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Mike Crewes

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Posts posted by Mike Crewes

  7. Stag Indicator Upgrade

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Guys

     

    When I tow my caravan with my Stag, I find that the caravan indicators are very dim.  Having had similar problems years ago with a Spitfire I know it's the indicator flasher unit that is not powerful enough; so does anyone know which one I need to get to overcome this problem, please?

     

    Many thanks

    Mike

  8. Speedo correction

    in General

    Posted

    Mishmosh

     

    Remember the SatNav is historic, it's what you've just achieved as an average between a number of satelites, whereas the speedo is in real time.  The two are not a direct comparison, although pretty close.

     

    Remember also that your car was built with a +/- 10% speedo inaccuracy, so anything inside this is acceptable by law, although you may, of course, wish to 'tune' this.  Modern cars are only allowed +20%, that is, their speedos can only over read, but by up to 20%.

     

    The ACPO speed enforcement guidlines (limit + 10% + 2) is probably to allow for classic cars!

     

    Regards

    Mike

  9. John Lennon , posthumous member

    in General

    Posted

    Doug

     

    As a former Traffic Cop and Courier legal columnist, I have never come across such a law.  The requirement is simply that you should be able to see above the prescribed eyesight test whilst driving.  In my view, if you fail this on a journey, as you did, you stop until it can be rectified, either by some means on yourself (as you did), or by getting someone else to drive.

     

    I have to wear eye correction to drive commercial vehicles and I only carry one set of specs (no contact lenses) and I am not aware that I am committing an offence.

     

    Regards

    Mike

  10. Help!! 2000 Mk2 Newbie

    in Engine

    Posted

    Simon

     

    Welcome to the Forum.  i'm not able to answer many of your questions, but 14 year old fuel probably passed its sell by date 13 years ago.  You will need to contact your local refuse centre to dump it and it may cost.

     

    For parts and advice I recommend Chris Witor; www.chriswitor.com   he's a real enthusiast and expert in 2000s and 2.5s.  Also contact your local Area Organiser in the Area Directory in The Courier; there may be an expert on your door step.

     

    Regards

    Mike

  12. insurance valuation

    in General

    Posted

    I have added various cars to my policy over the years and it's usually around £25 a go! ... then, I moved from FJ many many years ago.  I would follow the advice above, although other insurers are available!

     

    Regards

    Mike

  13. Steam cleaning

    in Engine

    Posted

    Garry

     

    I agree with Pete as well - don't!  Hot pressurised, soapy water can remocve grease from almost anywhere, causing problems later.  In my youth I was a car groomer and we used Jizer and a hose.  Cover electrics first.

     

    Regards

    Mike

  14. Trailer Indicators (Spitfire IV)

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Paul

     

    I had exactly the same problem many years ago, what you need is an upgraded flasher unit, one that is fitted to a car with repeater indicators on the wings.  It will then be powerful enough to light three indicators at a time.

     

    Careful loading any trailer.  If it is too nose heavy it will destroy your ground clearance.  I still have memories of taking to exhaust off on a manhole cover in Wales.  If the trailer nose weight is too light it will snake at high speed.

     

    I proved many years ago that Spitfires can tow small trailers (trailer tents), if you're careful.  I wrote a column called Tourers Talk in The Courier for a while, Bernie in the Studio might be able to help you with which ones.

     

    Regards

    Mike

  15. To sell as whole or in pieces...

    in General

    Posted

    Richy

     

    You may make more money selling the parts individually, but you will undoubtedly be left with a lot.  Some of these may be too good to scrap, but that may be your only option.  I would try and sell it as a whole for restoration, someone may take on what you had hoped to do and never managed.

     

    It would be a shame to break up another (rare) car.

     

    Good luck

    Mike

  18. Early Spitfire Sump Guard

    in General

    Posted

    John

     

    Mine was made from 9mm aluminium tread plate, but you might not need such heavy weight plate.  9mm is difficult to bend, thinner stuff is easier.  If you use tread plate, put the tread side in the engine bay and the smooth side down!

     

    Regards

    Mike

  19. Why did Triumph do this?!!

    in Braking System

    Posted

    I agree with jondhm.  The early cars had servo assistance to all four wheels because the brake balance was needed to be kept.  Later cars probably changed the brake balance, i.e. weeker servo on the front and upgraded wheel cylinders on the rear.  Perhaps the original servo was to strong and causing a brake unbalance. 

     

    The front wheels should ALWAYS have more braking power, because they do more braking.  Under braking, particularly heavy braking, weight is effectively thrown forward so the front brakes need to be more efficient.  If the rear wheels lock under braking, without the fronts locking, the car will swap ends and spin out of control.

     

    Try it on a push bike!  Front only braking is much more controlable than rear only!

     

    Regards

    Mike

  20. Early Spitfire Sump Guard

    in General

    Posted

    Jon

     

    I can't help directly, I'm afraid, but many years ago when I trialed a Herald off road I fitted it with a sumpguard.  I bolted it through the chassis rail flanges, not the rail itself.  I seem to remember that it was fairly flat and easy to make.  Obviously you need to be able to remove it to change the oil, etc.

     

    Regards

    Mike

  21. Insurance.......Grrrrrrrrrr!!

    in General

    Posted

    Taffius

     

    Contact TSSC HQ and get them to agree the value of your car too.  Without Club input you only have a contract between you and the insurance broker, with the Club behind you you have a strong third party that will fight your corner if there is a need.

     

    Regards

    Mike

    • Like 2

  23. Pip and Frank ..Thanks

    in General

    Posted

    I agree.  I have sent Pip & Frank a pm, but they will both be a sad loss.  Having been ALO in the past I know how much work goes into the job and they have put in a tremendous amount over a very long period.

     

    All the best guys, see you around - missing you already!

     

    Regards

    Mike

  24. continuing saga

    in Cooling System

    Posted

    David

     

    If you didn't have a temperature guage, would you be worried?

     

    Just because a temperature guage is reading high, it doesn't mean that your engine temp is high.  My TR7 always reads low, but it is steady, so I don't worry about it - it's just the way it is, the engine always reaches full temp.  The sender, or the guage could be faulty; in my case, probably the sensor.  From top to bottom the temp guage only reads about 5 degrees anyway.  So if it's slightly high, it might only be 1 degree, or so.

     

    My advice is to continue driving the car for a while and keep an eye on it and see if the engine is ACTUALLY getting to hot, then try and fix it, if there's a problem.

     

    Hope that helps a bit.

     

    Regards

    Mike

  25. Drive it Day 2015

    in Meetings

    Posted

    A couple of Cornish members are making the trip, but not sure if they'll get there before 11:30am.  It's a great venue, we started a Trial from there in January and used their new entrance and cafe, it's a significant upgrade.

     

    The rest of Cornwall Area and Cornwall TRs are staying local, but we wish you a good event.

     

    Regards

    Mike

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