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avivalasvegas

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Everything posted by avivalasvegas

  1. Cost me £150 a couple years ago for the upgraded core. I did a citric acid flush with the old radiator on (highly recommended to get the gunk and rust out of the cooling system) and then replaced all the hoses, cleaned and polished the housings myself and added a new thermostat. The difference was astounding - the ol' girl warms up the cabin within 5 minutes on the coldest winter day and stays at 90 degrees (it's a diesel) no matter what I throw at it. Even at 88mph (top speed for the 240D) Who knows what prices are today but I went with it for originality. That said, for the GT6, the reduced weight of the aluminum radiator and improved cooling are attractive.
  2. I experience the same symptoms on my MK2 GT6. Fortunately, the aux fan appears to work well to keep the thermostat firmly at the halfway mark. Would switching to a Radtec aluminum radiator remove the need for an additional fan? They do claim "a 40% upgrade in cooling when compared to the original."
  3. Compared to me, you are definitely more experienced. You're advocating not being preventative with the Master Cylinder?
  4. Greetings, I have a Girling Brake Master cylinder currently equipped on my MK2 GT6. The bulkhead area underneath the master cylinders has corroded due to a Clutch cylinder leak (now replaced with a NOS Girling). Now would be the opportune time to either rebuild or replace the Master Cylinder. I have a few questions for the more experienced: 1) Rebuild with new seal kit or replace? 2) If replace, should I purchase another Girling or a TRW MC? 3) If TRW, anyone know where those are manufactured? (No Chinese parts on my vehicles). Many thanks!
  5. Just picked the Bosch S5 075 battery up for ~£62 after 20% discount via ebay. One left incase anyone is looking.
  6. Sadly Nigels mic malfunctioned mid filming. That said, everybody’s a critic!
  7. I was able to procure the plain ol' W78 plugs. Made in Germany - impressive! After 250 miles of motorway driving, so far, the plugs have yet to oil up. I'm hoping I can make it to my next oil change....
  8. See link above in the first post. It will feature on the same channel (clicking New vs. Old should show you the new episode after it debuts). For anyone wondering, the episode will feature a certain well known TSSC Forum Member. I'm not going to ruin the surprise just yet If we manage to secure donations/ contributions via the links in the description, I believe a TR5 is definitely planned to take on an E type. Or a Jensen CV8.
  9. Just a heads up - GT6 episode will air on YouTube tomorrow. I'll be sure to post the link. Your support is always appreciated.
  10. NOS Preferred but a cared for tacho with no cosmetic damage will also suffice. My existing unit would shame John Travolta on his best night, and needs to be rebuilt. Happy to sell it back to you when complete (if needed). Pls DM me if available. Thanks for reading!
  11. I had that same question about the X (also discontinued btw). I believe the Super 4 is part of the same product name i.e. Super 4 W78/ W78X
  12. Yes, I read quite a few. The consensus appeared to be that the W78 was generally noticeably superior over the NGK's I am currently running.
  13. Sadly, that would spell trouble as the W78 are discontinued. I've managed to assemble a set by purchasing from multiple sellers but I fear another alternative best plug will need to be found.
  14. First check was the carbs. No flooding detected. New needle valves were very recently installed. It is our current belief that increased crankcase pressure, caused by the incorrect carb setup when I purchased the car, combined with the rich idle mixture, has caused the plugs to oil up. I did a 100 mile trip to Canterbury and back today, often hitting 70mph, and the car performed flawlessly. If the plugs drown in oil again, then I'd be worried. Many thanks! I'm not sure what's so special about those plugs vs the regular WR78 but I trust the wisdom of this crowd and have ordered a replacement set.
  15. Sadly only 2 plugs available on there (and anywhere online) After replacing the 2 oil soaked plugs, the car is driving fine (for now!). Shifts much better too!
  16. Few developments today: 1) It would appear a previous owner had installed magnetic drain plugs in the gearbox and motor. Fortunately, the metal Christmas tree did not reappear. The transmission does not appear to be deteriorating. 2) Switching to Redline MT90 has led to noticeably smoother gear shifting, even when compared to the recently changed conventional fluid. Differential fluid change pending. 3) Compression test yielded a positive result. Completing the auto-rx additive treatment should result in a further improvement. 142 140 135 140 135 137
  17. Just to circle back on the Auto Rx treatment, this is an image taken today when my valve cover was removed. Compression test results below. Please bear in mind that I’ve only completed half of the treatment so far. The rinse over the next 3K miles will raise compression further and engine internals will be shiny. This has consistently been my experience with 5 previous vehicles, Classic and modern. compression test here yielded: 142 140 135 140 135 137
  18. W78 do not appear available anymore? The GT6 now consumes hardly any oil at all, which is most perplexing. Coolant is clear so the head gasket would also appear to be intact. I am currently mid-way through my Auto-RX engine oil treatment. This is the most effective method I have come across to renew motor seals safely, if a bit slowly, without the need for a rebuild, should that be the issue.
  19. The GT6 was rolling road tuned in March. That said, Dale agrees and leaned the mixture by half a turn. The choke is definitely in need of rebuilding but it does appear to fully return the jets. Will check more closely now.
  20. At Moordale Motors as I type this. It became clear the carbs are not flooding but the symptoms above continue with terrible fuel consumption & black smoke added to the list. A quick compression test here yielded: 142 140 135 140 135 137 So compression is good with <5% variance between cylinders (despite the oily plugs). New plugs = all 6 cylinders now firing. Investigations continue to determine why Plugs 3 & 4 are so oily and especially no. 4 blew oil out when it came out.
  21. I've had great success bringing what I thought were worn engines back from the brink using Auto-Rx, a solvent free, slow acting metal cleaner added to engine oil. 3K miles then a oil/ filter change and then 3K miles later, increased compression. As long as metal isn't worn, ARX will work. Then, I switch to Liqui Moly MOS2 20W50 oil. Worked like a charm on every classic!
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