cliff.b

It is true that there isn't a lot of metal there and I'm not sure what the metal is. Possibly finest "chinesium" ☺️

Unlike all the earlier engines the later 1500 had a thick spacing washer between the fuel pump and the block which I believe was to reduce heat transfer. Not sure how hot it gets through. Perhaps worth investigating. Can anyone confirm if the original pump for this engine had screwed in pipework, like the earlier cars, or if it was always like the modern replacement pumps?

When it dies, you could consider immediately opening up a float chamber to see if it is dry. If so then obviously fuel, if not then look elsewhere.

Yes. I have had no problems with the pump itself so will probably leave as is for now but keeping a an eye on it.

I agree, but both the new ones I have bought from different suppliers are like that so I suspect all the new ones probably are. They do vary a bit on price though so perhaps some are better. I suppose an option would be to find an original pump from an older car and do away with the spacer/gasket. Or, as suggested, go electric.

I have fitted the top off my spare pump which is almost identical but not quite. There are no leaks and I have re-routed and secured the flexible hose to minimise stress on the inlet tube. Interestingly, I reseated the old parts and the pipe could easily be removed again but I then put it in the vice and the pipe went in about another 5mm after which I couldn't remove it again. I'm wondering if it was never assembled correctly in the first place. If it was a flawed design then surely others would have seen this?

The offending part, clearly showing some sort of glue in the hole. Is it just aftermarket replacements that are made like this?

I have a glass filter and a motorcycle type fuel tap between the copper pipe and the pump, so maybe it has all been moving about too much. I'm thinking of securing the hose to the distributor mount in some way so that there would be an almost completely straight run to the pump inlet with no possibility of flex at all.

I suspect that you are right 🙄

This is my unused spare pump which looks the same as the one on the car. Looking at the outlet pipe shows evidence of what may be glue or similar.

The inlet pipe is just a push fit into the casting that forms the top of the pump, but it looks like there may be the remnants of some sort of sealant or glue. I could just push it back in but, as I said, it weeps. Thinking back, when I first got the car the pump was leaking and I ordered the wrong part (early 1500 Spit instead of late) so just swapped the top cap & gasket over. So this cap, with the push in pipe, is from the replacement pump I bought about 3 years ago. I'm guessing there will be others.

Definitely. I was investigating the fuel lines as I seem to have lost fuel over the Winter and there has been a slight smell of petrol every time I went in the garage. I'm wondering if this inlet pipe weeping was the problem all along.

Just remembered I have a spare pump anyway lol. I can swap the top off that, which includes the inlet pipe, and still keep the body as a spare.

I was replacing some fuel lines yesterday and when I attempted to remove the one to the fuel pump inlet the entire inlet pipe came out of its housing. I have pushed it back in and secured the hose but it is now slightly weeping fuel. Does anyone have any recommendations for something petrol resistant that I could seal it with and hopefully stop it coming out again? Or should I just replace the fuel pump? I have heard that new ones often don't last.

I have an old set of playing cards that I use for the same purpose.

Regarding the cooling of the electronics, when I fitted Accuspark to my Spitfire nearly 3 years ago it came with a sachet of heat sink compound, as used when fitting a PC CPU. If the module is to be removed and refitted it is probably a good idea to use some more each time. I did this when I re-used the module on a new distributor and have had no problems.

Yes, the tick over may be a co-incidence. I tried a couple of those motorcycle Db killer things last year and it was a but quieter but didn't sound nice anymore. And after a while one of them developed a rattle I couldn't get rid of so I removed them. Unless anyone has dire warnings of problems this may cause I think I will just run it like this for a while and see what happens.

My Spitfire has a non standard exhaust with twin tailpipes which has always been too loud and gets annoying on longer journeys. I found the silencer had been cut open and welded, presumably to remove baffles but I am loath to replace it as it is in ok condition and I quite like the twin tailpipe look. So as an experiment, I removed the tailpipes, inserted a handful of "teased out" wire wool up each orifice and replaced the tailpipes to hold it all in place. IT now still sounds good and is definitely quieter. Performance doesn't seem to have been affected but the tick over is a bit lower. Overall, I'm pleased so far with the outcome but just wondering if it is a good idea. Would greater exhaust back pressure be enough to reduce the tick over and if so, could that lead to any problems? Interested in any experience or opinions.

I had forgotten that John Cooper had built the "Twini" and had a nasty accident in it. https://www.classicandsportscar.com/news/csc-features/mini-twini-twin-engined-four-wheel-drive-concept-tested-in-full

Someone did similar with a mini moke, didn't they 🤔

I believe Citroen actually sold a double engined 4x4 version of the 2CV called the Sahara for a while in the late 50's/early 60's.

That explains the Capris and Escorts I remember

After watching another programme with Martin Shaw in, my Wife has just started The Professionals series 1 and I had completely forgotten they were all driving Triumphs. Bodie & Doyle in TR7s, Cowley in a Dolomite and the girl in the story driving a Spitfire. Makes it much more interesting 😊

That's interesting as I have tried to keep exhaust heat away from the carbs by lagging the downpipes and extending the heat shield to curve under the carbs & encourage a flow of cooler air past them. Seems to work well at stopping problems when the weather is hot but never considered any possible consequences in the cold. But then I don't expect I will drive it much in the cold. Saying that, it's -6C outside at the moment but it's sunny and the roads look dry👍

I assumed they would adjust relative to engine running temp, not ambient temp. Certainly they won't be exposed to ambient temp once the engine is running.