cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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1 hour ago, Morgana said:
Does the pump get hot being attached to the engine? Epoxy resins like Araldite usually 'let go' around 60C.
One possibility would be to thread both parts with a parallel pipe thread and fibre washer for the seal at the bottom of the recess. With the pressures involved a fuel-resistant dowty washer would likely not be necessary. A tapered thread hosetail would lock against a parallel female thread, but I would not think alloy would be suitable for that method.
Depending on what the bottom of the recess looks like, perhaps an olive connection could seal there?
Any mechanical method would seem better to me than a doubtful adhesive! 🤔
Unlike all the earlier engines the later 1500 had a thick spacing washer between the fuel pump and the block which I believe was to reduce heat transfer. Not sure how hot it gets through. Perhaps worth investigating.
Can anyone confirm if the original pump for this engine had screwed in pipework, like the earlier cars, or if it was always like the modern replacement pumps?
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1 hour ago, PeteH said:
The only thing I`ve done since yesterday, apart from lowering the car back down off the stands after I had topped up the diff; Is go round with a socket and check/tighten the hose clips, after having disconnected the fuel line to the carb; inlet to test the pump was supplying fuel?. It will fast idle for up to a minute or longer then dies?. I`ll try bleeding it though again in the morning. And see how that goes with the battery now on charge overnight.
Pete
When it dies, you could consider immediately opening up a float chamber to see if it is dry. If so then obviously fuel, if not then look elsewhere.
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22 minutes ago, johny said:
trouble with an original pump is the valves and diaphragm will be flagging unless renewed...
Yes. I have had no problems with the pump itself so will probably leave as is for now but keeping a an eye on it.
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9 minutes ago, johny said:
I think its getting it to seal which is the hard part and glue isnt really a good solution for a manufacturer...
I agree, but both the new ones I have bought from different suppliers are like that so I suspect all the new ones probably are. They do vary a bit on price though so perhaps some are better. I suppose an option would be to find an original pump from an older car and do away with the spacer/gasket. Or, as suggested, go electric.
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I have fitted the top off my spare pump which is almost identical but not quite. There are no leaks and I have re-routed and secured the flexible hose to minimise stress on the inlet tube.
Interestingly, I reseated the old parts and the pipe could easily be removed again but I then put it in the vice and the pipe went in about another 5mm after which I couldn't remove it again. I'm wondering if it was never assembled correctly in the first place. If it was a flawed design then surely others would have seen this?
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The offending part, clearly showing some sort of glue in the hole. Is it just aftermarket replacements that are made like this?
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5 minutes ago, johny said:
All I can suggest is that you make sure the rubber hose has plenty of excess flex in the way of a loop so that it transmits as little vibration or stress to the pipe
I have a glass filter and a motorcycle type fuel tap between the copper pipe and the pump, so maybe it has all been moving about too much.
I'm thinking of securing the hose to the distributor mount in some way so that there would be an almost completely straight run to the pump inlet with no possibility of flex at all.
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2 minutes ago, johny said:
I think the originals were cast with the pipes in place so they were well and truly attached but the pattern part makers now bond them in after casting which is a lot easier but not so reliable☹️
I suspect that you are right 🙄
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This is my unused spare pump which looks the same as the one on the car.
Looking at the outlet pipe shows evidence of what may be glue or similar.
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1 hour ago, Morgana said:
I haven't seen this style. Does it not have an olive and screw? It seems a problem waiting to happen with dissimilar metals otherwise!
The inlet pipe is just a push fit into the casting that forms the top of the pump, but it looks like there may be the remnants of some sort of sealant or glue. I could just push it back in but, as I said, it weeps.
Thinking back, when I first got the car the pump was leaking and I ordered the wrong part (early 1500 Spit instead of late) so just swapped the top cap & gasket over. So this cap, with the push in pipe, is from the replacement pump I bought about 3 years ago. I'm guessing there will be others.
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8 minutes ago, johny said:
Even better but give the pipes of the spare a good tug first😁
Definitely. I was investigating the fuel lines as I seem to have lost fuel over the Winter and there has been a slight smell of petrol every time I went in the garage. I'm wondering if this inlet pipe weeping was the problem all along.
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Just remembered I have a spare pump anyway lol. I can swap the top off that, which includes the inlet pipe, and still keep the body as a spare.
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I was replacing some fuel lines yesterday and when I attempted to remove the one to the fuel pump inlet the entire inlet pipe came out of its housing. I have pushed it back in and secured the hose but it is now slightly weeping fuel.
Does anyone have any recommendations for something petrol resistant that I could seal it with and hopefully stop it coming out again? Or should I just replace the fuel pump? I have heard that new ones often don't last.
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21 hours ago, Mjit said:
That's basically what I did with index cards - but without bothering to re-inflate the tyre. Certainly if you're using rattle cans you're unlikely to blow out something lightly tucked into the gap between rim and tyre.
Deffinetly a lot quicker that any tape method!
I have an old set of playing cards that I use for the same purpose.
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3 hours ago, johny said:
Thats right Mick, with this type of unit theres nothing else. This is good for looks and simplicity but possibly bad for the cooling of the electronics...
Be aware that when swopping between the module and points the ignition timing will probably need resetting. Because of this I have bought just a spare module (11 pounds ebay) which I can install by the roadside, undoing the little allen screws and so hopefully leaving the timing unaffected...
Regarding the cooling of the electronics, when I fitted Accuspark to my Spitfire nearly 3 years ago it came with a sachet of heat sink compound, as used when fitting a PC CPU.
If the module is to be removed and refitted it is probably a good idea to use some more each time. I did this when I re-used the module on a new distributor and have had no problems.
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16 minutes ago, johny said:
Id be very surprised if it affected tickover as any restriction will have most affect at higher gas flows ie when doing a lot of revs so at idle the back pressure change should be negligible. However keep an eye on the wire wool as it may either disintegrate or bung up over time....
Ive installed a motorcycle adjustable tubular baffle in the end of my Vitesse single stainless silencer and it has reduced noise with no other effects.
Yes, the tick over may be a co-incidence. I tried a couple of those motorcycle Db killer things last year and it was a but quieter but didn't sound nice anymore. And after a while one of them developed a rattle I couldn't get rid of so I removed them.
Unless anyone has dire warnings of problems this may cause I think I will just run it like this for a while and see what happens.
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My Spitfire has a non standard exhaust with twin tailpipes which has always been too loud and gets annoying on longer journeys.
I found the silencer had been cut open and welded, presumably to remove baffles but I am loath to replace it as it is in ok condition and I quite like the twin tailpipe look.
So as an experiment, I removed the tailpipes, inserted a handful of "teased out" wire wool up each orifice and replaced the tailpipes to hold it all in place.
IT now still sounds good and is definitely quieter. Performance doesn't seem to have been affected but the tick over is a bit lower.
Overall, I'm pleased so far with the outcome but just wondering if it is a good idea. Would greater exhaust back pressure be enough to reduce the tick over and if so, could that lead to any problems?
Interested in any experience or opinions.
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I had forgotten that John Cooper had built the "Twini" and had a nasty accident in it.
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4 hours ago, Chris A said:
1960 to 66 with just short of 700 examples being sold. Citröen took it up after a Norman engineer made one. They were really meant to be used in specialised areas by specialised people, i.e. not for general public use. They weren't very practical - 2 petrol tanks meant not much room in the back, engine in boot as well as the standard one up front, so no boot space. Plus as said, probably more than once 'double the engine double the problems' that would have been less polite in the original French use. Of course the car had a massive power output as a result of the work a mind blowing 26hp - no I haven't missed a zero out.
When one does come up for sale a potential buyer has to have deep pockets as a couple of hundred thousand of our Euros will be needed to pay for it.
Someone did similar with a mini moke, didn't they 🤔
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On 07/02/2024 at 14:47, Chris A said:
One 2cv that had to do stunts required modifying and became a 4 wheel drive with 2 engines, one for the front wheels, one for the rear. I gather they weren't ' synchronised ' and it was lethal to drive and not a joke. Yes in the film it was ' surprisingly.
I believe Citroen actually sold a double engined 4x4 version of the 2CV called the Sahara for a while in the late 50's/early 60's.
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1 hour ago, andybeau said:
They would have carried on with them, but BL couldn't deliver the same cars every time so Ford took over 🫣🙄🤷♂️
That explains the Capris and Escorts I remember
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After watching another programme with Martin Shaw in, my Wife has just started The Professionals series 1 and I had completely forgotten they were all driving Triumphs.
Bodie & Doyle in TR7s, Cowley in a Dolomite and the girl in the story driving a Spitfire. Makes it much more interesting 😊
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8 hours ago, GrahamB said:
I once had a problem with a car which I had fitted with a Weber carb. On cold damp days after travelling for about 10 miles, the engine would lack power and drink fuel. I finally realised that it was icing of the jets. This was cured by constructing a shroud to direct air from above the exhaust manifold towards the air filter. During my investigation of the cause, I used a thermocouple to measure the under bonnet temperature. Whilst driving along, the temperature was close to ambient but as soon as I had to stop in traffic, the temperature rose by more than 20 degrees and any ice promptly melted.
That's interesting as I have tried to keep exhaust heat away from the carbs by lagging the downpipes and extending the heat shield to curve under the carbs & encourage a flow of cooler air past them. Seems to work well at stopping problems when the weather is hot but never considered any possible consequences in the cold. But then I don't expect I will drive it much in the cold.
Saying that, it's -6C outside at the moment but it's sunny and the roads look dry👍
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On 16/01/2024 at 20:48, johny said:
Is that what waxstats are intended to do?
I assumed they would adjust relative to engine running temp, not ambient temp. Certainly they won't be exposed to ambient temp once the engine is running.
Fuel pump repair
in Fuel System
Posted
It is true that there isn't a lot of metal there and I'm not sure what the metal is. Possibly finest "chinesium" ☺️