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Posts posted by cliff.b

  1. 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    air lock springs to mind  as one idea     does the thermostat have a jiggle pin to aid trapped air ,?

    then as the two events may not be connected  was  it actually HOT or just reading Hot as mis reading can be a stabiliser problem rather than an engine problem  any stry wires around the coil zone  , see other post about intermittent frayed wire shorting at the solenoid 



    Thermostat does have a jiggle pin.

    I am assuming it did actually get hot because the electric fans came on and stayed on for some time which never usually happens now I have the mechanical one fitted.

    Engine has always run smoothly as well since I got it sorted so while I agree it could be a co-incidence, it's strange when two things that never usually happen both occur at the same time.

    My only experience of airlocks has been after replacing coolant and not on this car. I haven't even needed to top it up since I drained & flushed it in May. Can they just randomly occur?

    I think I will check everything out and then "force myself" to take her out as much as possible while the weather is ok. If it happens again I will try and gather some more information to hopefully give some clues as to what's going on. 

  2. 24 minutes ago, Mathew said:

    Stuck thermostat? Then open!?

    Actually, there's something I forgot to mention. I have refitted a normal cooling fan but the electric ones are still fitted, they just very rarely come on now. Normally only if I come to a complete stop after driving some distance at speed and then only briefly.

    But they came on this time, stayed on much longer than normal and on again every time I stopped.

    The sensor is in the rad return pipe so I assumed I must have hotter than normal water flowing through the rad which would mean the thermostat was open.

    But you have got me thinking, if the thermostat was stuck closed could that lead to a reverse flow of hot water into the rad via the bottom hose?


  3. Just taken my Spit 1500 out nowhere in particular as it was sunny and hit some stop/start traffic after driving about 4 miles at no more than 50mph.

    Suddenly, the car started misfiring badly when pulling away, although it was ticking over ok. Sounded like it wasn't running on all cylinders.

    Pulled into a side road to check things out and the misfire disappeared however, the temp gauge was reading far higher than usual. Drove on and the gauge was still rising, even with the heater on full blast. Then, just at the point where I thought I would have to stop the gauge fell rapidly from over 3/4 to just over 1/4 before gradually climbing to its usual position just below halfway.

    The car was now running perfectly and I drove it another 10 miles without any problem.

    So at the moment, I'm wondering if the misfire was caused by overheating, but can't think what would cause that to suddenly happen and then resolve itself.

    Or is there any form of misfire that could have caused the rise in temperature?

    This was my first run out after filling the tank with fuel on Saturday (Super Unleaded). A partial blockage in one carb might explain the misfire. Could this result in weak running that would lead to a temp rise.

    I'm pleased the car is running ok now but don't like it when I don't understand why 🤔

  4. If, like mine, it's the later 1500 (77 onwards I think), it's a very easy job. 

    At least it would have been if I had investigated more thoroughly and discovered the indicator/dip/horn unit clamps to the steering column and you don't have to remove the 2 small bolts.

    If you do decide to remove the 2 small bolts then the switch assembly falls apart and that took far more time to put right than it took me to fit the bush 😒

  5. On this subject, I went electric on my Spit earlier in the year, used a sensor in the bottom hose and managed to fit the control dial in the cockpit.

    I set it at 85C and the fans came on when I slowed below about 30MPH, at which point the temp gauge still reported just below halfway.

    However, I noticed that if driving steadily on dual carriageway my oil pressure was gradually dropping which concerned me.

    So I got hold of a correct plastic fan, fitted it, leaving the electric stuff in place but they never came on again until I dropped the thermostat to 80C. This has caused them to come on briefly if stopping in traffic after driving at speed. My oil pressure is no longer dropping.

    So this suggests to me that water returning to the engine was hovering around 85 Deg relying on fanless air flow but is under 80C with the mechanical plastic fan. Interestingly, there is no discernable difference in the temperature gauge which shows mostly just below normal.

    I'm thinking that the heat from the higher returning water was mostly being absorbed by the oil so the water leaving the engine wasn't significantly hotter but the oil is, which is why the pressure was dropping. However, I would be interested in any other theories.

    Obviously, I could have used just the electrics and set the thermostat lower, which may have done the job, but only because they would be on all the time which seemed a bit pointless.

  6. 16 minutes ago, clive said:

    The support off the diff is the most important one. I use an old fashioned rubber strap/hanger, bolted to the diff, and a 90degree bracket at the other end which is in turn clamped with a U bracket/clamp to the pipe. 

    Because it's not standard I don't think I can clamp it there. The pipe passes directly under the diff centerline with only a few mm clearance. The silencer is held solidly though and doesn't move at all. 

    Think I need to look at the entire system and make a plan.

  7. Many thanks both. My car has a non standard exhaust with the silencer secured to the boot floor underside by 4 bolts with rubber cushions. And that's it, nothing between that and the manifold.

    Clearly one supporting the Y of the downpipe makes sense and probably another between that and the silencer.

    Despite this though, I have been away for the weekend, covering over 150 miles and my temporary manifold/downpipe repair has lasted ok.

    Think I need to decide what I'm going to do and get/make all the bits before sorting the entire exhaust properly.

  8. 57 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    Ahh, yes. Looks like I need the exhaust mounting bracket which it says is no longer available. 

    Will have to try and make something suitable.

    Temp repair now in place and continues to seal after car driven about 20 miles.

    I think I may need to take it out again later, just to be sure it's ok 🤔

  9. 1 hour ago, Mark B said:

    Make sure the exhaust down pipe is supported at the bottom of the gearbox bell housing.

    It's not currently and I was thinking it should be. Where does the bracket attach?

    Is it actually to a bellhousing bolt?

  10. 3 minutes ago, NonMember said:

    ... to be replaced with other issues of poor fit, lack of clearance, increased noise, etc.  Not that I disagree - I opted for the 4-branch on my 1500 Mk3 because I didn't have a 1500 manifold to start with, but some chassis mods were needed to make it fit.

    I'm thinking I will look out for a used standard manifold and get new studs/bolts etc. Taking all the above advice into account.

  11. 34 minutes ago, DanMi said:

    Are we talking the manifold to head gasket here (as I assumed) or the pesky manifold to exhaust. If the latter just get a 4 branch as you will have to replace the manifold, might be worth it in either case I don't have the issue as the mk2 had a 4 branch as standard.

    Yes, I should have clarified that it is the manifold to downpipe joint blowing and the front corner of the manifold flange has cracked across the hole.


  12. Ok, I have taken a look and getting the nuts/studs out wasn't a problem because none of them were tight, despite me tightening all of them a couple of months ago. I suspect this may be the problem🤔.

    On inspecting further I found a distinct lack of lock washers, and in fact the middle fixing was a nut and bolt that was too short to have any fitted. Also, the front hole in the manifold had a crack across the hole and the corner fell off when the nut was loosened.

    I prised the joint apart a few mm and forced gun gum all around, fitted new bolt & wagers and everything had tightened up, even the damaged corner.

    I will tape it up & try it later but wondering now if I will need a new manifold 😒.


  13. Spit 1500 manifold gasket blown and replacement ordered but had planned to use car this weekend.

    Has anyone had any experience of any product or "bodge" to make a temporary, effective repair for a few days?

    Is "Gun Gum" (which I already have) up to the job?

  14. 36 minutes ago, Anglefire said:

    You can use the LHD switch and swap it over to RHD - I did it, but can't remember what I did to get the arrows to be right - may have swapped the arm itself.

    That doesn't concern me too much. I don't think I have ever actually looked at the arrows when deciding which way to move the stalk lol. 

  15. 36 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

    Only a small point, but I think there's a problem with the decal on the cowl, I vaguely recall having to source a mirror image one. 

    Turn this upside down and it still points the same way.




    Think I could live with that, lol.

    I might not need a new switch now, anyway.

    Dismantled the old one and cleaned it all while still on the car. Unfortunately, during reassembly, while holding 2 springs compressed, my finger slipped and one of these little white plastic pieces flew away over my head.


    As expected, I couldn't find it but continued putting it back together after which it worked, but the indicator switch didn't latch.

    Today, I went to open the boot a Tesco's & found the tiny part stuck to the side of the petrol filler cap. But the cap wasn't noticeably sticky and I had taken the car out twice since the part disappeared, covering about 20 miles.

    Very strange, but having found it, I will try stripping down again and including it this time. With that amount of luck I have high hopes 👍



  16. Vendors of the LHD switches claim they can be used to replace a RHD version by using the metal plate from the old switch. Looking at pictures of both it appears the only difference is the position of the mounting holes for the wiper/washer switch.

    So, has anyone done this and if so, did all go to plan.

    Or, I'm wondering if I got a LHD wiper switch as well, could I fit both and make the switch layout the same as all the modern cars I drive, thus avoiding frequent unplanned use of the wipers when approaching a junction lol

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