MSZ

But what sealer to use in addition to the copper washer?

So no additional sealant of any sort with the copper washer?

Hi all, My spitfire MK3 brass coolant drainage tap leaks from where it is screwed into the block. The tap itself is knackered, with lever snapped. Got a new one and so far have tried to fit, but it leaks every time ? I first used PTFE tape on the thread, then after that failed I used plumbers jointing compound, that failed to seal and then a fibre washer followed by a rubber washer………..still leaks coolant where it meets the engine block. Do I need a copper washer or something else? thanks Mike

I always start my spit and let it get to temperature before heading off. The choke I gradually push home after 15-30 seconds.......of course every car is different with its own temperament LOL. Mk3 spits always run rich at idle, even when using a colourtune kit, you have to run it at different RPM's to adjust jets. but you're saying that after warm up the plugs are sooted up? Mine always are after warm up before I head off, only after I have a run do they go a slight charcoal/brown and all that soot is burnt off....................................what if its the same problem I experienced lately see my post 'Spitfire mk3 - spitting'. Mike

Finally!! Thought Id check in and let you guys know the problem. I swapped the the coil with a known coil that works, the problem still persists............................................. BUT, when replacing with my original coil, I noticed that there was a frayed bare wire protruding through the wiring loom that goes to/from the solenoid. This bare frayed wire was touching the bulkhead panel to which both the solenoid and coil are fixed to. (see pic) I part stripped the loom to expose the wire (which wasn't connected to anything) and decided to cut it cleanly and used a combination of liquid electrical tape and electrical insulating tape at its termination point. I can only think that this cable could of fed some accessory at some point and was abandoned. Everything put back together and fired the car up - BINGO, no misfire, no backfire.....in fact it ticked over nicely and even at 900rpm. I checked that all was firing nicely with Accuspark plug check and they all ran evenly like a Xmas tree (see pic).Took it for a spin and it goes like a rocket!!!.....no hesitation just nicely and strongly. Going to drive it around for a while as i missed the summer and check the mixture before putting it to bed for winter. Id like to thank everybody and their suggestions to help solve my dilemma, which now is solved. Many thanks Mike

Yes I have a colourtune and used it once or twice but unless you have perfect carburettors it is quite erratic in producing accurate results

Yes timing good. And I have engine oil in the dash pots 👍

To be honest what you’re say is an easy fix, I could drain the fuel and use it in lawnmower…….then just try and get hold of fresh fuel 🤔

No I haven’t yet……..especially with all the petrol pump faff going on. After I’m happy that the ignition element is in order I’ll move to check over for air leaks and then fuel. I replaced the fuel filter. The thing is, it starts and runs/ticks over lovely, when I gradually depress the accelerator all the way to around 4000rpm no misfires only happens when I blip the accelerator erratically. Driving out of my driveway and up the road under acceleration it pops, misfires and holds back, as if someone is depressing the brake!!! hopefully in the next few days I can start eliminating possible causes. mike

Paul all checked and fine mate

Very useful and interesting information there, many thanks. The testing of the coil looks complicated to me, so I’m waiting for my mate to pop over so I can take his coil off and substitute it with mine to see if that is at fault. I did initially start the car with a boost from the battery charger…….so interesting to see if that cooked the EI module in the distributor. The timing is spot on ………..I have checked dozens of times now as it’s got to a point where I keep doubting myself now LOL!!! I think I’ll then proceed to replace spark plugs, ignition leads (copper-less core as recommended using with EI)……………then finally the module. I replaced the distributor because the original one had so much play in it………so that’s why I opted for the EI. As I mentioned before I had it all set up beautifully and did a 1200 mile round trip faultlessly, left it a few months and then the problems began! If the problem still persists after replacing all electrical bits above, I’ll move onto to possible air leaks as suggested above……………classic cars- don’t you just love them

Thanks for that Clive, I have only posted this thread. Yes, I believe you may have a point re new parts and quality, I do have an old coil, so I may dig that out and try with that. The distributer I bought and fitted 2019 together with a new coil. ..................now where did I put it? Mike

Thanks for all the advice above. I did the compression again with butterflies open and got readings 135, 137, 137, 115 starting from the radiator end (front of engine, so marginal differences in reading. I am waiting till Monday to contact www.simonbbc.com who are Powerspark Ignition in Bromsgrove to see if there are issues with the module etc. Although i have read that Powerspark do recommend using non copper cored HT leads, but I think this is more for better performance as opposed to developing faults. Spark plugs are Champion N9YC. I cant find anywhere whether the ignition timing needs to be altered if electronic ignition is fitted, again i will seek guidance from them. The carbs are set up perfectly I believe. The car starts without problems and once at operating temperature it idles without any misfiring. When increasing revs gradually to 3-4000rpm there is no misfire, only a misfire occurs from idle if I blip the accelerator rapidly and sharply. Also there is faint white smoke puffing through the front carburetor when there is a misfire after I blip the accelerator pedal rapidly on and off. Mike

Pete, I will contact Power Spark and ask their advice. Don't have Waxstat luckily!! I note your point about throttle closing re compression test. All things to look into. Again thanks Mike

Pete, Finally found it.......Powerspark Delco type Electronic Distributor. I think ill check all connections at coil as well and get in touch with Powerspark Ignition and see if there have been any known problems with these. Mike