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Keith M

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  • Location
    Bristol
  • Cars Owned
    Triumphs owned, 65 Mk1 2000, 68 Mk1 2000, 73 Mk2 2000, 74 Toledo
    Current fleet, 01 Rover 75 Tourer, 78 VW Type 2 Devon, 77 Stag, 70 Herald 1360 convertible

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  1. Thanks Colin. Looks like it is 512311. That site confirms the O ring is the same as the one used for the float chamber plug on the CD175 used on the Stag, so I've ordered a few to use on both cars. Hell of a price difference between suppliers though.
  2. So today I have replaced the coil and cleaned out the carb which was, as suggested, full of rubber bits. It is running much better now. I need to re-adjust the fuel mixture as it will not stay running without being on full choke. Then I noticed it was dripping fuel from the float chamber again. This is a Stromberg CD150 with the mixture adjusted from below. So I pulled the carb off again, for the umpteenth time, and discovered that I had yet again split the float chamber O ring. I am not convinced that the previous one I fitted was the correct size. It did not grip the bushing screw as I would have expected it to, but it did not leak to begin with. Hunting around the interweb, I can not find a definitive answer to what the part number is or, the size of the O ring. I'm assuming it is an imperial size? Can anyone tell me what size this O ring is so I can get in a small supply of spares?
  3. Correct. Transpires I had unknowingly reused a balast coil that was on the car when I first aqured it from auction as a restoration project. Its not been on the road since 1981.
  4. Nipped out to the garage earlier to test the coil and got 11V on the +ve side and .5V on the -ve side. So will swap it for a 3 Ohm one. Will clean the fuel side again and add filters when I get a bit more time and fingers crossed, I should be back in business.
  5. So just to remind everyone, this car is halfway through a full restoration and hasnt been on the road since 2005. I just want to get the rebuilt engine running well before I pull everything apart for paint. I have a Powerspark electronic ignition system installed so will have to replace the points to do the test Johny suggests. I checked the Powerspark site where I bought the electronic ignition and they do recommend a 3ohm coil. So it looks like I may have the wrong coil. The fuel pump was full of rubber bits and its quite possible its fouled up again. I only have a jerry can rigged up as a fuel supply at the moment with no filters. Long story short, back in 2005 I had the idea of moving the fuel filler to the centre of the rear deck. The Spitfire tank I fitted needs a clean internally which is one of the reasons why I'm using a temporary plastic jerry can. I'm trying to decide whether or not to revert this modification.
  6. OK so here is the update. The weekend arrives and I can finally get back to the Herald. Tried substituting a lead from the Stag and still did not work. Then new leads arrived so I used one of them on #1 plug. Nada. swapped out the king lead. Nada. I replaced all leads with the new set and hey presto timing light now working. So now I can move on a bit. The fuel mixture was set up with a Colourtune but will likely still need further work. The engine can only start on full choke but ran for a while on Sat warming up so I could accurately set the timing. Then it unexpectedly conked out. I discovered there was no fuel getting to carb. So checked and cleaned the pump this morning and now able to start again. I finally got the engine to run again and thought my problems were over. Then after about 5 mins running, it started to miss and then conked out again. It appears to start and run OK when cold but as soon as it starts to warm up it starts to misfire and then stops. I did wonder if the coil was failing but primary resistance is 1.5 Ohm and secondary is 9.7K Ohm, so it appears good. And then the carb overflows. Carb is actually a new item. I've lost count of the number of times I've removed it, cleaned the needle valve, and checked the float height (18mm). Oh, and the rad now looks like it's sprung a leak. So this is where I'm at now. https://youtu.be/GQOww64SnWU . I grabbed my phone and shot some video as it started to misfire. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get back to this for a while. A front spring on the 75 broke earlier in the week which I'll have to replace next weekend.
  7. I've ordered a set of standard ignition leads to rule out the silicone suppressed leads causing the problem.
  8. I checked and confirmed it as working on my other cars at the weekend. Its a 1970 model so positive earth. Electronic ignition, silicone leads and control box bypassed for alternator conversion. Electronic ignition module can only be connected the correct way or it blows up. Ask me how I know. Expensive mistake. I've had this car for 15yrs now and havent worked on it for about 10yrs. So its quite possible I did something stupid way back along.
  9. Hi Colin. I think the 'simple' here is me as I've never had a problem with it before. It's a Gunsen 4133. The heavy duty one with the dial advance. I've tried all the plug leads including the king lead in both directions. Would normally connect to #1 pointing the arrow on the inductive pick up to the plug. Must be something like a weak spark or something blocking the signal. It's certainly got me stumped.
  10. Hi, I'm Keith and I've owned a succession of various Triumphs since the early 80s. I currently own a 77 Stag and a stalled 1360 Herald restoration. Whilst I am still working from home during the pandemic, lockdown 2 has given me the impetus to restart the restoration of a Herald 1360 I started back in 2005. The car has been sat undercover for a good 10 years now, so I have been going back over everything that I'd done before. Previous work included a chassis strip and rebuild, all rust repairs completed and the dashboard stripped and relacquered. The car had an incorrect and worn 1150cc. So I rebuilt a 1300cc with new ancillaries including carburettor, alternator conversion and electronic ignition. Life and other cars got in the way and it sat neglected for many years. A lot of the work done before seems to have held up well. I'm now cleaning back to bare metal and epoxy priming all the outer panels. During the weekend I managed to get the engine to fire up for the first time in 10years. I doubt it has run for more than 30 mins since it was rebuilt. Lots of problems to work through. Carb is flooding and leaking fuel and timing is way off. As an initial call for help maybe someone can shed some light on why my timing light won't flash on this engine. It works fine on both my aircooled VW camper and the Stag. Both the Stag and the Herald have electronic ignition and silicon plug leads. So I don't think that is the problem. Looking forward to connecting with you all. As aquired in 2005
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