cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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9 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I did, on the 1200 estate. The trick here is to pregrease the internals off the car, to make sure the cross pin is full of grease. Then fill each cup with grease and as that's fitted, it squeezes the grease down into the cross piece. By the time you're fitting the last cup the grease is coming out of the grease nipple hole. Then just blank that off and you know it's all greased.
An excellent thorough job but what made you decide to fit these instead of ones that are supposed to not need greasing? Just interested in any reasoning lol
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10 hours ago, Chris A said:
Back in the 'old country' but here a measure is usually 4cl or 5cl,
According to an online converter 4cl = 0,281560637822832 Uk gill
From memory, a standard English spirit measure used to be 1/5 of a gill and 1/4 of a gill in Scotland. After metrication it changed to 25ml (2.5cl) whereas a 1/5 of a gill converts to roughly 28.4ml. I don't remember prices reducing to compensate for the reduction in size.
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On 16/06/2023 at 20:12, Chris A said:
Tyres: diameter in inches of course to match wheel diameter but width in mm.
Just to show it works both ways, it is quite common to see fruit on a market stall priced as, for example, 4.99€ per livre. Yes per pound.
I'm going to relax with a measure of Scotch from a metric bottle 🥃
Aren't spirits supposed to be correctly measured as fractions of a gill? Or multiples thereof lol
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Just wondering if there is a reason anyone would fit one that needs greasing as a replacement?
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What's different about the sealed ones that say they don't need greasing. They are generally more expensive so are they just better made? Seems a relatively small extra cost if you really don't need to grease them.
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1 hour ago, cliff.b said:
I think, wether going long distances or closer to home, it depends what sort of work you are likely to undertake if the need arose. If the car did unfortunately have a fairly simple problem that you could fix it would be a shame if you didn't have the parts or tools to do so.
Personally, I always carry dist cap, HT lead, spark plug, rotor arm, points/condenser (to replace electronic ign), fan belt, brake fluid, oil, water, tube of gasket maker, electrical tape, roll of strong reinforced tape (temp hose repair), electrical wire, testing bulb, selection of nuts, bolts, hose clips etc. Oh and a spare fuel pump, but only because I have a spare lying around.
Incidentally, I have never actually needed any of this lol
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I think, wether going long distances or closer to home, it depends what sort of work you are likely to undertake if the need arose. If the car did unfortunately have a fairly simple problem that you could fix it would be a shame if you didn't have the parts or tools to do so.
Personally, I always carry dist cap, HT lead, spark plug, rotor arm, points/condenser (to replace electronic ign), fan belt, brake fluid, oil, water, tube of gasket maker, electrical tape, roll of strong reinforced tape (temp hose repair), electrical wire, testing bulb, selection of nuts, bolts, hose clips etc. Oh and a spare fuel pump, but only because I have a spare lying around.
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If I turn my engine over for about 10 seconds with ignition disconnected the oil pressure light goes off but nothing showing on the gauge at that point.
If you wanted to be certain oil was being pumped then perhaps remove the pressure switch sensor and see if any comes out there when cranking.
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2 minutes ago, johny said:
well thats the way I took it as the circlips Canleys do are 0.0615 and 0.0645 thick so taking a standard one as 60 thou (?) that would make oversizes of 1.5 and 4.5 thou per circlip. You really want to use them in pairs to keep the axis centred so giving 3 and 9 thou...
So as I fitted a 12 thou shim and could have probably fitted a thinner one the other side my yoke is probably well knackered lol
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Ak, ok. So when it says +9 that is for the pair 👍
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As recycling was collected yesterday the only can I had was dissected and found to be aluminum about 12 thou thick. Made a couple of shims using an old UJ cap as a pattern but could only fit one as too thick for two. Now no visible float and if the circlips are forced to turn in their slots with a hammer and punch, the shim moves with it and on the other side without a shim, the UJ cap moves with the circlip So assuming in normal use the UJ cap is now being held tightly and will be stationary.
Driving the car the noise has completely gone at the moment, so proving that was the problem. Will probably fit the thicker circlips at some point but while they are 25p at Canley's the minimum postage is £4.10, so I will either look for them elsewhere or wait until I need something else.
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12 hours ago, DerekS said:
Cliff b, I only needed one shim under each circlip on mine. But bear in mind that's a "float" of 6 thou in total. I have now replaced them with thicker circlips; I found that some of the circlips supplied with new U/Js were not a standard thickness. This can be a right old minefield... a micrometer is an absolute must for comparison.
Derek.
Ps, don't assume that the yokes were accurately machined in the first place.
Been taking a look this morning and there is noticeable end float in the old yoke. Removed the circlips and the UJ caps move easily. Both circlips are about 60 thou thick.
No yokes for the later Spits appear to be available anywhere at the moment so doing to try shimming. Was the can you used aluminium or steel?
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1 hour ago, DerekS said:
That's how I established where the noise was coming from on mine 16 years ago, I mic'd up a Fosters beer tin one night, 3 thou, made a set of shims up and hey presto, no noise. Easy make too!
Derek.
That seems very thin. How many shims did you need to use? I see the oversized circlips are +9 thou.
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9 minutes ago, johny said:
Believe you can also make up spacers from a coke can to take up any end play...
Yes, I suppose that should work 🤔
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20 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:
Are the new UJs tight in their yokes? Over the years, the yokes and particularly their circlip grooves can wear, allowing play even with brand new UJs.
Canley Classics sell thicker circlips to take up this wear.
Nigel
I changed a drive shaft last year and noticed that the new UJ was tight in the shaft yoke but "floppy" in the diff side yoke which I reused. Not surprisingly, there was slight clonking which is now getting worse so needs attention.
I was going to replace the old yoke but are these thicker circlips a reasonable alternative?
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My Spitfire has the 185/70s it came with on the back but I have fitted 175/70s on the front and I am not aware of any issues. I would say playing around with tyre pressures had more impact than the the difference in width.
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On 16/06/2023 at 10:46, Stratton Jimmer said:
There wasn't any problem with clearances but the two struts were too strong and were forcing the bonnet back against the scuttle. It is slightly unbalanced now but certainly no worse than my GT6 which has just its original support.
Mine did this on the passenger side, which led me to discover that the hinge bolts weren't tight enough. Resolved that and all ok now 👍
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Wow you are a pessamist😂
Lol
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Can you switch the pre pressurisation pump on to give extra pressure if it starts dropping off while you are driving 🤔
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1 hour ago, Chris A said:
Simple, the French will drive long distances to get from A to B, for example 500 Kms, so with a car that does 5 per 100kms you easily know you need 25 litres for the trip and can top up before leaving home and won't need to look for a station on route. Rather than work on 20 Kms per litre where you have to divide the 500 by 20 to get the answer.
Or maybe they just do it like this because they do and have always done 🤔
I suppose that might help the mathematically challenged 🙄
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On 10/06/2023 at 18:50, Peter Truman said:
Yep you can only be 10 or100 times out!
still prefer foot and inch’s but don’t use yards anymore!
our fuel consumption is litres per 100klm now that’s confusing the higher the number the worse it is!
Indeed. Why not Km per Litre 🙄
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Just one more thing, based on my own recent experience, is there any smoke when it is misfiring/stuttering? If so, what colour?
I had the same symptoms with white smoke and it was my head gasket blown, cylinder to water gallery. Ran fine at speed but forced coolant into overflow bottle.
UJ greasing
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Are those the ones from the club shop? If so, that is what I fitted to my drive shaft last year.