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jagnut66
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Posts posted by jagnut66
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2 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
My reasoning was that if I only ever used once it was cheaper than buying a new battery or alternator if it demonstrated I didn’t need to.
Thanks, I'm now watching one on eBay, link below for others interested.
2 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:Importantly for me, it is very simple to use.
I'm also more than happy with this being the case! 👍
Best wishes,
Mike.
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Hi,
Thought I'd change tack with this post........
We all have our reasons, be they cars you remember from when you were young, a car you once owned that you wish you'd been able to keep or just a sudden whim that led to a more long term association.
I thought it might be interesting for people on here to indulge in a personal trip down memory lane.......
Mine is a sentimental attachment to a car that will be forever associated with my childhood, that was sadly sold and written off before I was old enough to drive / express an interest in keeping it in the family.
It goes a bit deeper than that, in that it's a car that I will forever associate with my parents also.....
So here she is: 99 EMO with my mum at the wheel, my dad would have been behind the camera. I believe this was taken before I came along:
Best wishes,
Mike.
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15 minutes ago, Wagger said:
Before you give up on the battery, charge it, leave it disconnected overnight, then connect up and try to start next day. Check how many start ups you can do. If it can do ten, then it is ok.
I have been charging it, but I will give this test a go, once it's fully charged again. We shall see.
Best wishes,
Mike.
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7 minutes ago, Wagger said:
Do not fit things like a voltmeter, radio etc unless it is NOT permanently connected.
The radio only has the memory circuit as a permanent live, standard for many car radios I believe and never a problem on any car I have had before?
As an aside, I removed the courtesy light switches from the A posts, pulled the wires on each side, cut off the old connectors, cut back the wire to good clean copper and fitted new brass bullet connectors.
The switches looked manky, so I've ordered new ones. The driver behind this was that, apart from looking bad, a couple of the retaining clips snapped off.
Plus, with new connectors attached, when the wires were earthed, the courtesy light works again (both sides tested).
Unfortunately, with the wiring for the door switches disconnected, the battery voltage still drops, so not the answer......
Best wishes,
Mike.
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1 hour ago, Wagger said:
Have you fitted a new fuse box or is it as built?
The Herald started life without a fuse box and I have simply added inline fuses for things I have added, like the radio and 12V charge point.
37 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said:The battery is dead.
Ahhh............
You are not the first to suggest this possibility, however, as it accepted a charge from my charger and then happily sat on 'charged and maintaining' until I disconnected said charger, I discounted this. That said though, with all other possibilities exhausted, I guess that leaves only one (rather expensive these days) remaining option. Still at least (once purchased) it's an easy job to do.
For the record the battery has been disconnected from everything since the last test, I have checked it and it had settled around 13V, obviously when reconnected it starts to drop further.
18 hours ago, johny said:Strange, wonder if the meter is ok. With it connected in series to the battery, on opening a door you should see a reading when the interior light comes on?
Sorry, I meant to reply to this one earlier, my interior light only works intermittently, another job on the 'to do' list. However, switching the lights on and then off again does cause the battery voltage to drop and then rise once more.
50 minutes ago, Unkel Kunkel said:There are types where a there is a fused link crossing the isolator - this allows a 12 V current to pass subject to the size of the fuse.
This looks a better option then:
Best wishes,
Mike.
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11 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
Hi Mike,
are you referring to the voltage dropping from 14 volts to 12.6 Volts?Or
Are you talking about the voltage dropping from 12.6 Volts to a lower voltage?
Cheers,Iain.
Taken from my original post:
QuoteDuring which I put my meter across the battery, it read about 14.5 volts, I switched off and it dropped to about 13.5, then carried on dropping whilst I watched.........
I disconnected the alternator (to rule out backflow), no effect. The coil, no effect. The radio, no effect. The starter motor, no effect.
Then I disconnected the positive lead from the starter solenoid. with just the earth lead connected to the battery the volt reading started to go back up!?
I walked away and left it a while to make sure it wasn't my imagination.
It had dropped to a reading of 13.19 volts.
It now read 13.27 volts.
To summarise: with the engine on it charges at about 14.5 volts, the drop off starts when I switch the engine off and continues, past the point at which I can no longer turn the engine over, until the battery is flat or I disconnect the positive lead.
13 hours ago, PeteH said:Depends on the Age/Quality of the Radio?
Fairly new, so hopefully okay then.
Best wishes,
Mike.
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I'm looking at one of these, that connects to the negative terminal. Nice and straightforward.
Will this still allow the radio retain it's memory (stations) though?
Best wishes,
Mike.
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2 hours ago, DerekS said:
At risk of nagging, Is there a boot light fitted? If so, is it going off and staying off as it should? Can be a problem...
Derek.
I had to check, no boot light fitted
At present, because one would be useful.
7 hours ago, johny said:please put us out of our misery Mike!
Nothing????
Yet, when both battery leads are connected, as I said in an earlier post, there is a very clear, continuous, drop when the car is switched off.
So, although I don't think we're "chasing nothing", I am beginning to think I am chasing a shadow. And one that might drive me to distraction.
Therefore I think the next thing I will do is source a battery isolator, any recommendations?
Best wishes,
Mike.
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22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
if its charging and does it actually go flat (well low enought to not start)
Yes, it has done, several times and quite quickly.
7 hours ago, Wagger said:If there is an unwanted load that cannot be found, fit a battery isolator. That will stop unwanted drain.
If I can't find it, then that's a good option.
6 hours ago, johny said:All this could be clarified very quickly by setting the multimeter to the highest DC amp scale (maybe changing lead positions on it) and, with the ignition off, connecting the meter between a battery terminal and its disconnected lead. You dont have to touch anything else to see if theres a drain current showing - please put us out of our misery Mike!
I was going to have another go at the weekend but I don't want anybody to suffer a breakdown......... 😉
Best wishes,
Mike.
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9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
lets get back to basics
Thanks Pete.
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8 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
My understanding is that when the battery has been fully charged & battery is connected the voltage falls quicker than with the battery left unconnected
Correct Iain.
7 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:Does the battery ( assuming it’s a good ‘un) go flat eventually ?
It did once but I have since recharged it.
38 minutes ago, PeteH said:In recent years, I have taken to connecting small (15W) solar panels to any standing batteries, tends to be just enough to keep them "live".
Pete
Interesting, something for when the drain has been traced and fixed though.
Do you have a link(s) to the set up you use?
Best wishes,
Mike.
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1 hour ago, SpitFire6 said:
Cheers,
Iain.PS: Personally I like it best in black Iain. 👍
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13 minutes ago, johny said:
When the battery was completely isolated Iain the voltage 'started to go back up' and I cant think of any explanation of that other than a drain.
Not completely Johny, which was the bit that puzzled me, the earth was still connected (positive disconnected).
Many thanks to all, I am reading the replies with interest, there are other (non electrical) things I need to resolve but, regarding this problem, I will start with the 'usual suspects' mentioned in the earlier posts. If anyone has more possibilities to add, please do, it could be anything at this stage.
Best wishes,
Mike.
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2 hours ago, PeteH said:
I have this one
Added it to my list, I will get one after payday next week.
I take it that, with everything switched off, I am looking for anything flowing out, say on the headlamp wiring for example.
Best wishes,
Mike.
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3 minutes ago, johny said:
Unfortunately I think your alternator is a later addition so your wiring isnt standard however, yes, most likely to be something in the permanently live system which is basically horns and lights....
Thanks Johny.
Would my (1970) car have been positive earth originally?
Best wishes,
Mike.
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30 minutes ago, foshi said:
you dont have anything like a aftermarket boot light switch
No, nothing like that. I do have ancillaries though, high level brake light, reversing light, gauges etc. But nothing that isn't dependant on the ignition being on, with the exception of the radio's memory circuit and I've already checked that.
However, you have reminded me to include the door courtesy light switches in my 'things to check' list. 👍
Best wishes,
Mike.
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The only fuses my Herald has are the inline ones that I've added......
I was under the impression that the Herald's creators didn't believe in them...... 😉
One thought that occurred to me as I wandered back to her was that, as she is still draining the battery with the ignition off and key removed, then it must be one of the permanent live circuits at fault.
Or is my reasoning in error here?
Best wishes,
Mike.
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14 minutes ago, JohnD said:
You have a short from the starter solenoid.
But that doesn't tell you much, as the power supply to the rest of the car comes via that.
Thanks John.
I take it there are no 'common causes' to check out first?
Best wishes,
Mike.
PS: The link to the colour circuit diagram is really helpful, I have copied onto my PC, so I can print it off -- at some point Hetty may well get a new wiring loom. 👍
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Hi,
Well, one thing has remained consistent during my Heralds hiatus, that is an ongoing power drain issue.
I have disconnected various items today in order to eliminate them but one thing has made me do a double take.
To start at the beginning, the first thing I did today, having had the battery on charge overnight, was start her up and allow the engine to run for half an hour.
During which I put my meter across the battery, it read about 14.5 volts, I switched off and it dropped to about 13.5, then carried on dropping whilst I watched.........
I disconnected the alternator (to rule out backflow), no effect. The coil, no effect. The radio, no effect. The starter motor, no effect.
Then I disconnected the positive lead from the starter solenoid. with just the earth lead connected to the battery the volt reading started to go back up!?
I walked away and left it a while to make sure it wasn't my imagination.
It had dropped to a reading of 13.19 volts.
It now read 13.27 volts.
So what is going on?
I'm hoping someone on here can offer some clues or point me in the right direction.
Best wishes,
Mike.
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Hi,
A work colleague has asked me to confirm if this (NOS) headlamp rim is for a Triumph Herald. I said I didn't think so but would take it home to compare against mine.
Needless to say I am now sure it isn't, my 1200's is much deeper, slightly squarer in appearance and the screw is on the inside edge.
The one pictured below is narrower, has a subtle point to the apex and has the fixing screw on the outside of the narrow bottom edge.
So what might it be for?
I'm thinking 1966 onwards Sunbeam Rapier or Alpine.....
But what do you think?
Best wishes,
Mike.
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Hi,
Just to say that I bought a stainless exhaust for my 1200 engine off one of the 'usual suspects'.
The exhaust fitment is fine, in fact it was very straightforward, so no complaints there.
However, the holes where the manifold studs fit through to clamp the front pipe were too small, so I had to drill them out, after which it was, as above, straightforward.
Is this a common issue with replacement exhaust systems or did I just get the pick of the bunch? 😉
Best wishes,
Mike.
PS: I now have a complete, one piece(?), mild steel exhaust in need of a new home.
FREE to anyone who wants to collect it or arrange collection from Mansfield, Notts.
I only changed it as I was taking the engine out anyway, it doesn't appear to leak, just in need of a clean up (and a new fitting kit).
Pictured below.
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Hi,
The picture shows the state of my thermostat housing. It has been like this for a while and still functions as it should but I have noticed this same type of corrosion happening with my Morris Minor thermostat housings over the years.
I have always used the blue type coolant recommended for older (classic) engines but it does seem to 'like' the alloy housings........
However, of equal concern recently was that the mixed coolant that I put in Hetty to seems to coagulate in places, notably around the inside of the housing. This was the first mix I'd used in Hetty, which I have since disposed of, so could it be reacting with something left over from when I initially flushed her out? Although she seemed to only be filled with plain water when I bought her......
I am thinking of giving her another flush through with plain water to see if this clears up the problem.
Best wishes,
Mike.
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On 08/01/2024 at 13:04, Patrick Taylor said:
I had new tyres fitted on Saturday: I asked the fitter to tighten the wheel nuts by hand and not with the windy wrench. The fitters were amazed to hear that the nuts should be torqued at 40lb/ft: they were doing vans at 170lb/ft! Would have stripped the nuts in seconds, I imagine....
Glad I read this, otherwise I might have found out the hard way. I may get a spare set for when I need new tyres, then fit them to Hetty myself after the new tyres are fitted to them.
I find it useful to have a spare 'slave' set of wheels anyway.
Best wishes,
Mike.
Ongoing power drain issue
in Electrical System
Posted
I am still leaning towards a drain somewhere, however, reading everybody's comments has left me wondering if I'm not being pulled in the wrong direction and that it might be the battery after all.
I don't know the answer yet.
Sorry, I work during the week, so it may be the weekend before I get back on this.
Best wishes,
Mike.