avivalasvegas
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Posts posted by avivalasvegas
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1 hour ago, Iain T said:
Looks like the welding is good quality and not as we used to call it pigeon s**t.
Iain
Agreed. It's far superior to any radiator I've ever come across (and I've had a few rebuilt!) Also weighs well under <3kgs dry!
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Radtec is a work of art!
Weighs < 3 kgs. Superbly built. Powdercoated aluminum. Costs less than a recore.
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I was able to get a ~15% discount by contacting Radtec directly. Still frightfully expensive but atleast I know I won't need to worry about leaks for a while. Seriously well constructed piece of kit.
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1 hour ago, Peter Truman said:
To recore an original brass/copper Rad will cost well over $400, I keep an old one just in CASE! but it's a no brainer I'd replace with a cheap PRC Ally when the time comes!
I've had horrible experiences with Chinese radiators. Almost always the neck near the inlet fails and/ or leaks appear out of nowhere. I'll never buy another Chinese part again.
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16 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
had a local herald rad recored by a local repairer for £140 in 2022
pete
That's one hell of a deal. I can't find anyone who'll do it for less than twice that!
Given how the rad is the weak link in the cooling system, I'm tempted to splurge on the aluminum radiator but wasn't sure if the car would noticeably cool better?
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Well, a couple years on and the ol radiator has sprung a leak. Aaron's radiators quoted me £395 + VAT for a recore!!!
I suppose a Radtech aluminium replacement makes the most sense!
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I'd recommend the Bosch S5 battery and the AES (EU) alternator. I have both in my GT6 Mk2.
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Are the Shacktune bearing kits compatible with the 2000? I know they are with the GT6 and Vitesse and eliminate the slack there.
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Just fitted Canley's Trunionless conversion and found it to be money well spent. Dramatically reduced steering effort (feels like tyres went from under-inflated to over-inflated) and a more pliant front side ride quality.
The peace of mind is also a plus!
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Some major upgrades completed today:
1. Canley's Trunionless kit is in.
2. Shacktune wheel bearing spacers + Timken bearings
3. New AES alternator & belt.
4. Liqui Moly MOS2 15W40 Motor oil change
Early impressions are greatly reduced steering effort and a somewhat softer ride quality. The new MOS2 motor oil seems to suit the car really well.
This marks the end of all known planned improvements to the GT6 (save the distributor). It's been a fun, eventful 2 years and I hope to be able to enjoy the car from anywhere but the side of the road.
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We discovered that the Lucas alternator had been rebuilt once already and so Dale and I decided to put it out of its misery and replace with an AES alternator - apparently Dale has used these on multiple vehicles without issue, to date. He did recommend an extra charging wire directly to the battery to save the original wiring harness when 70A charging takes place. The new unit did not clear the bonnet (we found out the hard way) and so an original GT6 bracket and belt were used to lower it closer to the original mounting position.
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I got the Bosch S5 (5 year warranty) from the ebay store (20% off)
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Strangely, upon cold start today, the ignition light has disappeared. Looks like the ol Lucas is putting up a fight.
Perhaps the aux fan + headlights + much higher capacity battery caused the issue?
Will look to replace it ASAP.
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4 minutes ago, clive said:
You can get the 40A version for £80ish. You do need a plug and a ring terminal, new belt and an hour to fit it.
That's strange - I see the 40A version for the same price!
https://brise.co.uk/product/denso-40a-compact-motorsport-alternator-5305/?v=79cba1185463
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23 minutes ago, clive said:
I think most of the new "lucas style" alternators are variable in quality. The parts to fix them are similarly problematic, a friend had his one repaired with a new recitier for it to fail withing a few months.
The reliable answer is a brand new, proper brand alternator. The Brise ones are excellent, but the baby 40A they supply is just a Denso. And 40A will power a car no problem, having doen the RBRR twice with one. That is 48hrs nonstop, half with lights on, sometimes wipers, heater gently wafting. Never an issue, so 70A is massive unless you have a hefty extra current draw.
New denso 40A are usually around £100 on fleabay, sometimes less. Not difficult to fit.
https://brise.co.uk/product/denso-60a-compact-motorsport-alternator-5305plus/?v=79cba1185463
I see a 60A for the same price and weight. Looks like it would fit just as easy?
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Battery voltage is ~13+ Volts. Belt is tight - no slippage.
I wonder if the Brise unit is a bolt on or requires modification? Ideally, I’d like this one to be an install and forget unit.
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Greetings!
On our way home, with the aux fan and headlights on, I noticed our ignition light had come on. After 5 or so minutes, it went off, only to come on again before we made it home.
Battery is a Bosch S5 purchased 4 months ago. I haven’t overheated so wondering if it was the alternator or something else?
If it is the alternator, I’m guessing a top quality replacement 70A unit is on the cards. Any recommendations?
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Greetings!
I'm looking for a air filter housing to adapt over my SU HS6 carbs. Looking for a complete housing, relatively rust free with the ducting to the front.
Many thanks in advance!
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The Canley kit appears very well made!
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On 13/06/2022 at 19:03, Stratton Jimmer said:
Only just spotted your question. Apologies for the delayed answer but it is no - there is no added under-bonnet insulation. Everything is as shown in the three photographs. That bonnet is a Mk4 Spit bonnet with the bulge from the original bonnet welded in.
Many thanks! I checked again today: no clearance issues. 🤷♂️
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Highly recommend Redline MT-90 for the transmission. The improvement in shift quality and smoothness, over new, run-of-the-mill GL4 fluid, was noticeable.
For motor oil, I will be filling up Liqui Moly MOS2 20W50 (given the believed superiority of MOS2 over ZDDP), and a German oil filter, at the next oil change given the improvements in idle noise and low speed acceleration I have experienced with my other Classics. If you're still in the ZDDP camp, Valvoline VR1 20W50 is hard to beat.
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5 hours ago, clive said:
The trunnionless kit affects the front suspension by softening the effective spring rate.
Both my spitfires have 480lb springs, my yellow car (trunnionless) feels far more compliant than the red (original style trunnions).
The spacers should just tighten the front up a smidge.
Ah this is music to my ears! As I get older, I find myself searching for any way possible to soften the GT6's ride!
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Same here. And the Trunionnless kit too!
I’ve heard that there is a slight improvement in handling as well?
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Next reliability upgrades planned is the Canley Classics "trunionless" conversion kit. No warning signs just yet but I have heard horror stories of failure and lots of positive feedback on the kit.
Jury is still out on the alloy stub and hub front axle kit kit which claims to make bearing care easier.
Any experience with these?
Anyone use “the flying Dutchman’s” 6 impeller water pump?
in Cooling System
Posted
I’m sure.