cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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18 minutes ago, johny said:
Yes but those bearings could still be turning dry on the starter and some might argue thats even worse than firing up and building oil pressure quicker🤔
Hmm, maybe, although I would have thought a film of oil would remain on the bearing surfaces to stop that being an issue. Or am I deluding myself? I suppose someone who has dismantled a bottom end would know, if they noticed.
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Doesn't turning over for 10 seconds without choke before starting achieve the same thing 🤔
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23 hours ago, Richeee said:
Fitted the same kit this afternoon. With the front plates bolted to the hinge by the front 1/4 valence. And fuuny enough also had to reverse the drivers side so inside the wheel arch not outside as it caught the intake pipes. Will see as times goes on if it gets too much muck etc there.
Certainly makes bonnet operation a lot better.
I only fitted it to the "wrong" side at the hinge end which gave a bit more clearance but still had to move the air intake pipes a bit. Apart from that they work well.
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11 hours ago, GrahamB said:
What you need are Waxstat jets for SUs !!😄
I have got waxstat jets, but, without any wax in them. Replaced with pennies lol
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1 hour ago, Chris A said:
But - When did I set the mixture? If I set it when the air temperature was low it would mean the mixture was wrong when running the car in summer. Or as you say maybe not. I clearly don't have enough to do 😀
Indeed. I set mine last summer when temp was about 30C and later in the Autumn when it was about 10C I checked again and it was running very weak.
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8 hours ago, Keith Nock said:
Hi Peter
A bit drastic but a solution . I have adjusted the bonnet cone for now and will see if that works . if not then I will get the Dremel to the catches. I probably will not know for a few weeks as it happened to and from Cadwell Park on Lincolnshire's back roads which looked to have been repaired by a chimp with a shovel and i was travelling at a brisk pace
Adjusting the cones did the trick on my Spitfire.
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1 hour ago, Chris A said:
Well, I have put my 'performance improvement' to the test today as I went to a small local event and i can say without fear of contridiction - it didn't make the car run worse. Can't say I noticed any improvement either but considering the heat under the bonnet after the run out it ought to have sucked in much cooler air.
I actually saw a real 'Unicorn' for the first time, actually a 1948 Licorne and very nice it was as well
Might be interesting to see if it has had any effect on your mixture. In theory it could make it run weaker if the air is denser. If so, and you richened it again then maybe that could have a noticeable effect🤔
Or maybe not lol
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19 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
There seem to be different bonnet gas struts available.
Some of these have the lower bracket fixed near the bonnet hinge box and some are attached to the radiator frame.
Can anyone advise if there are any apparent advantages, one type over others, please?
I recently fitted the ones that are fitted by the hinge box.
They work well, are simple to fit and I found just one strut will hold the bonnet open. I did find though that the drivers side strut fouled the air inlet pipes which I got over by attaching that strut on the opposite side of the bracket and re-routing the pipes behind the radiator stay.
I also found out my bonnet hinge on the passenger side wasn't bolted down as tight as it should have been. When the bonnet is closed the strut is under constant tension and in my case, moved the bonnet rearwards on that side, fouling the door.
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45 minutes ago, johny said:
Wonder if the smaller pump pulley also means less belt contact area plus higher pump turning torque required?
That was my assumption when looking at mine.
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21 minutes ago, KevinR said:
If it starts in FM, its a genuine Spitfire 1500 engine.
It it starts in YC, its a Dolomite 1500 engine that has been fitted to your Spitfire.
Any other prefix and its going to be a 1300 engine (or smaller)
My engine starts DM and ends ESS which I believe was a factory supplied 1500 replacement engine at some point.
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My 1500 has the water pump with the smaller pulley and when I bought it, also had an older, heavier, 4 blade metal fan. I had the same problem with belt squealing when revving engine but got around it by fitting a lighter 7 blade plastic one. Less inertia, I presume.
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54 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
well it didint come out the dunstable factory like that looks a nice job and a lot quicker than in its previous life
Pete
I suspect you are right about that lol
Hopefully the suspension and brakes may have been tweaked a little as well.
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What size fan belt is fitted?
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4 minutes ago, Anglefire said:
I used the flanged nuts when I rebuilt my engine - like them a lot - designed for the Metro MG Turbo I believe - or at least they used them! Got mine from Minispares from memory Classic Mini CAM4545 - Mini Spares Onlne Shop - I appreciate the link is of no use to you Cliff, but someone may be hunting for some later!
Yes, likewise. And also, for the benefit of anyone else fitting them, the heads are 14mm AF, not 9/16".
Don't ask me how I found that out lol.
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12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
it indicates the head was "loose" lack of clamping lets compressions escape all over the place past the fire rings which should be clean and shiny
all down to soft washers
Pete
Thanks Pete. I was wondering if that was the case but no experience to fall back on. Hopefully the new flanged nuts will stop it happening again 🤞
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About 40 mike's now & all seems well.
Here is a pic of the old gasket. One water gallery hole is misshapen towards the fire ring on the affected cylinder so presume that's where it failed.
Is the blackening around the fire rings usual or does that indicate some leakage?
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A slightly modified Commer pick up
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As my head gasket seems to be ok I decided to attend the regular monthly classic car meet this morning.
A lot of cars there with a great variety of types and ages.
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Exhaust re-connected and run up to temperature ok. Then out for a gentle test drive. About 5 miles and no problems so far 🤞
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9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
if the gauge looses its best reading its the non return valve of the gauge thats leaking, they are often just a tyre valve in the gauge head
they are not that special
Pete
It is only a cheap one. Will have a look at it some time and see if anything can be done.
But need to get my exhaust fitted first and then might be able to make a car meet on Sunday morning 👍
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Thinking I probably wiped any oil that was on the bores off when I was cleaning stuff. Squirted little through each plughole and now getting in the region of 175psi. Decided to try starting it although exhaust not connected yet.
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2 hours ago, dannyb said:
It should be done cold. The gauge should hold whatever reading the compression registers. Is the gauge faulty/Leaking.
Danny
Yes, I have sat down and had a think and realise the gauge should hold whatever pressure is achieved, so my fears of compression leakage are probably a fault with the gauge.
Regarding the lower reading, I first thought that if the gauge has developed a fault then that might explain the lower reading. Last time I did a test it was done warm and all 4 cylinders gave a reading of almost exactly 150. Now, after fitting the new gasket and tested cold they gave readings between about 135 and 145.
My main concern though was the pressure falling away which I now presume I can ignore?
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Hmm, I have a nasty feeling I must have screwed things up in some way. Everything back together but decided to do a compression test before trying to start up and not only are the figures low, the pressure fades away slowly after I stop cranking. Just wondering if there is any possibility that this is because I am doing it when cold, but suspect I am grasping at straws 😒 Every cylinder is about the same.
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4 minutes ago, chrishawley said:
Just happened ot be reading a 1959 edition of Practical Motorist in the bath (I really need to get up to date with my periodicals). Anyhow, standard recommendation was to torque head on assembly and then hot at 500 miles.
Thanks for that. Sounds sensible.
Pre Start Engine Pressure Oiler
in Engine
Posted
I can agree with that lol