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BPT last won the day on November 6 2020

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  • Location
    NH USA
  • Cars Owned
    1968 TR250 and 1970 GT6+

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  1. I took a shot again at making the "semi-clear" lens for this dome light assembly. After a number of attempts, I think I have a lens that is good enough that I'd use it in my GT6. It's not exactly the same as the OEM lens, I altered the design a bit, but I was able to create it with a semi-clear center section and "frosted" on each side of the center. For the purists it may not be adequate. It actually passes more light than the OEM lens. I used a filament called "T-Glase" which has some glass like qualities. The lens rotates just like the OEM lens does so depending on where it is rotated, there is a different lighting effect. I prefer to use a 27 diode LED bulb. This "T-Glase" may be useful for other NLA lenses for classic cars. It does come in several colors including red but no Yellow. Printing isn't fast but until someone takes on the task of injection molding certain lenses, this may be helpful. BPT
  2. Agree, Same person has posted on our website on this side of the pond. Porsche and Mercedes already have a catalog of 3D printed parts for their classic cars. He's in Germany so might be better if he contacted them for information. BPT
  3. YIKES!! There is a new listing on ebay (US) for a "new" old stock dome light assembly. They want $200.00 plus shipping. These lights must be worth their weight in gold now. This is ridiculous. BPT
  4. Hope someone purchases that assembly. They don't come up for sale very often. That's an excellent price. BPT
  5. Now is someone would find a source for the clear lens this GT6 light assembly could be taken off the endangered species list. The printed lens just isn't good enough. BPT
  6. Aidan, Took some time this afternoon to finish up this project. Made up the terminals so I now have complete 3D printed bases. Wish those original clear lenses weren't so hard to come by. There is a club member in the US that has injection mold experience and I'm hoping he'll take on the challenge of making nice clear lenses. When I can get hold of some white ASA filament I'll be able to make some white bases. BPT
  7. Here is the link to this new facility. BPT https://www.thedrive.com/news/38154/gm-opens-its-first-major-3d-printing-facility-for-production-car-parts
  8. Peter, the possibilities are wide open for 3D printing. Young people looking for a future career should be looking at engineering and 3D curriculum. GM in the US just opened up it's first dedicated 3D printing facility. BPT
  9. Hi John, thanks for the link. Designing parts that can be 3D printed in metal is quite a science. I've looked into this and there are several companies here in the US and I'm sure across the pond that provide the service but from what I've read is rather expensive. The material (filaments) used are metal infused (sintered) and there are precise "shrinkage" calculations required in the model. The finished 3D print is then sent off to an outfit that has the equipment to "bake" the part and the soft filament is melted out and the metal is fused together. Materials as strong as titanium can be done. MatterHackers is one company in California that provides the metal infused filaments and has the equipment to finish the part. But from what I've researched is likely too expensive for our British car enthusiasts. Porsche frequently uses this process for some of their classic car 3D printed parts and they have bigger pocket books than we do. Better plastic type materials are constantly being developed that will be nearly as good as aluminum strength. On one of my printers that can reach high temperatures (300 C) I routinely print Nylon Cast Plate (13,400 psi tensile) filament and PC (polycarbonate) which are very strong filaments. There are real expensive filaments like PEEK that the space program uses but requires very high temperatures to process (400C and up) and those printers cost $10,000 and up. For now, I stay mostly with making simple parts like knobs. polyurethane gaskets and other parts that need to function but don't require structural safety needs. As I mentioned before, I've produced over 85 separate part numbers for Triumphs, GT6-Spitfire-TR6-TR250,TR7-TR8. One of my printers is usually always running. My wife thinks I'm addicted to 3D printing. She's probably right. But on the other hand, when she's needed something made for the kitchen or other projects around the house, I design and print what she needs so she's happy. BPT
  10. Appears that the TSSC group already has the talent to start. You have Jim-GT6, he has the design skills, John D has the organizing ability. I'm sure there are many others that will be able to help out. Keep in mind that the people that have the equipment will need printers that can use the more sophisticated materials. The basic printers use PLA material which is OK for prototypes but useless for any car parts. This material will deform in sunlight so the printers used must be able to use PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon, PC. Material choice is very important depending on the part function. Size does matter here also. Most all printers can handle a part 8" square but the larger the part the more expensive the part becomes and the bigger the machine required. There are costs associated with printing, the machines require maintenance, electrical costs, filament materials vary etc so most can't do the printing for free. If you do send parts out to the commercial vendors, I think you will find their costs very high as Aidan found out. So keeping your efforts in house will be essential. BPT
  11. Aidan, here is the base printed in ASA. Quality is quite nice. BPT
  12. Aidan, I've got a base in the printer now, using black ASA which is a very good material for this type of part. I'll post a picture when it's complete. I checked to see if white ASA is currently available from my filament source but it won't be in stock until late March. I use a certain high quality brand not made in China. Once I have this white filament, I'll print a white base and see how it comes out. I needed some white ASA anyway for other projects I have planned. Then if you still need or want a base, we'll discuss it then. Cost of postage to the UK costs a bit more but this part is pretty small and shouldn't cost an arm or leg. In the mean time, you may want to take your broken light carefully apart and see what you need to do to make up the electrical contacts. Look at the "C" shaped retainers I show in my pictures above. You have to very carefully grind off the "mushroom" head of each of the 6 studs. When Triumph assembled these lights, they melted the very top of the stud to create a mushroom head. Remove those heads and the C retainer will then come out and the lens will be released from the base. BPT
  13. Aidan, I've actually got as far as making up the base terminals and have the copper rivets ready to cut to length, just haven't taken the time to finish up this project. Lots of 3D projects I have in process. I have a LED festoon lamp that I'm using and have tested and the illumination is MUCH better than the OEM lamp. Pete, I did do some searching to find a suitable aftermarket lamp for my GT6 and there were a few inexpensive ones that might have worked but I wanted to keep my GT6 as close to stock as possible. This has been one of those fun projects. 3D printing has so many possibilities to help keep our British cars healthy. Just for example, this base part printed using ASA plastic (cousin to ABS plastic) takes about 1-1/2 hrs to print. Material cost to print--about 45 cents. My cost to just print the base--less than $10.00 So that is much better than what the commercial business will do. Of course there is a little more to it than this---assembling the terminals etc etc. but you get the idea. 3D printing has so much to offer our older cars. There must be someone in the TSSC-UK organization that is doing the same thing I'm doing. There are several of us on this side of the pond doing this for the Triumph community. BPT
  14. I should get back on to this project and finish it. I'm going to put one in the printer now using ASA plastic to experiment with the different material. I rarely share my CAD & STL files, they take time to create and then get shared around the world. I don't use a scanner, I re-engineer the parts. I've created over 80 parts for my GT6 and TR250 and use the funds when I sell a few parts to keep my printers running. Sorry to be so selfish but it does take certain long earned skills to do this. BPT
  15. Aidan, here is a better picture of just the light base. Under side and top side. I haven't finished this project yet. Since these are fairly rare parts, my plan was to produce a few just in case there was a need. Late last year I was able to find a couple decent complete light assemblies and sent one to someone in the UK. Once in a while these show up on ebay over here. The light in my GT6 has the black base. But you are correct that these are 50 years old now and getting more brittle with age. There are better plastics available now for 3D printing. I was in the process of making a complete spare light assembly for my GT6 just in case I broke mine. I haven't printed any white bases yet. Also a picture of the 3D printed retainer rings. These can get damaged during the dis-assembly of the base unit. BPT
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