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jagnut66

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Everything posted by jagnut66

  1. Thanks. I've always used them, originally where the exhaust and inlet manifolds bolt onto the head but also, in recent years, for front pipe joints as well. As we all know, steel nuts simply rust and / or seize on, which can lead to the air turning blue......... I will still fit washers as well. Best wishes, Mike.
  2. Good point. I couldn't see any evidence that there was any 'remains' in the holes though, they looked clean but that isn't to say they weren't 'prepared for sale' by the seller I bought it from. In truth, who knows. I just wanted to see if someone else had come up against this problem. Best wishes, Mike.
  3. My 1300 engines exhaust manifold didn't come with any studs fitted to connect it to the exhaust front pipe. No problem, I'll just order some new ones along with a few other bits and bobs. The new studs arrived, I'd ordered 4, as I had one missing from the 1200 manifold, so I thought I'd fix that whilst I was at it. The 1200 manifold accepted it's new stud, along with some thread lock, no problem. I will do a trial 'tightening' of a 'fixing' onto it to make sure it holds and if not I'll replace the Loctite with JB Weld (if anything the hole felt a little 'enlarged'). Onto the 1300 exhaust manifold and guess what,,, My new studs are too big for the threaded holes in it(!?!). My replacements were listed as being correct for this application, so I was at a bit of a loss. However, I wasn't going to let this slow the project down, so, having first checked they matched up with the size of the holes in my new front pipe's flange, out came the drill and the Imperial tap and die set. NF24 at 5/16" is the studs thread size, the holes in the manifold required enlarging with a 7mm drill bit first, then I re-tapped them. The studs wound in nicely on the first go, again with some thread lock for good measure. Job done. Which just leaves me wondering why they were the wrong size in the first place...... Best wishes, Mike.
  4. I will probably get one 'just in case' anyway. Best wishes, Mike.
  5. Thanks for this 👍, new 13/60 return pipes should be in by Friday and they have an air filter housing. Best wishes, Mike.
  6. Ugh! That doesn't look healthy. Reminds me of the old anti-smoking adverts, blocked arteries...... The really nasty revelation is towards the end of the ad. Best wishes, Mike.
  7. Thanks Nigel, I've just popped out and tried it, using the 1200's sump drain plug and it fitted a treat. However, I need this in the 1200 unit, so another random thought occurred..... What about the blanking bolt in use in the thermostat housing, it would need replacing with a hose outlet anyway..... And the problem is solved, with no extra expense to boot! 🙂 The blanking bolt is also a perfect fit, wound straight in and doesn't foul the rocker cover, nor does it overlap where the exhaust manifold will sit. Excellent, I'll repaint the area around it later, when I can see no leaks while it's under pressure. Now, for three for three, will the stub pipe outlet that I've just removed from the back of the head fit the threaded hole in the thermostat housing just vacated by the aforementioned blanking bolt...... If the blanking bolt thread matches the thread in the back of the head then surely it must....... But no. For some reason it refused point blank to wind into the housing. However, I already have a new one that I bought on eBay (link below), which winds straight in and completes this part of the puzzle. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185285520529 For the record, both were attached with copper washers. The only thing I'm left puzzled about, is why the original one was so clearly not a match??? Oh, well..... Best wishes, Mike.
  8. A random thought occurs, this wouldn't be the same (size / thread) as the sump drain plug would it?? Best wishes, Mike.
  9. Ahhhhh, Radweld...... The death of many an engine, so I'm led to believe........... Best wishes, Mike.
  10. Turns and jams. I have tightened it back up, I hope. However it may pay me to invest in a replacement and install it with some copper grease if the old one now proves to leak. I think I will be able to separate it from the adaptor in the back of the water pump, so long as I'm prepared to break it in the process..... C'est la vie.... Best wishes, Mike.
  11. I've finally worked out why I couldn't marry up the heater hose connections for the 13/60 engine in my head. My 1300 engine has the stub connector at the back of the head , the same as on my 1200 engine, however in the image below, which I believe shows a conventional 13/60 heater hose set up, this outlet is plugged (P). So what I need to find is a blanking plug...... I shall start searching but links to one are always welcome. 👍 As I've stated before this is an ex Spitfire engine, so I take the heater hoses for these still require an outlet here? Looks like I will be following this route after all 'JumpingFrog'. 🙂 I think I've found an image for your signature on here too, see second picture below.....😉 Best wishes, Mike.
  12. Well the 1300 engine went in today. The hardest part was reattaching the mounting rubbers onto their respective towers. They came attached to the engine and look in good condition, so I've reused them and therefore left them attached. In retrospect it may have been better to employ a trick I use with Morris Minor engines, with one rubber attached to the engine and the opposite one attached to its tower, though with Minors the mounts tower itself is detachable too (bolts in place), which makes things really simple. As always with this type of project I have discovered parts I don't have and need, so an order has been placed and I will get on with what I can in the meanwhile..... One that has caught me out though (apart from the air filter housing which I've put a request out for in the parts wanted section) is the coolant return pipe along the side of the engine, it will not undo from the outlet on the side of the engine. It turns so far then just jams up. I could try and force it but I'll break it in the process, so I've simply done it back up and left it attached to the 1200 engine. I hope it doesn't leak now..... Which means I also need a replacement return pipe for the 1300 engine, as it didn't come with one attached. I hope after all this the blessed thing works! 😄 Best wishes, Mike.
  13. Well the 1300 engines been swapped in and guess what, I can't get the blessed return pipe off the 1200 engine, well not without wrecking it in the process anyway.....☹️ The pipe union to the engine will turn one way then back the other, however it will not slide back down the pipe and out of the connector to the engine, it simply jams up as you try to undo it. So I've tightened it back up, I hope, if it leaks it won't matter if it breaks coming off...... It appears I will be looking for a replacement return pipe after all. I wonder if this is why no return pipe came with the 1300 engine...... Best wishes, Mike.
  14. I believe later versions of the original (proper) Mini used a similar set up, I understand what you are saying but I'm not sure I'm convinced it would be that much of an improvement for the extra expense of a 13/60 specific return pipe and, presumably, a different heater valve to the one I currently have fitted (late 1200 version). I already have a thermostat housing with two outlets, one for the temp sender (fitted) and the other sealed up (at the factory) with a removeable short blanking bolt, plus I have a threaded outlet stub pipe of the right size / thread. I will go with what you say regarding trimming the pipe, in that I will remove the flange (1) but leave the secondary outlet (1a) in place, I will trial fit it onto the engine when it's in situ to see how much I actually need to trim off each end. Of course this will leave things open for a change of tack, should someone convince me that this really is a massive improvement..... Best wishes, Mike.
  15. Hi, Does anyone on here have a spare 13/60 air filter housing they can let go of? I've tried various options from my spares but this seems the best way to go. I can get the bolts / filter from Rimmers etc., although anything that goes with it is always a bonus. 😃 Many thanks, Mike.
  16. Hi, Pictured below is the inlet manifold I acquired a while ago for my 1300 (ex-Spitfire) engine. Incorporated into it is a water pipe, which in images I have viewed appears to connect with an outlet on the thermostat housing one end and then somewhere on the heater valve the other end (1), there is also another outlet (1a), however I am not sure where this connects into the system. As the Herald set up is much simpler and doesn't use / need these extra pipes, plus (at their existing length) they will probably get in the way, I am proposing to shorten them (2). This would allow me to either link them into the existing Herald 1200 set up via rubber hoses or leave them disconnected. Does this pipe really matter and can I happily stick with the original Herald 1200 set up? Many thanks as always, Mike.
  17. Thanks for the clarification on this folks. I will know for next time. It is now out, due to the application of a screwdriver (metal topped / designed to be hammered) and the mechanics friend, the trusty hammer. The new one is now in place with the aid of a smear of red rubber grease to smooth the way. Many thanks, Mike.
  18. I quite liked the look of this: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RH5044 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RH5044FK Best wishes, Mike.
  19. A close up makes what you are saying even clearer... I had to use heat, as it was rock solid. I thought this metal was an inner lip. I wonder when it was last changed?..... Well now I know it needs to come out I shall have to set to it, Best wishes, Mike.
  20. Are you saying that inner metal lip shouldn't be there? It's very firmly in place, I had to use heat to 'extract' what I did....... Best wishes, Mike.
  21. Packaging shows 100499, so now I'm really confused, unless someone put the wrong part in the bag? It's definitely too big for the hole..... If they send another and it's the same I suppose I could try putting it in boiling water and see if that makes it malleable enough to squeeze in..... Best wishes, Mike.
  22. Hi, As the title states I've run into a little hiccup. I ordered one for my (ex - Spitfire) 1300 engine along with other bits, they duly arrived and I've been picking from the pile as needed. However, when it came to the Crankshaft front oil seal I found it was too large for the hole. It looks the same as the one I "persuaded", after God knows how long in residence (it was like it was welded in place), out.... But it sits on the hole and the diameter appears to be 1 or 2mm too big to be driven into it. I clearly remember requesting the correct one from a certain well known supplier, however, I'm left wondering whether I should have been clearer...... I shall ring them tomorrow and discuss it. In the meantime I wondered whether anyone else has had this issue and whether I need to be ordering a specific item, to ensure I get the correct size?? Best wishes, Mike.
  23. Looking at the images on the Rimmer site I think you may be right. Cheers, Mike.
  24. Hi, One issue which I haven't looked at yet, mainly because I've been too preoccupied with end floats and bearings, is what exhaust is required once I've slotted the 1300 unit into the Herald? The manifold, obviously, is different, so there's no reusing the Herald 1200 set up..... Therefore I'm hoping that someone on here has done this before and can tell me which exhaust or combination of exhaust parts I will need to fit? One thing that (hopefully) will be simpler is the fact that the mounting for the carb on the inlet manifold is a side mounting, so the SU set up should go straight on........ fingers crossed........ Best wishes, Mike.
  25. I've done the same. I have always painted my engines without undercoat, as the paint doesn't usually require it and I believe it can lead to it pealing. Did you use a high temp resistant undercoat? No, just about the engine I've acquired, which came from a Spitfire originally, my car's a Herald 1200. Best wishes, Mike.
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