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Andyone

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Posts posted by Andyone

  2. Loom: buy or diy?

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Build your own from fresh using the correct wire colours which will help a lot down the line if you need to trace faults. The OEM looms were made to a price and wire materials have moved on 50 years plus the copper within the wires will be black with oxidation which will run deep if you strip the insulation back increasing resistance. Basically most old looms are on borrowed time and need replacing. 

    I'm in the process of doing the same for my TR6 as the cost of a basic loom with mods and relays was ridiculous. Use a good ratchet crimper, dab of solder the joints and heat shrink the join, slide on the rubber terminal boot and then adhesive heat shrink that. Takes time but the results are better than factory plus you can put in as many extra fuses and relays as you wish with some redundancy. All the relays/mods can be hidden under the dash to keep the OEM look if you wish.

    In the end I think cost wise my loom will be around the cost of buying a basic loom without mods but will be upgraded and of a better standard plus I will have the satisfaction of knowing where everything is!

    Andy

  4. Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!

    in Engine

    Posted

    Until electric matches a diesel for range ie 450 miles and there is a good changing network needed until range is extended then not = big waste of money I will be sticking to fossil fuel along with those running business fleets as people get paid to travel not wait in a queue while waiting for the car to charge. 
     

    This presumes the national grid can supply enough energy in the first place! I think petrol will be around longer than 25 years.

    Andy

  5. Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!

    in Engine

    Posted

    On 14/02/2021 at 09:54, Roger K said:

    If you have fitted a new cam and lifters, the break-in procedure is necessary.  If you're reusing the old cam and lifters it's not.  It's to do with work-hardening the lobes of a new cam.

    I think modern materials and lubricants may have changed the process needed - I don't know what Triumph used to do, but I've seen too many V8s trashed with cam failure over the last few years to want to take the risk.  If fitting a new flat tappet cam (solid, like the Triumphs, or hydraulic like most V8s - but roller cams don't need it), my routine is to do the 20-min break-in at 2-2500rpm without stopping unless absolutely necessary, and then shut off without allowing it to idle.  Change the oil filter and run again, this time varying the revs, and fine-tuning the motor - maybe some jet changes with a fixed-jet four-barrel carb.  If OK I'll try to give it just four or five road miles, then drain the oil, change the filter, check the valve clearances (if solid), and retorque the heads if appropriate for the gaskets/studs used.  You don't need to do 500 miles before retorquing - just a couple of full heat cycles is enough.

    Then, after 500 miles, another filter change and maybe oil as well.  And another filter change at 1000 miles.  The running-in process after that will depend on what bearing clearances etc. were chosen at assembly.

    If the system's working properly, changing oil filters is more important than changing oil as any metal particles will be caught by the filter and should not be circulating.

    Some will think this is overkill, but it all comes down to how much you've spent on the engine.

    I'm in for changing the oil and filter given the investment rebuilding an engine.(PI 1969)

    My cam is std from a new blank (Kent) and lifters/cam bearings are new along with pistons/rings and bearings. So the cam will need running in but I'm not sure running it static at 2000-2500 revs is going to help the piston rings seat. I'd normally start/warm, check for leaks then take a car straight out on the road take up to 50-60mph and snap the throttle shut coast down 5-6 times, granted newer cars than a TR6.

    Andy

    So from what you are saying cam first, bottom end second.

    I wonder with the advances in machining if the tolerances on a well rebuilt engine are now better than those achieved 50 years ago even with old materials found in the block. Bearings are likely of better materials along with pistons/rings making running in less problematic. Triumph probably didn't spec for engines to last much more than 60K before some kind of rebuild. 

  6. Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi all

    I'm in the same position of rebuilding my TR6 lump which will be the first Triumph engine I've done so sorry fro hyjacking this thread but it might help later on.

    Seems a bit counter intuitive at first start to run for 20mins at 2000rpm for a complete build.

    If its a complete rebuild with rebore/pistons and rings etc then in the past I start the engine, quick check for leaks, check the timing and its out on the road to seat the pistons and rings by accelerating to 50mph or so and snapping the throttle shut coast down to 30mph or so and repeat 5/6 times to seat the rings check for leaks drive for 50 mile using the whole rev range and then change the oil.

    The cam receives no special attention other than assembly lube (Clevite). if it was a retro fit to already running engine then yes I get the above. I wonder if triumph worried so much when the engine was first run? Or was it a case of simply use and change the oil after 500 miles or so.

    So what takes precedence running in? The bottom end and the rest of motor or the cam?

    Interesting to hear what others do for running in a completley rebuild engine like this post I suspect is going to be.

    Andy

     

  9. Rocker Arm broken

    in Engine

    Posted

    Lately had cause to look into replacing rocker shaft assembly for my TR6 as all the rockers and shaft was badly worn. The OEM rockers were never bushed its now an upgrade offered now by Moss, Rimmers and more recently by Chris Whittor and need a clearance of 0.001" with a turfied shaft. Un-bushed rockers are also available.

    On stripping my old shaft some of them were very tight with similar grooves to those seen here so I'm not surprised that they could possibly cockle on the shaft and seize especially if the oil supply was poor.

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