[Temp sender compatibility]

An update on why running my SMART fan has such an effect on the temp - it doesn't.

The reading on the temp gauge does drop almost a 1/4 but so does he fuel gauge.

I'm running with an original dynamo and turning the fan on to max must be dropping the voltage of the whole system, including the stabiliser.

 

I have however changed my thermostat to an 82C from the original 73C - no real change - normal running showing just over 3/4.

Changing to a new Red GTR106 drops this to bob-on the 3/4 mark, which will have to do.

[Temp sender compatibility]

On 14/06/2021 at 08:13, Pete Lewis said:

using the heater will obviously take heat out of the system but does it do it without the fan as opening the heater flow changes the bypass 

and it may well have a blocked pipe , the one under the manifold   the adaptor into the water pump can get restricted with crud 

time to check the thermostat  should be an 82C  make sure it has a jiggle pin in its rim to air air bleed out.

do check the voltage stabiliser common point in funny readings you need a steady /pulsed   10.5 volts ( depends if its orig or electronic)

the fact the gauge came from a spitty is of no consequence

Pete

 

 

Thanks for the ideas.

Running with the heater open or closed doesn't seem to make much of a difference until I turn the fan on.

I'll check the manifold pipe and the type of thermostat.

I know the stabiliser is giving out 10V, it is one of the eBay solid state ones

On 14/06/2021 at 11:53, Colin Lindsay said:

So if you turn the heater on, the gauge drops from 'hot' to half way or thereabouts?

No, unless I turn on the fan, which is a blowing monster compared to the original.

[Temp sender compatibility]

My Herald 13/60 runs permanently 'hot' at the 3/4 mark on a Smiths gauge adopted from a MkIV Spitfire.

I've tried a new GTR108 sender and it made no difference.

What does make a difference - nearly a whole 1/4 division - is turning on the fan on the heater (swapped from original to a SMART car) 

Makes the inside toasty but removes any worries about overheating - very welcoming when stuck in the queue to get into last weekend's Newark autojumble.

[Smiths Heater Valve]

Just in case you service your Smiths valve and need to replace the O-ring I fitted a 13mm bulkhead grommet from Halfords in mine.

£1.60 for 2 including 2 x 9mm grommets.

Works like a charm.

[gearbox cover to tunnel gap filler?]

2 hours ago, Mathew said:

These

Them's the fellas.

You will have to grind down one edge though because they are too wide as supplied by IKEA, the centreline of the holes in the plastic cover is narrower than the centreline of the brackets.

[Anyone been out in their car?]

If it isn't going to rain i'll use the Herald for commuting to work. Only 12 miles along country lanes.

Yesterday I knew the fuel was getting low so headed home along the A1 into Grantham.

Whilst sitting at lights in the middle of town she stopped. An embarrassing few minutes whilst I unlocked the boot, turned the fuel handle to Reserve, lifted the plastic tank out, unlocked the filler cap, poured in about 1 litre, got back in the car and drove the 1/2 mile to the Shell garage.

Not going to make that mistake again - handle is staying on Reserve and i'll add another filter into the line above the tank to join the one just before the pump. (I bought 10 filters for £6 on the Bay - not to be sniffed at)

All this just after a fella had rolled his window down to say 'nice car mate'.

Pride comes before a fall.

[Hello from South Lincolnshire]

Stopping was one of the first things I did to the Herald.

Rebuilt the front calipers and fitted Mintex M1144 pads.

So good I've never fitted the servo I bought at the same time.

[Hello from South Lincolnshire]

I've set almost everything right.

I'm now struggling to stop spending money on the little improvements, ie twin carbs and a 4-2-1 exhaust.

Do I really need to go a little bit faster?

[Dirty books]

No idea what happened to him.

I moved jobs to Buxton so didn't head over that way anymore.

I'm sure I must have bought body panels from him as I rebuilt a bonnet, windscreen frame, floor pans and rear wings at the time - all Spit MkIV.

[Hello from South Lincolnshire]

New to the forum with my 13/60.

I over-paid for it last year when I went to look at it.

All my ideas about what to look for and avoid went out the window.

I missed a skewed body, huge gaps one side but close the other, other panel gaps all over the place, shocking paintwork, oil leaks, etc.

But the chassis and body are almost rust free.

Now a year later it is getting close to presentable.

[Dirty books]

I worked in Belper in the early 1990's and called into Andrew Stone's at least once a week.

There was also a Triumph restorer in nearby Darley Abbey and a BL garage between there and work.

All long gone I now assume.

[gearbox cover to tunnel gap filler?]

If you ever buy a wardrobe from IKEA they are all supplied with square silver plates with keyholes - designed to help secure the furniture to the wall.

I used these to fix my plastic cover in place of the expensive genuine options.

Worked like a charm.

[Ptfe or not?]

If it is still  a plan I'm not sure if putting a ring of solder around a stainless steel pipe will work - will solder stick to stainless?