Kelv

She's running and driving well. I'm taking my time with her though. Don't want to stress her too much.

SHE'S FINISHED AND BACK HOME. I missed the old girl. I can get back to finishing her paint now.

Ah, yes, I understand what you mean now. Yes, that would have diagnosed the issue and possibly cleared out any blockage too. Cheers. I was having a thick moment. Lol

Latest update from Bern... "Hi Kelvin, I managed to get a trade price on a battery and when fitted the engine span a lot faster and started using a gravity fed fuel supply. There was an increased voltage of 14.1v across the poles with the engine running. I removed the fuel pump and using an endoscope I could see wear on the cam that operates the pump which could give a slight loss of fuel pump efficiency. I re fitted the fuel pump and fed the pump from a fuel can, there seemed to be a slight improvement. I disconnected all the fuel lines and found that the main steel line was partially blocked, I cleaned it with an airline. I stripped the top of the carb down and removed the float valve and found it to be sticking slightly. I gave everything a good clean and re attached the fuel lines. The engine started and ran well. I will start the engine a few times today and if all is well I will take if for a short run."

The pump has a priming lever though so not needed but that's a useful device there

Bernard has just done that very thing lol

Yes I had that issue a few months ago actually. Bernard had replaced ALL lines and hoses.

Further update... Hi Kelvin, Although the engine turned over sluggishly, it started and when warm the engine oil was drained, the oil filter removed and the bottom hose was disconnected to drain the water from the cooling system. The sump plug did not have a copper washer fitted and there was a large amount of debris on the magnetic part of the plug including the pin from the rocker shaft!! After cleaning up the plug and fitting a copper washer it was refitted, a new Powertune filter was fitted and the engine was filled with 20/50 mineral oil. The bottom hose was reconnected and 4 pints of anti-freeze was added. I took the car for my usual 2 mile round trip road test, I got about 1/2 mile and the engine cut out. After checking that there was a spark the engine fired and got me half way back, I had to push it the rest of the way. The battery was flat. I fast charged the battery and the car started after using some "Easy Start" but would not run. The battery was again flat when I tried to re start the engine. I charged it again and disconnected the fuel line from the carb, with the battery charged there was hardly any fuel being pumped through, I had found a good used pump last night in my shed at home and I fitted it, it did not increase the fuel delivery. I set up a gravity feed and had to charge the battery again, at which point I had run out of time. My next actions will be to fit a new battery, clean out the carb, try to run the engine from a gravity fed fuel reservoir, then re fit the new pump, if this doesn't help. I will fit an electric fuel pump to at least prove/disprove a fuel delivery issue, I'm not happy with the amount of fuel that is getting to the carb, I have come across this in the past and it was because the fuel pump cam profile on the camshaft had worn, but this is VERY rare. Show quoted text

Bernard replaced all fuel lines recently. I expect the pump he ordered isn't working too well

I'm worn out with the Triumph tbh. She's still showing faults. Fuel isn't pumping. She drives for half a mile and then dies. The battery drains flat after one start too. Bern is getting a new battery and setting up a gravity feed test for the fuel.

I understand. You're right nobody will follow this thread to chat about RV8s lol

Yes. Of course. Will do. Although Pete invited me to say more. But if talking about Rovers on a Triumph site makes your knees quiver, then I'll go elsewhere 😂

I can only ask him? Although I tried asking him a few things about the Rover last week and his reply was, he didn't know anything about Rovers. So I'll take the hint from that statement lol

Transmission was bone dry. No reading at all on the dipstick. Symptoms were reverse wheel movement when reverse gear selected but zero forward wheel movement in drive gears. I put 5 litres in the box and forward movement was fixed at all drive positions. But there's no strength to the forward movement. Also in neutral there is movement of the rear wheels but holding the wheel stops it quite easily. This is with wheels in the air.