was thinking the fuse 1 was dead too, but I know now. Next little project will be a major tidy up of the wiring & a new diagram. Thanks again to all who helped. Peter

Update : the speedo was a loose drive connection, so fixed now The 3- way fuse box appears disconnected. Top fuse was blown, but replacing it made no difference to anything checked the 8- way one - all good (12v)where something is connected wipers, indicators & hazard warning lights are also not working Rev counter is an electronic one & has a good earth at the back, so would suggest the live feed is missing All instrument lights (that actually have a bulb fitted) are working Next task will be to check live feeds to rev counter & voltage stabiliser. Tracing the wires in the rats nest behind the dashboard is a nightmare. Previous mods are very poor - very untidy, wrong colours crimped together, many disconnected / spare cores, etc, etc. Some are taped off & some are just cut, so it is almost impossible to figure out what was left dis before & which one is the new culprit ! But - will get there Peter

Thanks for all the ideas. The fuse box has been replaced in the past as there is now an 8-way one behind the dashboard at the passenger side, albeit a long time ago, as it is quite a dated one. I did check the output side of all the fuses, and all registered 12V What I didn't do was to check the 3-way fuse box in the engine bay. I assumed that had been replaced by the 8-way one, but of course maybe it is still in operation in some shape or form. It does have an electronic tacho, so could be a linked failure of fuel & temp gauges if there is a missing live or earth From all the comments, you have convinced me that the speedo is almost certainly a separate fault It was a bright day yesterday, so I need to check the panel lights again, as I can't say if they were working or not I guess I also need to check other things to see what else is not working that I haven't noticed yet Thanks again & I will keep you posted on the outcome of further wire tracing & testing tonight. Peter

I am confused. My GT6 gauges (speedo, rev counter, fuel gauge & temp gauge) were all working normally, until I recently replaced the gearbox tunnel with a new one. Now all of them are dead. I assume that I have accidentally pulled a wire off somewhere, but alas a PO has left the dashboard wiring in my car in a messy & non-standard state, and I cannot find any offending disconnected wires ( that weren’t there before). Despite an extensive search through the forum & various wiring diagrams, I cannot find any one reason why all of these would fail simultaneously. I would expect the Rev counter & speedo to fail individually, or the fuel/temp gauges to fail together, but not all four together. Can anyone advise if there is likely to be one single cause ( a disconnected earth, for example) of this, or am I looking for more than one fault ? Any pointers or suggestions will be a great help Thanks Peter

Great - thank you Nigel

That is great, thanks. Any chance you could provide the dimensions of the bracket itself as well please, including the height at the front & rear ? Peter

Hi, I bought a GT6 Mk 3 last year, fitted with a 2500TC engine. I recently took the engine out for a re-build, and as part of the exercise the radiator had to come out too. It was at that point I realised that the radiator brackets were actually welded to the chassis, not bolted to the (non-existent) brackets that are supposed to be there. I would like to re-install brackets before the radiator goes back in, but can anyone advise the exact position / dimensions of where these brackets need to be. I believe that where the welds are is about right, and that there should be room for a little height increase (it was level with the bottom of the thermostat casing) but I am concerned that new brackets may lift the radiator too high, causing it to foul on the bonnet when closed. If I move it back "down the slope" a little it will reduce the height, but there is not much room to do that because of the engine / fan. Any advise on the positioning of these brackets will be most welcome. Also - any ideas if / where new ready made brackets may be available ? At all the usual suppliers they appear to be "no longer available". Peter

Both wires for the horn are white !!! I also have numerous "pairs" of pink wires going to various switches I think a serious re-wire job is required in the longer term

There is only one earth wire attached - for the horn. The blue & white ones are in the background & are not attached

I have beared the cold & checked tonight. Well done guys. That is exactly what it is. It works if pushed in first (which requires a second hand to push against due to precarious installation) as suggested. thanks again for clearing the mystery up Peter

A trip counter reset ! I didn’t check that. I’ll have a look tomorrow & see if that is it. Thanks

Hi, I’ve been trying to tidy up the dashboard wiring in my GT6, as previous work appears to be a bit haphazard to say the least. There are no parcel shelves fitted, only blank panels to conceal the rats nest of wiring behind. I have already found what turned out to be an ignition cut off switch hanging loose by cable tie behind the passenger side, and I also have this at the drivers side. It is some sort of rotary adjuster for something, but what ? It connects to a metal tube, which disappears into the back of the driver side dashboard. Without removing the facia, it is impossible to see where it goes to. At first I thought about it being a dimmer for the gauges, but it appears to do nothing when “adjusted”. Any ideas ?

That’s it all back together again & all gears back in action. As you guys predicted, the reverse circlip was the difficult bit, and I had bits left over. The red & white washers did not fit on the gearstick at all, but the hole at the base of the gearstick looked good. Thanks again for all your help & advice. Peter

Got it all out today. This is all that was there.........only one (almost disintegrated) washer, and no bottom bush at all. Now awaiting the arrival of the kit. Peter

Well - the rear tailgate lock was an easier fix than anticipated. It had previously been installed 90 deg out, so that the locking pin could not locate in the locking slot. Re-installed the right way round & working 100% now. Peter

Thanks everyone for your responses. I’ll get a kit ordered & give it a go. Peter

Thanks everyone. I’ll try all your suggestions this weekend before ordering anything. Peter

Yes - by the looks of it by the restorer mentioned above. Peter

I have recently bought a GT6 Mk3 which has almost immediately developed a problem with gear selection & a lack of springiness for reverse. There are a few threads on here about the spring cap wearing away and/or the circlip coming loose, which describe the problem & solution exactly. I’ll be having a look at it this weekend, and hoping that it is an easy fix, but there is some debate about some of the kits actually being part of the problem in the first place. Any recommendation abou which is the best kit to buy . Thanks Peter

I have recently bought a GT6 Mk3 & I have an issue with the locks on the drivers door & the rear tailgate. The drivers door won’t open unless the keys is used in conjunction with the door handle, and the rear tailgate doesn’t lock at all. I found these on E-Bay : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacement-Door-Lock-Set-for-TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-GT6-STAG-TR7-2-new-barrels-keys/182228489628 Can anyone advise me if these barrels are compatible with both lock, or is the rear tailgate a different one. Also - any recommendations of anywhere else to buy them ? Thanks Peter

Paul, Thanks for the info. I guess the photos on their site settle the question of what colour it was last & interesting for me to see it as a red car. Peter

Do you know what the actual colour is? Colin, Yes - it is not a Triumph colour. It is Lotus carbon grey, code B137. I think it was green before the grey, and red before that, as can be seen in the engine bay ( lot of red in the spare wheel compartment also). It now has a red interior, with black carpets. I hope that was done after the grey respray, as it would have been hideous with a green car ! Peter

Paul, I bought this very car 3 weeks ago, in Norfolk & only joined the club 2 weeks ago, and the forum 2 days ago. It has been red and green in the past, but it is definitely grey now. The guy I got it from bought it in the Liverpool area in 2015, and there are receipts for extensive welding work in 2013 that the previous owner had done. There was more extensive work done to the floor pan in 2016. I have numerous receipts which I can check, but I am not at home until the weekend, so it’ll have to wait till then. I had been looking for a while, but bought it at short notice while holidaying in Norfolk. I live in Aberdeen, 530 miles away, and drove the car home with no problems aside from a couple of overheating threats when stuck in traffic. It is in need of some TLC, which I intend to give it, but all in all I think it is a pretty solid car. I can update further as I find out more about it Peter