cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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48 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
but a little while back you said it wasnt noisy
never talk where they can hear you as they sit outside and workout how to get their own back
Pete
Ha ha, that makes a lot of sense.
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1 hour ago, Chris A said:
Not in the noisy car I assume. Hope you can fit it easily without too many naughty words!
No, not in the noisy car lol
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
ha so right forst time its not uncommon do check or replace the keyway most are a pig to undo but yes they go missing
if you can get hold of a impact gun you dont need to lock the flywheel up
dont rely on putting in gear you can over torque the clutch hub damper springs
1500 pulley nut is 150lbft the engine max torque is 81lbft you can see where this might lead you must lock the flywheel or impact the nut
so its starter off or any other idea
Pete
Thanks for the "heads up" regarding the clutch 👍
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TRGB have a NOS nut on the shelf for under a tenner and only a few miles away.
Off to get it shortly.
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45 minutes ago, johny said:
Might be best to inspect the key and pulley as if it has rattled around for long it could have done some damage🤞
Yes, probably a good idea.
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18 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:
There was a noise/heavy rattle which made us look under the bonnet, pure luck we found it! I've got the 46mm modified socket in my tool kit but unfortunately your too far away!
My Dolly Sprint felt terrible on Weds when I started it. the car idled well but felt like an engine or gearbox mount had failed with heavy vibration through the car after a short run it was no better so after checking all mounts and engine tie bars I noticed the engine rear exhaust manifold bolt had come loose and jammed between the suspension turrant and also jammed in the manifold it was slightly bent, its around 3.75in long and the gap space between the manifold and inner wing/turrant joint only 2.75in so there's no way of removing it or replacing it with the engine in place, so I recirp saw cut it out now how to replace it? I think a 3/8 plus hole thro the inner wing from the wheel arch so a long 3/8in threaded bar around 4.5in long can be fitted thro and into the manifold threaded into the head and a nut in place of bolt, being Triumph there has to be a BUT. a steel brake pipe is in the way when drilling the hole, hopefully I can protect it and pull it out of the way! Gawd Sprints are hard work compared to Spits and Vitesse's
On the bright side, at least you will have a sense of achievement when it's done 🙄
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8 minutes ago, johny said:
I imagine that would sound exactly like the noise you have...
I am hoping so as simple & cheap to fix if that is the case 🤞
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4 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
Happened to a friends 1500 Spit fortunately we found it on the front lawn needed a 46mm socket to tighten it but also had to cut the socket down by around 20 mm to clear the radiator with .75 to .5 in reducing drive for 1/2 in breaker Bar tighten
Hmm, perhaps more common than I imagined then. Was his one noisy?
I will have a look around on my drive later. The only thing that is more surprising than it falling off is how much s new one is 😒
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I posted this on the club Facebook page as well and someone said they had the same noise and the nut holding the crank pulley had come off. I just went out with a torch to check and sure enough, mine has gone. No idea how and why I didn't hear it leaving.
Hopefully, this is the cause but won't find out for certain until I manage to get a replacement.
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2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
It's metal on metal; possibly the exhaust?
I did think that but can't see where, at the moment. It's definitely in the engine area though so I think it would only be the downpipe against the chassis, which doesn't seem to be the case.
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17 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
check the crank puley nut is tight
I will check that tomorrow. Tried to work out where the sound is coming from, listening with a long screwdriver, and it does seem to be from the bottom end of the engine. I was wondering if it could be a big end going, but would the noise dissspear when the revs rise?
Or what about timing chain/tensioner?
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3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
so to fibbed aout no more noises !!!!!!!!!!!!
looking at the way the fan is wobbling about i would plump for the water pump has afailed bearing
get hold of it and give it a jiggle if it moves ...its stuffed
Pete
Still does it with the fan belt off.
I can't here it at higher revs, only at tickover and the slower the tickover the louder it is
Here is a clip with it slowed right down almost to stalling
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Noticed today when ticking over with the bonnet open.
Seems to be running well apart from this. Can't pinpoint where it's coming from.
Any thoughts?
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1 hour ago, Stratton Jimmer said:
If you have an inertia starter, the dog may be sticking in the starter ring. The idea with these is that the motor is not initially engaged with the starter ring and when current is supplied, the dog leaps forward and engages. If it is already engaged, you will get the symptoms you describe - heavy current draw but no action. Rocking the car backwards while in gear will usually free the dog which can then do its job properly. The shaft must be clean so that the dog can run freely too and from the starter ring. As Johny says, you can find out what the problem is by removing the motor and examining the starter ring and motor.
I have had this problem multiple times over the years with a variety of cars.
Usually, hitting the starter with a hammer released the Bendix, until the next time.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
Good But if you cant hear anything ............... sumats wrong
Pete
I didn't say there weren't any noises, just not from that area lol.
Now the alternator is another matter 🙄
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Out for a drive today and now covered 100+ miles since replacing the damaged shaft/bearings & the UJ. All feels smooth, can't hear any unexpected noises & both bearings barely warm so hoping the jobs a good'un 🤞
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3 hours ago, Chris A said:
Well at long last I have replaced the cable from the pressure sensor to the warning light. The order I was waiting for finally arrived once the out of stock item was received by the supplier.
The result is : No flicker with a LED. Not when the car is stationary at least, it did flicker before when stationary. The real proof will be when I get to take it for a proper run. That could be tomorrow or failing that won't be until at least Tuesday of next week, I have to prepare for a big event this weekend - no not the Classic Le Mans happening an hour away from me but taking Mrs. to the far opposite end of the department for her 3 week thermal cure (3 weeks freedom for me also).
I am quite pleased with myself as I de-soldered the old wire from the bulb holder and soldered in the new wire rather than just cut and fit a bullet connector or such.
As I'm here, how tight should the pressure sensor be when done up? The one fitted is very tight!
I have a higher pressure sensor that I want to fit - so I get to see the bright green light a bit longer on starting the engine 😁
Glad the plan appears to have worked 👍
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38 minutes ago, johny said:
How many spacers did you remove to get toe-in at the rear? And yes if tyre wear is acceptable and theres no other problems it sounds like you have a good set up...
I measured the toe with 2 x2m lengths of straight wood & then swapped sides to eliminate anything that wasn't true. I can't remember the exact amount but the distance between the wood in front of the wheels was a few mm more than behind the wheels, so I assumed I had slight toe out.
Removed one shim and then the measurement was less on the front of the wheel, so I assumed I had slight toe in.
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1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:
Why? Depends what the camber actually is!
Given that positive camber has never been the best news for cornering grip and that tyre technology has moved on a bit since the factory set those figures, I would suggest that for normal road use you want 0.25 - 0.5 degrees negative camber. Bit more negative if you like to throw it around.
For caster, go with the factory settings (3-4 deg iirc) and toe at 1-3mm toe in measured at the tyre tread. Parallel setting sharpens the turn-in a little but wears the inside edges of the tyres a bit quicker and can make it a bit wriggly under heavy braking.
Don't be afraid to experiment a little. Tyre pressures make a big difference too and the original Triumph specs are odd….
Nick
As a rough measurement using a spirit level and a rule, the top of the rims are leaning in approx 1/4 inch compared to the bottom of the 13" rims which, if my calculations are correct, gives somewhere in the region of 1.5deg negative camber.
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34 minutes ago, johny said:
My MK1 Vitesse always felt as if the back end wanted to come dangerously out of line especially on roundabouts in the wet so I increased rear toe-in removing two tie bar spacers each side and installed a half inch lowering block (alright I know I shouldnt have done two things at once, ooops and Ive change the tyres as well) and it feels a lot better. I'll have to see how tyre wear goes and maybe put back a spacer each side....
My car felt a bit scary when I first got it on the road last year, but the feeling of instability at the back was cured by changing from slight toe out to slight toe in. The steering was massively improved by replacing the front tyres which were a lower profile than the rear ones, giving a nose down stance, (I think this may have reduced the effective caster angle). Finally, I found several loose suspension bolts and experimented with tyre pressures.
Now, apart from needing to concentrate on steering if a road has a poor surface, it mostly feels steady as a rock, runs and brakes straight "hands off" and corners very well.
Maybe I should leave well alone 🤔
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25 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
wsm says 2deg Pos static laden does not specifiy spitfire in the wsm for herald > vitesse6 spit 4 to lll
vit/GT6 has some unladen specs 3,1/4 deg pos unladen and 2 +-1/2 deg static laden
so 1.5 to 2.5 deg laden seems the ball park
Pete
Ok, many thanks.
I think the only way to decide if I should remove these spacers is to try it and then see how the car feels.
But having inspected all the front suspension components I think I will replace the bushes and some of the bolts before too long, so probably would make sense to try it then.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
many cars are set up incorrectly as they dont follow the static height requirement for many of the specification triumph list
thats the nutshell of 150 lbs on EACH seat to set the suspn to its running average height
Pete
Yes, I've heard that previously but the figure given in the Haines manual (2 to 4deg positive) specifically says with no occupants.
Do you know if the camber spec is different to this if loaded like you have said?
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13 minutes ago, NonMember said:
It's probably true and has very little to do with the rear suspension's peculiarities. Nearly all road cars are deliberately set up to understeer, because a non-expert driver is far more likely to react appropriately to understeer than oversteer.
Yes, that makes sense, I suppose.
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I have also asked for opinions regarding this on the TSSC Facebook site and one member, who it would appear races a GT6, suggests that the positive camber and low front tyre pressures were specified to induce some moderate understeer for safety reasons.
If this is true, I presume it would have been to compensate for the potentially interesting dynamics of the original rear suspension.
Has anyone else ever heard of this?
New noise 😒
in Engine
Posted
Ok, nut fitted, not as tight as it should be but tight enough to test and yes, the nasty noise has gone 🤞
I decided to take the pulley off to inspect and interestingly, there was no perceptible play, but the pulley did pull off easily.
I need to get a suitable socket now and tighten properly.