Nick Whitehead

After a lengthy (25 year) lay up, the speedo in my 2l Vitesse is not working properly. As I approach 50-60 it eventually wakes up and creeps towards the correct speed (compared to GPS on my phone). But at lower speeds sticks on zero or creeps towards 20-30. Any ideas? Is the disk rusty? Are the magnets weakened? I think the cable to the gearbox is ok and engaged properly because the odometer is reading accurately. Is it easy to service myself if I take it apart, or is it best to try and get a new/exchange meter. Thanks for your advice.

I love my Vitesse and it’s 6 cylinder engine. But I can see in the future - 15 or 20 years from now - it will become harder to pop out to my local BP and buy E10 fuel. And it will be expensive. And people will become increasingly unsympathetic to my smelly old petrol unit. Knowing that an EV conversion looks relatively simple - keeping the same gearbox, etc - as a DIY project and will over time become much cheaper (standard conversion for all Herald, Vitesse, GT6, Spitfire) gives me hope, to be honest. I’ll be in my 80’s, so likely my children or their children will be the beneficiaries. But still....

In the video, the guy said the weight was being kept to the original kerbside weight

Not home made Colin. However, where they came from is lost in the midst of time. Thanks for the advice. How can I tell what type I have? I guess Type 16 since on a Vitesse Mk 2 1969?

Hi Pete, Unfortunately the shims you sent are not compatible. The holes don't line up and they are too small. See picture comparing yours with springs and the ones I have fitted. THANKS so much for taking the trouble to send them to me to try. Much appreciated. Nick

Ahhhhh. starter motor just failed... I guess I'm taking another car to Somerset... Unless anyone has a spare to sell me near Bracknell!

Hi Pete, Can I put my hand up for these? Just confirming they are suitable for Vitesse Mk 2 2 Litre 1969. How much would you like for them?

Squeak resolved with lubricant. Thanks everyone for the advice. I have a 200 mile round trip to Somerset planned for the weekend and that squeak all the way would have driven me MAD!

Kit Kat, definitely

Thanks Pete. I’ve cleaned all components and applied lubricant. The squeak is solved! in the mean time I’ll source some shims with springs that you suggested and the next time I have to service the brakes I’ll buy pads without the goo on the back!

I've got the pads off. They are coated on the back with something, some of which has come off and is now stuck to the anti-squeal shims. Is that normal?

Thanks Pete, I'll check the bearing when I re-install the pads. The wheel spun freely by hand when I jacked the car up. But the fact that the squeak stops instantly when I touch the brakes suggested to me that it's not the bearing. Am I wrong?

Thanks Pete and Johny. When I say the pads are recently replaced, I mean in the last 500 miles or so. So they are well bedded in. Pads and callipers are standard supplied by Rimmer’s; I don’t recall the make. I’ll reinstall with some Ceratec though and see if that works. Before that I’m going out for a road test with my son armed with a long tube to act as a stethoscope to see if I can verify which wheel…

Hi, advice please. What’s my next move? I have a squeak on one of my wheels on a Vitesse convertible. While driving, the squeak is obvious and persistent but occasionally stops. Even with the roof down I can’t be sure which wheel. It happens at all speeds, frequency is speed related, but stops immediately if I touch the brakes. But not if I apply hand break (suggesting front wheel?). I’ve jacked up each wheel in turn and tried to recreate the squeak by turning the wheel by hand (front) and using the engine (rear). No squeak, and no play in the bearings. All brake callipers, pistons and pads have been replaced recently. Any ideas? What shall I try next to diagnose my problem? Nick

Thanks everyone. I have now fitter relays, following Clive and Pete Lewis' advice. I still would like more brightness, so intent to replace the sealed beam units with halogens. Please can you advise me what I need. I'm assuming H4s for the outer lights and H1s for the inner? Typically, do they fit within the original bowls used by the sealed beam units?

Hi. Advice needed. Is a halogen headlamp conversion recommended for a Vitesse fitted with a dynamo. Or is it advisable to fit an alternator first? Thanks

Hi. Advice needed. Is a halogen headlamp conversion recommended for a Vitesse fitted with a dynamo. Or is it advisable to fit an alternator first? Thanks

Thanks all for your input. I am inspired to 'make-do-and-mend' based on your experiences. Horn that is 'broken' is only broken because the spade connector has fallen off. So I'm going to see if I can take it apart and bolt the connector back on... When I've got them both working, I'll start on why pushing the horn button does not provide the route to earth to make them sound... Onwards and upwards.. Nick

Help! Working to get the horns working on a Vitesse 2l Mk 2. Steering wheel press does not work, so I've tested them individually by connecting to a battery. One works and the other does not. Is there a way of knowing whether the high or low tone is the one that needs replacing so I can order a new one? I can't see any markings on the horn itself, and I can't tell just by listening to the one that works. In case it matters, the one on the left/kerb side of the bonnet (which also has the +ve feed coming from the fuse) is the one that's not working. Thanks, Nick

Hi, On my Vitesse 2L MK2, the throttle return spring is attached from the lever on the carb (150 CD's) via a bit of wire with a loop in the end to a hook which is hooked onto the chassis. There does not seem to be a proper anchor point? The spring passes very close to the solenoid delivering power to the starter motor with exposed terminals threatening to short out. What's the correct way to anchor it? Like this (seems odd)? Or some other way. Thanks for your advise and guidance. Nick

So. Issue resolved. I think the new replaced bushes for the rear of the gearbox were not seated properly in their groves on the chassis cross member. Meaning the gear box and the prop shaft were not in complete alignment as they were before replacement. Thanks again everyone for suggestions. Nick

Update. Gearbox has oil in it! Have jacked up the car and tested it in all four gears + reverse. Got under the car this time to do a visual inspection while the prop was turning. Noise is coming from the prop shaft. I can't see that its fouling the body anywhere, so I'm suspecting UJ.s I will ensure they are fully greased up, but is there anything else I should be looking at? When I had the gearbox out to change the clutch I managed to loose my marks to match up the flange on the gearbox to the flange on the prop in the same place it had come off. So it went back randomly. But had been running fine for 30 miles or so. Prop seemed balanced. When I replaced the gearbox mounting bushes, the prop went back in the same place as it had been before. Still, could I have an un-balanced prop shaft? Would that make a lot of noise? How can I balance the prop shaft? is that a job for the garage? or DIY? Thanks again for all your advice Nick

EP90. That's right? Nick

I will do a proper test and report back on these points. Thanks Nick

Prop UJ. That’s a thought! When I let the gearbox down after changing the bushes it fouled the disconnected prop shaft UJ. Perhaps I’ve damaged it? Next thing to check. After the oil….. nick