avivalasvegas

What started as an occasional gradual stall at idle (without choke) and a slight petrol smell has now worsened to the above symptoms. The car was rolling road tuned <1000 miles ago and ran beautifully. Today, the motor wouldn't stop shaking through the rev range and it felt like the car was running on fewer cylinders. Would be good to know what the most likely culprits could be so that I can troubleshoot?

Again, no disagreements on the merits of silicon vs Chinese rubber. I'll be sure replace all hoses at one go in a couple years. For now, all hoses look and feel supple except the lower hose.

I'm curious to know how long the rubber hose lasts. It is, to your point, lacking in quality. But for <£20 (vs. £140), is a bit more pragmatic.

Ended up buying this hose. Not silicon but £50 cheaper than the club shop set. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRH513

I would NEVER avoid the MOT. An attentive owner + caring mechanic + MOT tester = The best Classic car insurance policy.

Finally, a black bezel, orangey red needle vacuum gauge, ideally suited for the Mk2. Now all I need to know is what else is needed to install it?

Nick, The bottle says "for offroad use". I don't suppose this made you wonder if it was suited for daily road use on the Autobahn?

https://www.classic-oils.net/Content/7/About-us

Just heard back from Redline US. "In your rear differential the MT-90 would be recommended, though the LightWeight ShockProof would be an option, a different fluid than called for." when I asked if LightWeight ShockProof was yellow metal safe, I got this back. "the ShockProof gear oils contain a copper deactivator so are safe with brass, bronze or copper though contain a friction modifier so could be too slippery for synchros and one reason they aren’t recommended for most street applications." I suppose it's 2 liters of MT90 in the overdrive transmission and 1 liter of lightweight shockproof in the diff. On the plus side, free postage

Thanks for sharing. Do you know the correct viscosity for the Red Line Shockproof for the differential?

Roger’s shock proof oil does not specify it is yellow metal safe. The MT90 oil in the first post on this thread does. Both are made by Redline. I’m guessing that means I go with MT90 in the tranny and diff?

Interesting! So a different viscosity in the differential and a shockproof one at that?

Sorry lads - my goal here is preservation of the gearbox i.e. less shiny metal in my old fluid. I've had great success with Amsoil ATF in my Classic Mercedes, so am a believer in synthetics from specialists brands like Redline and Amsoil, in the differential and gearbox. The above oil is yellow metal safe and rated GL4. Cost aside, wise move? Is it the right viscosity?

I have a feeling we're going to get alot of the usual "don't use synthetics in a GT6" comments but I couldn't help but notice that this article endorses Redline MT 90 transmission fluid. I took a look at the product details and it clearly is safe for brass internals. Given the Christmas tree decorations that came with of my recent fluid change, I'm keen to find the best oil for the job. Has anyone tried this one or Amsoil's equivalent in their gearbox?

I don't intend on using engine oil outside of my engine- not sure where this tangent came from but it'll likely be Dale's Smith & Allen gear oil or a Millers product. Anyone know of a good magnetic sump drain plug?

Dale shared this as well for overdrive transmissions. He also shared that the previous owner was very wise to swap from the D type overdrive to the J type. He was not opposed to using this MOS2 additive in the rear differential. I have used this on other cars with great success & will try it next.

The GT6 is back. The following have been installed 1) Koni rear suspension kit - Low speed ride is much better but at higher speeds the rear is a bit bouncy. Has anyone experienced this? 2) New Girling clutch master and slave - The failed master cylinder was also a Girling but the slave was aftermarket. Both were leaking. 3) New Transmission oil - Dale uses Smith & Allen. He shared that the old fluid "looked like Christmas lights", which means loads of metal bits in it. Is this normal for a GT6? Anything I can do to minimize it - eg. an overdrive friendly additive. 4) New differential oil - The old fluid had turned black'ish. I plan to add Liqui Moly MOS2 differential additive to it to reduce friction wear.

I have direct experience with engine sludge. It's not as easy to deal with. After much research, I found Auto-rx. It has earned a strong reputation for gently removing sludge during normal driving. I've used it in 5 of my vehicles to date with excellent results. I'm talking shiny internals and measurable increases in compression and fuel economy. It's the first thing I add to any vehicle I purchase and is currently running in my GT6. It has no solvents and only requires that you follow instructions precisely and use a quality oil filter and a non-synthetic engine oil like Valvoline VR1.

Thanks all. The replacement gauge has been sourced. This thread can now be closed.

All my Mk2 Smiths dash gauges have black bezels & red hands. I'm hoping to maintain this theme.

I have no issues with that price. It's the red hands that are missing. I'd prefer not to open one up just to paint them.

Still looking for an original one if available?

£250...Yikes! I'd prefer to hunt down a Smiths or Motor Meter unit if I can find one. They sell for a fraction of that price!

Greetings! Looking for a dash clock for my Triumph to go with the Smiths gauges I plan on installing. Anyone have one lying around? Thanks in advance!

Just ordered the pair from Dave. Thanks for the recommendations. He did confirm they were new genuine Girling with new seals installed. £68 for the Master and £80 for the slave. Not cheap but hopefully, worth it for the peace of mind!