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Kelv

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Posts posted by Kelv

  1. Update 3 from Bernard Littlewood...

     

    Hi Kelvin,

     

    A set of cylinder head studs and nuts were delivered at a cost of £55, a saving of £60 + P&P from Rimmer Brothers. Using a flat file then an oil stone, the top of the engine block was cleaned up. The replacement head studs were then cleaned up, the threads coated with copper slip and were screwed and locked in place using two nuts.

    1 CYLINDER BLOCK CLEANED UP.jpg

    2 REPLACEMENT HEAD STUDS FITTED.jpg

  2. Update 2 from Bern...

    "The replacement fuel tank was dropped off, so I removed drained the plastic tank, removed it and fitted the steel item. The fuel line that linked the tank to the main fuel line had to be replaced as did the old fuel hoses, they were badly perished and were replaced with R9 hose, new hose clips and an in line filter that is ethanol resistant, your old filter was badly degrading. You have a loose main starter motor connection which needs to be either repaired by a specialist or the starter needs replacing. The studs and nuts did not arrive, so hopefully they will tomorrow."

    1 PERISHED FUEL HOSE.jpg

    2 LEAKING FUEL HOSES.jpg

    3 TANK FITTED.jpg

    4 NEW R9 HOSE.jpg

    5 NEW FUEL LINE & HOSE.jpg

    6 DEGRADING FILTER.jpg

    7 PERISHED HOSE.jpg

    8 STARTER CONNECTION FAULTY.jpg

    9 SLITS IN OLD HOSE.jpg

    10 NEW FILTER & HOSES.jpg

    11 NEW FILTER & HOSES FITTED.jpg

  3. Bern is waiting for South Wales Pistons to do their bit and deliver new (old) studs. He's replaced my fuel tank (I had put a temporary plastic tank on because the original was leaking fuel all over the road), fuel line and hoses. He's noticed my starter motor is faulty too. 

  4. Bernard's day 2 report....

    "Hi Kelvin,

    A brief appraisal of today’s work –

    After leaving the weight of the car pulling the down on the suspended seized head stud overnight it had moved just enough for me to get a thin cutting disc between the gap to cut the stud. The bent and seized stud was heated with a blow torch and when cooled I was able to remove it from the block. The part of the stud left in the head was driven out with a parallel punch and mallet. There did not appear to be any damage to the piston or bore. I stripped the cylinder head of the valves and springs and using a valve seat cutter I re cut the valve seats, however, the exhaust valve seats were too recessed for a complete seat and after cleaning up all the valves and spending time lapping them in, the exhaust valves were far too pitted and need either renewing or re facing (SWP will do what is necessary). I then took the head complete with valves to SWP and asked them to renew the one damaged valve guide, fit hardened valve seats for lead free fuel, re face the valves if possible or supply new valves if necessary and not skim the head unless necessary and if so, to take the least amount off, I also asked them to supply a head gasket set. I asked if they had any used head studs and nuts (the new ones available are of a suspect grade steel) and the one lad said he would sort some out and drop them off to me tomorrow for a fraction cost of new ones."

    1 STUD CUT TO RELEASE HEAD.jpg

    2 STUD SEIZED IN HEAD.jpg

    3 STRIPPING HEAD.jpg

    4 RE CUTTING VALVE SEATS.jpg

    5 EX SEATS TOO RECESSED.jpg

    6 EX VALVES TOO PITTED TO LAP.jpg

    7 BARE ENGINE.jpg

  5. So far I cannot fault Bernard. He's only charging me £15 p h. (my local mechanic charges £60 p h!!) He really knows what he's doing. He's been described as one of the best you can find at this stuff. 

     

    I'm going to ask him to work on my Rover p6 next (when I've got money after this herald repair 🤑)

  6. Bernard says...

    "The engine is worn, but if you only want to tootle around in it it should run OK, in any case you will have a good head if you want to recon the bottom end in the future, I can always do a full rebuild for you, I can't comment on an engine that I never heard running."

  7. Latest from Bernard...

      I've just got the head off,valves and seats are in a terrible way, I will try to re cut the seats and lap the valves, but very likely South Wales Pistons job, if I have to take the head there do you want hardened valve seats although there may not be an option 

  8. I gave him the link when I first made contact with him. He's in the loop.

     

    This is what he said last night...

     

        let me know if you want me to order the very basic parts and see if the engine will run with just the valve seats cut and lapped, a new valve if required but definitely a valve guide, gaskets, studs, nuts etc

     

    TO DATE you need, new head studs, some rocker shaft fittings, new head nuts, head gasket set, rocker cover flat gasket, maybe at least one valve, at least one valve guide.

  9. Day 1 of the car being with Bernard Littlewood...

     

    "Hi Kelvin,

     

    I removed the rocker cover to assess the damage, I need to know how it happened, was it because you had carried out work on the rocker shaft? With the battery disconnected I removed the air filter, carburettor and manifolds. Next the fan belt and water pump housing was removed. The rocker shaft was removed and then the next 5 hours were spent attempting to remove the head!! It would not come off the studs, I attempted to remove the studs by locking nuts together, but only 1 unseized. I welded nuts to the other studs and eventually after using a combination of heat and release oil, all but 1 stud was out. The remaining stud snapped off flush with the head. I welded a larger nut to it, but it just sheared off. I managed to twist the head around the stud, but after spending a long time doing this with the assistance of levers the head only lifted about half inch off the block and the stud was bending. I managed to thread strong nylon cord under the head and using an engine hoist I lifted the front of the car slightly and doused the stud and head with even more release oil to leave it over- night.

     

    I am confident that I will get the head off even if I have to use a hacksaw blade to cut the stud between the head and block. I need to know what you want to do then, do you want me to get one new guide fitted with a valve and re assemble the engine or do you want the head taken to SWP for unleaded head conversion with whatever new parts they deem necessary?"

    1 CAR ARRIVES.jpg

    2 A DROPPED VALVE.jpg

    3 WELDING NUTS TO STUDS.jpg

    4 STUD SHEARED OFF.jpg

    5 REMOVING STUD.jpg

    6 LARGE NUT WELDED TO SHEARED STUD.jpg

    7 EXTREME HEAT.jpg

    8 HEAD PIVOTS ON SHEARED STUD.jpg

    9 LEFT SUSPENDED BY HEAD OVER NIGHT.jpg

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