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GHILA

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Everything posted by GHILA

  1. Hi SpitFire6, You are correct with the thread sizes. But these apply to the male threads only (Plugs). Female are parallel. Cheers, GHILA
  2. Does anyone know the specification for the above subject. I know that you can buy a kit but I prefer to create my own. By measurement extended strut would be about 650mm, but what strength is needed. I will create my own supports.
  3. If we were 300 miles closer I would do it for you.
  4. You can't get tapered taps, you have to drill and tap parallel and use tapered plugs.
  5. No its not the same as sump and gearbox, its smaller. I would guess they are around 1/2" BSP. To estimate BSP sizes which are based upon pipe size. eg 1/8 BSP + 1/4 = around 3/8* (10mm) OD. Therefore 1/2" BSP generally called 1/2" pipe when I was a lad are around 3/4" OD. Check these sizes on a thread chart.
  6. No it is an 1/8" BSP, use a taper plug, the size is around 10mm OD. (3/8" in Old fashioned)
  7. I have just added a differential drain plug to my 1980 Spitfire 1500. I only had 1/8" BSP taps available so that what I used. Might be considered a bit small, but I considered that I would not be draining on a regular basis so would be acceptable. When you think the oil in there had been in for at least 42 years, as I don't have the cars history. Drilled small 3mm hole removed filler/top up plug and drained oil out, after some days drilled and tapped bottom of casing with 1/8" BSP thread and plugged.
  8. Good morning Gentlemen, well I thought that I was lucky but alas NO. Still wasn't happy with engine so under I go. Result after removing Main bearing cap is bearing material gone and through to copper. The journal itself looks good, next step pull the caps off the big ends to see what they look like. Hoping to replace just shells if I am lucky. Does anyone know if the Main shells can be removed with engine in situ. Using copper pin in oil hole perhaps and rotating crank to push out shell ??. Once again replies appreciated.
  9. Thank you everyone for your replies but I believe that i have found the cause. I noticed that the stay bar securing the radiator was not securely fastened and after tightening up the nut/bolt. the noise disappeared. Result cost free fix.
  10. I have just put my Spitfire 1500 on the road since buying in November and restoring. I have notice a "Heavy Rattle" when the revs reach around 2500. Which is not nice to hear, I am from an engineering background and don't like knocking noises. From your extensive experience is there anything which immediately comes to mind. This does not seem to happen when standing still and lifting the revs. this is definitely an engine noise.
  11. I have had this problem, a new pump had been fitted prior to me purchasing the car (Spitfire 1500). After changing needles to Viton tipped design, now fitted new filters before and after the pump. Keeping fingers crossed.
  12. As above the flashers on my Spitfire 1500, light up but dont flash. The car has stood for 25 years.
  13. I know that I am a bit late but try H Bowers Ltd. I have just bought some for my Spitfire 1500, very reasonable.
  14. Photo of the rubbish from inside the tank, before treating.
  15. I used soda crystals and hot water plus 60off 40mm long hex head bolts. with the tank out and suspended from the garage roof, gave it a good shake in all directions. Left over night emptied out including the bolts. These are hardest to get out due to the lip of the fillee and sender holes. Washed out with washing powder and hot water. Then used a pressure washer. Dried out left for a week then coated with Frost Pro15 Tank Sealer.
  16. Hello, I'm a newbie Geordie from near Ryton, not far from yourself. I have a 1980 registered 1981 Triumph Spitfire 1500, Inca Yellow. purchased in Nov 2020 from up in Edinburgh. I have been restoring ever since and hope to register it in  April as historic. Problems to overcome first. As your in Tynemouth I might be able to see you around.

    123184408_510686513221503_3732668479522604490_n.jpg

    1. Jeffds1360

      Jeffds1360

      Hallo and welcome.

      Looks like we share a passion. 

      It is good to know someone is is 'local'

      I see there is a prospective meet on 18th July(or 28th? not sure, it's a Sunday ) at Morpeth. Have you joined the 'local' area group? seems to be based around witton gilbert or somewhere. .. not to sure again. 

      Yours is a 'modern'  man 1980!

      Keep in touch and keep posting any queries.

      Good luck.

    2. GHILA

      GHILA

      Hello, pleased to have made contact. Just feeling my way through the forum at the moment so i have not as yet joined the " local area group", but I certainly will.

      Cheers

       

    3. Jeffds1360

      Jeffds1360

      Looks like you have a 'bearing' problem.!!

      I'll watch your post. Good luck.

  17. Both needle valve housings had slivers of rubber in them, this afternoon ran the engine for 30 minutes, all ok. I expect to do it again in the near future. Sorry about the photo quality.
  18. Yes I have an inline fuel filter as well, fitted before the pump. I am going to remove the needles again later and clean if needed.
  19. I must say that I am very pleased with all of the replies sent over to me, thank you all. the replacement needle valves are the type with a Viton tip, but as I see it the excess pressure is pushing the valve open, therefore the soft seat is in operative. Am I correct with this diagnosis. I have the in line reducer set to a minimum in theory 1 psi. I do not have the old pump this is in Edinburgh where I bought the car from. I will lift the top of the float chambers again, but as I have messed about with the system there could well be most debris around. I have also cleaned the tank out which was another story. Thank you all again.
  20. Hello everyone, I'm brand new on here and of course I have a problem with my 1980 Triumph Spitfire 1500. before I bought this car in November 2020 it had a new mechanical fuel pump fitted. I thought good. But it seems that it is producing too much pressure for the carbs to handle. resulting in fuel being ejected from the float chambers. this even after fitting new needle valves and an in line pressure reducer. Thinking of changing to an in line electric pump producing around 3psi. has anyone any advise please.
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