Andyone

Lots of Plus Gas applications and allow to soak over a few days. Then try. If they are still stubborn then heat is your friend. Andy

Build your own from fresh using the correct wire colours which will help a lot down the line if you need to trace faults. The OEM looms were made to a price and wire materials have moved on 50 years plus the copper within the wires will be black with oxidation which will run deep if you strip the insulation back increasing resistance. Basically most old looms are on borrowed time and need replacing. I'm in the process of doing the same for my TR6 as the cost of a basic loom with mods and relays was ridiculous. Use a good ratchet crimper, dab of solder the joints and heat shrink the join, slide on the rubber terminal boot and then adhesive heat shrink that. Takes time but the results are better than factory plus you can put in as many extra fuses and relays as you wish with some redundancy. All the relays/mods can be hidden under the dash to keep the OEM look if you wish. In the end I think cost wise my loom will be around the cost of buying a basic loom without mods but will be upgraded and of a better standard plus I will have the satisfaction of knowing where everything is! Andy

Needs lots of electricity which we don't have. Nuclear yes but there's too many NIMBI's to ever have enough built.

Until electric matches a diesel for range ie 450 miles and there is a good changing network needed until range is extended then not = big waste of money I will be sticking to fossil fuel along with those running business fleets as people get paid to travel not wait in a queue while waiting for the car to charge. This presumes the national grid can supply enough energy in the first place! I think petrol will be around longer than 25 years. Andy

I'm in for changing the oil and filter given the investment rebuilding an engine.(PI 1969) My cam is std from a new blank (Kent) and lifters/cam bearings are new along with pistons/rings and bearings. So the cam will need running in but I'm not sure running it static at 2000-2500 revs is going to help the piston rings seat. I'd normally start/warm, check for leaks then take a car straight out on the road take up to 50-60mph and snap the throttle shut coast down 5-6 times, granted newer cars than a TR6. Andy So from what you are saying cam first, bottom end second. I wonder with the advances in machining if the tolerances on a well rebuilt engine are now better than those achieved 50 years ago even with old materials found in the block. Bearings are likely of better materials along with pistons/rings making running in less problematic. Triumph probably didn't spec for engines to last much more than 60K before some kind of rebuild.

Hi all I'm in the same position of rebuilding my TR6 lump which will be the first Triumph engine I've done so sorry fro hyjacking this thread but it might help later on. Seems a bit counter intuitive at first start to run for 20mins at 2000rpm for a complete build. If its a complete rebuild with rebore/pistons and rings etc then in the past I start the engine, quick check for leaks, check the timing and its out on the road to seat the pistons and rings by accelerating to 50mph or so and snapping the throttle shut coast down to 30mph or so and repeat 5/6 times to seat the rings check for leaks drive for 50 mile using the whole rev range and then change the oil. The cam receives no special attention other than assembly lube (Clevite). if it was a retro fit to already running engine then yes I get the above. I wonder if triumph worried so much when the engine was first run? Or was it a case of simply use and change the oil after 500 miles or so. So what takes precedence running in? The bottom end and the rest of motor or the cam? Interesting to hear what others do for running in a completley rebuild engine like this post I suspect is going to be. Andy

Cheers Chris you learn something every day! Its a snow drift!

Slow worm = legless lizard Grass snake and adder only true snakes in UK and all absent from ireland

Lately had cause to look into replacing rocker shaft assembly for my TR6 as all the rockers and shaft was badly worn. The OEM rockers were never bushed its now an upgrade offered now by Moss, Rimmers and more recently by Chris Whittor and need a clearance of 0.001" with a turfied shaft. Un-bushed rockers are also available. On stripping my old shaft some of them were very tight with similar grooves to those seen here so I'm not surprised that they could possibly cockle on the shaft and seize especially if the oil supply was poor.

+1 had mine off in a jiffy