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cliff.b

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Posts posted by cliff.b

  1. Electric Herald

    in Engine

    Posted

    When trying to get to sleep I sometimes work through the practicalities of adding, not replacing, an electric motor to my Spitfire, just to be used in short "blasts" to improve acceleration. Maybe 10KW or so with maybe 1KW of battery.

    My latest musings have the motor in front of the engine with a connection to the crankshaft, like a blower Bentley lol.

    If still awake, I move on to thoughts of using this to replace the starter motor, alternator and existing battery, using a convertor to drop down the motor voltage to 12v for existing ancillaries.

    Am I going mad 🥴

  10. Fitting accu-form dash top to Spitfire

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    16 minutes ago, clive said:

    I didn't use any sealants etc when I did my mkIV spitfire. I found I had to trim the original dash pad at the front to have enough space to get it under the screen seal (I really didn't want to push it in too hard for fear of damage) and that meant taking the dash pad off, though in situ trimming may have been possible.

    There are a few areas where it is off the old dashpad and can be felt when prssed, so a bit of silicone would add support, but I don't see I will have any issues, nobody goes round banging dash tops. Looks smart too, I am very pleased with mine.

    How does it seat against the dashboard? 

  14. Triumph dashboards - who supplies these days?

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Casper said:

    FWIW

    +1 for Rustin's Plastic Coating but be aware that it is (technically) not UV resistant and mine in the Cv has started to crack after 20 years (wish the remainder of the resto had stood up so well).

    Seems we all find Humbrol brown works well.

    Danish oil is in a category of 'drying' oils, like boiled linseed oil (BLO). These both soak somewhat into the wood (stabilising it) and lie on the surface to give a finish. They do not dry but react with oxygen in the air to form a polymer.  A few coats may be required to build up to level the grain of the wood.  While not exactly solid it will end up being pretty hard (more so than BLO due to the various additives in the formulation).  Note that Rustin's Danish Oil will give a gloss finish, while Blackfriars seems to only give a semi-gloss or matte finish.

    No experience with Briwax.

    C.

    Edit: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil

    Interesting stuff👍

    If it lasts 20 years then that's probably long enough as I doubt I will be able to get in a Spitfire by then 😒

  17. Triumph dashboards - who supplies these days?

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

    With my Sprint which had the dash restored my a PO using marine epoxy lacquer, it looks good but in retrospect there have been issues for new players eg the glove box lid the PO had not only painted the front and rear copiously but also the edges so the lid struck shut when closed, problem compounded by the build up of lacquer on both the lid and main dash aperture. The solution was to remove the glove box lid and quite heavily sand around the outside to obtain the necessary clearance then repaint the raw edge with a thin coat of Airfix brown Humbol paint.

    The bigger problem was the instrument panel the edges were copiously covered with marine epoxy lacquer but also the dash had been recovered, so the instrument panel fit into the dash fit was far to tight, to the point I was scared of damaging the panel when trying to remove. This required the removal of ALL instruments and the instrument panel removal and the edges heavily sanded then lightly sealed with Humbol so the panel fitted into the smaller dash area.

    The PO learnt on the Sprint he has subsequently restored a Stag, Mini Cooper, TR4, Mk2 Jag, E Type, Mini 850 & early 50's 175cc Moto Guzzi bike. 

    Yes, I can see the potential for problems. I'm hoping that they should be easier to avoid on a Spit dash as nothing opens

  19. Triumph dashboards - who supplies these days?

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    15 minutes ago, NonMember said:

    I generally use a good quality brush. It's a 2-part so you have to mix, apply and clean up in a reasonable time, but it's not that quick drying so there's no problem doing so. Leave some time between coats (I forget how long but it's on the instructions in the pack). As I said, lots of coats to get the full depth of finish. You'll probably need to flat it before the last couple of coats, which means leaving longer to set before that.

    Ok, thanks

  23. Triumph dashboards - who supplies these days?

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    On 08/01/2022 at 15:03, Badwolf said:

    On past experience I would try a ' rubbing wax' polish as when warm it will soak into the veneer nicely or Danish Oil. Everyone has their own 'works for me' ideas. I share mine for your evaluation.

    Hi, can you please clarify what you mean by "rubbing wax". Is that specifically for wood?

    I have applied the first piece of veneer and not sure I want it varnished now.IMG_20220112_134110_856.thumb.jpg.2c4205fd1c84f57c35d17c71a2090971.jpg

     

  25. Do I need a new distributor

    in Engine

    Posted

    Here is a dismantled picture of the mechanism showing how the inside ends of the weights will move the plate that the cam assembly locates onto.

    As the weights move outwards, the hook bit on the inside will try to turn that plate anti clockwise. 

    The holes in the cam assy locate over the studs on this plate and then the springs are attached to them, resisting this anti clockwise movement.

    This pic also shows the primary spring (on the right) being far lighter than the secondary.

    IMG_20220103_205742_193.thumb.jpg.01beb58f050b511e28b517d77ad8d155.jpg

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