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jagnut66

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jagnut66 last won the day on August 26

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mansfield, Notts. UK
  • Cars Owned
    Wedgewood Blue Triumph Herald 1200 Hetty

Cars

  • Cars Owned
    1970 Triumph Herald 1200 - Hetty; 1955 Morris Minor Traveller - Elsie May; 1954 Morris Minor 4 door - Sally

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  1. Noted, thanks. Thanks Colin, I will order one of those then. Best wishes, Mike.
  2. Thanks, I've got one made up already. All advice is greatfully received, as this isn't something I've done before. I will try and leave it as standard / reversible as possible though. Talking of reverse, I meant to ask, I take it the two wires near the gear lever position (last picture) are for a reversing lamp? I have wired one up at present on a separate switch, as the 1200 doesn't have one. Rimmer Bros have advised that I need a 6 1/2" Dolomite 1300 clutch plate to fit my 1200 Herald for this conversion, so from this I'm assuming my 1970 car has the diaphragm version. Your 1967 1200 Estate would be the same as mine wouldn't it Colin? Ironically, in their next sentence, they state they have none in stock! πŸ˜„ Fortunately an eBay source was quoted in an earlier post in this topic, so I've sourced one from there. I don't think I have any clutch issues with the existing set up, so was hoping to use the existing clutch cover, though it may pay me to source a new release bearing, just in case. Should I go for a 1200 or 1300 release bearing, though I think someone said they are the same? Best wishes, Mike.
  3. Hi, I spotted this and thought it might appeal to somebody on here, link below. Best wishes, Mike. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313685503409?hash=item49091cedb1:g:ouQAAOSwfUZgv8vq
  4. Hi, I have just collected an overdrive gearbox to fit onto my 1970 Triumph Herald 1200. What I now need is a clutch that will fit. At present the Herald has the standard non-overdrive box, clutch and flywheel fitted. I have been advised the overdrive gearbox is from a Triumph 1300. The input shaft has 20 splines (I have counted them) and the seller advised me that I will need a 6 1/2" plate with fine splines. I would imagine he advised that size of plate so it would fit my existing flywheel. Below are pictures of the gearbox (I will clean it up before fitting itπŸ˜‰). I have posed the question, via email, to Rimmer Bros. but thought I would also 'ask the experts': So, can you advise me what clutch parts I need to purchase, in terms of release bearing, clutch plate and clutch cover, in order to get this fitted to my Herald? Many thanks, Mike.
  5. Sorry but I couln't resist this period 1970s style sticker................πŸ˜ƒ Best wishes, Mike.
  6. jagnut66

    SU fuel pump

    The fuel line is now replaced and the fuel pump refurbished. However I think this was a case of just in time. The old steel fuel line snapped like a dry twig when I tried to fold it up to put it in the bin bag. The original joining rubber sections had set hard and welded themselves to the pipe, which was just as well, as they had all been attached as a 'push fit' item, with no fuel line clips used to hold them in place at all, anywhere on the line, from tank to pump (picture 1 below). I'm amazed it never leaked. The pumps diaphragm was also on its last legs, with no flexibility in it at all, the only thing keeping it plyable was the fuel itself. Anyway I took that off the engine, cleaned it up, replaced the diapragm, the little filters and the rubber seal for the lid. I cleaned up the top gauze filter, which isn't supplied new in the kit anyway. I also cleaned out the body of the pump which was full of crud. The car seemed to be running happily but I can't help wondering how much longer that would have lasted. The mechanical side of the pump (apart from the diapragm) seems okay, the action seems good and free, so I just cleaned it up and put it back, with a new gasket, onto the engine block. Of course with the new line and refurbished pump in place I was left with an empty line and a massive air lock between the tank and the carb, which I think the mechanical pump by itself would have struggled to overcome. I did try turning it over but to no avail. Then I had a lightbulb moment, I rigged up my spare Moris Minor electronic SU fuel pump and used this to suck fuel back through the line, all the way to the carb. then screwed the pipe back into the carb and bingo! Houston we have ignition! Anyway, I also have some spares left over from the kit (picture 2 below), which I assume relate to the mechanical side of the pump, which I didn't find reason to dismantle. I also have a (now) spare screw on nut (top left in picture 2). This was attached to the stud on the bulkhead side of the fuel pump, slightly obscrured by the pumps priming lever. I have replaced it with a normal nut, which being smaller (shorter) is easier to get a small socket onto for removal and replacement. Was this an original fitting, or just something someone has used because they lost the original nut at some point? Anyway, I think the point of my writing this is as a warning to all those out there running their cars on 50 plus year old metal fuel lines and rubbers -- it might be worth you checking and replacing them and, for the price of the kit (link below), servicing your fuel pumps too.............. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133818427423 Best wishes, Mike.
  7. jagnut66

    SU fuel pump

    Your right, unlike so many moderns, they're not a pig ugly oversized jelly mould.........πŸ˜‰ Best wishes, Mike.
  8. I notice your quote Colin: "Happiness is a warm spanner." I'd have thought in the classic car world 'Happiness' would be a 'warm garage'! πŸ˜ƒ Especially in the months to come....... πŸ˜‰ Best wishes, Mike.
  9. This has now been posted to Dave. Best wishes, Mike.
  10. Hi, I have been sitting on a spare one of these for a while, I have mentioned it before but before it goes in the bin I thought I'd offer it up once more. It's free to whoever wants it. I have an envelope with a stamp on it, so all I need is the address and postcode of anyone interested. Its cover is worn but otherwise internally is in good condition. And it's free!! πŸ˜ƒ Sample images below. Best wishes, Mike.
  11. A few years back there was an article, which ran to at least three pages with pictures, in Practical Classic about a chap in Scotland who used a Rover P4 to travel all over (I beleive he was some sort of rep), he did a deal with his company, so he could run a classic P4 instead of a boring modern. Mind you, first he had to prove it would be reliable enough for work use (I suspect the plugs were one of the items he renewed). Once he'd done that he spent the allowance for a company car on his Rover each year. Fair play to him. I've always liked the idea of owning a Rover P4, one day maybe. Best wishes, Mike.
  12. jagnut66

    SU fuel pump

    Based on these comments and the fact that mine still functions (so far....... hastily touching wood πŸ˜‰) I've bought the refurb kit......... Best wishes, Mike.
  13. Hi, I have had cause to replace the spark plugs in my Herald, which, of course, meant I had to check the gaps on the new plugs I installed, plus the spare set I like to carry. I repeated this for the spare sets for my Minors, which I ordered at the same time, incidently the plugs and gaps are the same for both cars, all of which set me thinking....... I have done this for years now, following what the manuals advise for different cars, without ever questioning why and simply accepting that it was the correct procedure. But what determines the gaps for different cars, does 0.001" really make any difference and who determined what the gapping should be and how to calculate it in the first place? This is a question brought about by curiousity, by the way, before anyone starts reaching for the Uzi 9mm's ammunition mags.........πŸ˜„ Best wishes, Mike.
  14. Hi Dan, She dates to 1970. Best wishes, Mike.
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