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Thank you all so much. I’d spotted the short engines on e-bay so that could be an option best wishes jeremy

Hi All, having had my Mk3 GT6 set up properly and it running really well, exploring a new fault has identified a crank float end beyond all tolerances and me not knowing having driven the car around. I’ve been in touch with the garage I use who I absolutely trust and the bottom line that dependant on inspection of the engine it is going to need a partial to significant rebuild. looking at hit through the head as opposed to heart lens , in a quandary as to whether to invest in the car which I would like to do or take the hit, put it down to experience and sell the car with the known engine fault and allow others to decide if they wish to take it on for a rebuild. The car is complete and i have been doing it up over the last six months. Body work very good other than one small dent, chassis excellent. Body could do with a respray. maths are : owes me circa £11 k say allow £5K for engine rebuild Quandary is , accepting it is an older car , there will always be things to do and with a limited pot of funds do I cut my losses? What’s peoples thoughts on values on a GT6 over all good (not concourse) condition with no running engine ? Would I be lucky to get £3 k or £5k or more of up for auction on normal e- auction sites ? just trying to work out if my desire to keep rational or do if I should accept I don’t have the ready funds to keep going many thanks jeremy

Morning All, at last I am able to post something trivial and light hearted having sorted out loads of other stuff 😊 have a black and silver oval GB sticker that I would like to put on the rear of my GT6 Mk 3 . General ask is where have others plonked it and any pics showing location would be greatly appreciated. Realise this really is numpty question but no point cocking up the looks of the rear with an ill considered sticker 😉. Thanks All

Hi All, whilst investigating a sudden and temporary stalling of my car (GT6 mk III) at the weekend (on another section of the forum), I have been checking engine numbers etc and discovered that a previous owner has put what I think is a 2.5 Saloon Head on the block as has number 219016 & 313248 on it. It goes like a rocket now all set up properly, but wondered why someone would do this. All I know about the history is that the car was re-built by someone that wanted to do classic race / track events in it and the engine has supposedly been re-built with this in mind. I've been reading up on 2.5 heads on 2.0 L blocks and think I understand that low compression is a risk if the head is not skimmed enough. Just after any info really, what is needed to be done to the engine etc to make the 2.5 head work so as I have reference for the future. Also just checking that there is not anything i this that would contribute my engine stall at idle after a 40 min spirited drive. Many Thanks Jeremy

Many thanks all. engine was not overly hot , temp gauge sitting at 2/3rds. something I did notice before idle stall was that red light (alternator / voltage ) did come on when at idle in traffic . Would this suggest a dodgy alternator and if so , (please excuse my ignorance) but would this contribute to a lowering of revs abs cut out. I’ll investigate the battery as well, it seems to charge ok on the CTec charger but have not checked if it is drained after a run . many thanks jeremy

Dear All, Been a while since on the forum as I've had the GT6 running fine and have just been enjoying the summer ! Today though, car was taken for a spirited 45 min drive and when I pulled back onto the drive way , car gradually reduced revs from 800 ish down to 500 ish and then stalled. Tried an immediate re-start and starter motor sounded like not enough electrical juice as a very slow turn over , so stopped and waited for 1 min and then tried again. Car fired up and idled perfectly as if nothing had happened ? Apologies as this may well be an electrical fault and I have posted on the fuel system page, but my initially thinking that it is not electrical engine heat issues as the car re-started and ran fine after 1 min, so not enough time for engine to cool down ? I'm thinking vapor lock type issue ? Car is running SU HS6 carbs and standard mechanical fuel pump and have carb shields. Could I ask if anyone else as experienced or heard of this type of problem and if a vapor lock is a suspect how have people insulated their fuel lines ? Especially the metal T Section that branches to allow the second carb to be fueled ? Many Thanks in advance Jeremy

Thanks All, before I commence the rule of 13 method, excuse the daft question but how tight should the gap be with the feeler gauge inserted ? I’ve always done it so that you tighten and move the feeler gauge until you feel slight resistance or tension. I’m just wondering if people’s experiences on the GT6 is that it should be tightened and the feeler gauge is a lot harder to remove with a lot of resistance but stopping short of clamping it dead ! Many thanks . Jeremy

Cheers Pete, I’ll give it a go. All good practice 😊

Ok, thanks All. I have no idea if standard cam or not as I can’t contact the previous owner who had the engine re-built. No idea how I would tell either other than looking at the car itself. I used the Haynes manual sequencing for the valves which states when 2 are fully open (down) adjust the following two. would you recommend a further crack at it using the rule of 13 and doing each valve individually ? many thanks jeremy

Hi All, quick question - does a lowering block sit between the bottom leaf and second leaf of the spring or does it sit on the diff with the spring on top of it ? many thanks jeremy

Hi All, have adjusted all valve clearances to the recommended 0.25mm and now the tappers are noisy at idle, could not really hear before. Had several valves that had a slightly too large gap ( 0.35mm on a couple) and one that was less than the 0.25mm and could not insert the feeler gauge. So it did need it and it ticks away like a sewing machine but just wondering if this is ok ? I’ve always been told slacker valve clearance is better than too tight . It’s a rebuilt engine so no idea what happened on the irregular clearance thicknesses ? if an aftermarket set of rockers , are there any other gap / clearance figures I should be using which is why I have the tapping many thanks jeremy

Hi All, could I ask what radio make and model was originally fitted by Truimph to a 1972 GT6 . Am I right in thinking it would have been a Motorola 144 ? could I also ask if speaker location was limited to door cards. looking to install the correct vintage radio . many thanks jeremy

HI All, Slowly working my way through the interior restoration and I am after a central arm rest if anyone has one ? If in black brilliant, if not still good as would look to recover. Many Thanks in advance Jeremy

Ok, thought I’d close this off for anyone that reads it in the future for guidance. fitted new spring and two new shocks and replaced all bushes. Wheel wobble issue has now gone and the passenger side rear shock was completely seized ! Could not even move it up and down by hand. the spring appeared to be very soft and leaves 5 & 4 could be easily squeezed by hand at the drivers side end. New spring ( correct part is a lot more stiff) so went for a spin and all good when settled down and tightened up. My only slight nag now is the camber of the rear wheels as they look a little positive camber. I have looked at some images of other GT6s straight on from the rear and can does appear to be the same . final thanks to all that spares time to reply and put up with my numpty questions 😉

Hi , have a newtronic electric ignition on the 6 that was installed by the previous owner. The current set up is a non ballast resistor coil. The coil is getting pretty hot , which as I understand it is the oil heating as it reduces the incoming supply. I can see the yellow / pink wires that should go to a ballast resistor but I am unsure that if I add a resistor back in am in just fiddling and likely to fry something ? Pics of electronic ignition box and current coil below. Many thanks . Jeremy

Hi All, after all the previous posts I’m going to start changing all the rear bushes, removing and inspecting the spring and new rear shocks tomorrow. Couple of quick questions If I may : 1. how do you know which is the front of the spring if it is not marked as such ? The Haynes manual states correct fitting required with front face etc 2. when tightening up all new rear suspension parts ( have new bushes and bolts ) which ones should I leave a little loose to allow settling on the ground and then tightening under load ? Is it just spring eye to top of vertical link or all of them ? many thanks in advance jeremy

Hi Ian, confusing , but enjoyable in the sense of learning about the cars. Impatience on my part as really want to start enjoying my rolling restoration so I am inclined to renew / rebuild the rear suspension including spring so as I have piece of mind for a few years. Logistics is my biggest challenge as have a garage that is wider than a single but not a double and have worked out that if I park the car as close to one side allowing access I have around 1.3 m the other and I am not sure if this would be enough to extract the spring ? I’m guessing that you can pull down and twist slightly on it ? Have changed old series Land Rover springs before so known the approximate weight. Alternatively I will need to take up the whole garage with no access until complete as I can use the single side door as the extra width to remove the spring . First world headache I know !! Thanks

Dear All, last post I promise !! I’m getting confused as to what spring part number I am after as some suppliers quote a spring as being Spitfire Mk4 and GT6 mk3 i know I need a 5 leaf spring but could someone offer up the exact part number at all rimmer state is as 159640 I’ve found a Sanderson leaf spring which is this part number. Sanderson have a good reputation with old Land Rover springs. Pic attached . This is quoting the same part number. thanks jeremy

Dear All, thanks once again for the input. In order to try and avoid you all getting fed up with me , I have decided to tackle this in stages based on budget and avoiding abortive costs etc. 1. I'm going to start with new shocks and bushes. Something (maybe very optimistically) is making me think it may be the shock getting stuck and then releasing or not working properly. The wheel wobble feeling is intermittent and does kind of make sense it could be the spring being released and pinging when driving on the straight. The other rear quarter also feels a lot firmer in that I can't depress it as easily and is certainly not bottoming out or potentially the spring eye making contact with the back of the brake hose. 2. If phase one is wishful thinking I am then going to take out and replace all bushes and put in new polybushes and bolts / nuts. I would plan to do this anyway as have always done it on previous classic cars owned. 3. if all else fails obtain new 5 leaf spring. There is currently a wait on arrival or pay uber prices. so I can crack on with phase 1 & 2 in the interim. 4. Sort the brushing of the braided brake hose against the shock. make up the s section of brake pipe and brackets. Needs sorting as plan on running the car by the MOt station when all finished. 5. One day consider the CV shaft conversion. Found it, looks nice, but lots of other things to sort first. Many Thanks and will let you know how i get on (Hopefully with a Eureka moment on point of discovery of issue) Jeremy

Hi Ian, can I ask what / where the cv converted rotaflex set up is . Is it a full conversion kit ? Can you provide a link as definitely interested in this if I can afford as would like to do it once abs correct . Thanks

Evening , the first thing I would like to say is that I really , really appreciate all the guidance and advice. Thank you for your patience , I’d be stuffed without the support. ok, so investigating this evening , I have found out: i. It’s a four stud / bolt spring ii. The car still retains the top shock mount in the wheel arch so definitely a conversion ? iii. The drive shaft length is approx 31 cm from base of cup at wheel end to base of cup at diff end. iv. I bounced it the car on the rear quarter and it makes an intermittent metal tapping / knocking sound. I’ve attached a small video clip. v rear driver side height from floor to bottom of sill rail is 17 cm on drivers side and then 19 cm on passenger side. vi could not see any fractures or cracks in the spring . Noise definitely from drivers side. a few pics below , all pointers and thoughts very welcome. I’m not sure if it would be the spring as the knocking is not consistent with every push down on the car , but maybe that is my wishful thinking. The car seems to settle and is quiet and then after half a dozen pushdown and raises then knocks for the next 3 - 4 ? many thanks jeremy IMG_6886.MOV

Hi Doug, a full replacement chassis is my current theory as I know the previous owner bought it from someone that had carried out a full rebuild. I can’t see any welding . Many thanks . Jeremy

Hi All, thank you for all the guidance . In my newness to the GT6 I may have confused myself and all of you or the previous owner has made a fundamental change. My car is 1972 but not rotaflex. I attach a pic of the underside of the rear suspension and I have not got the doughnut on the drive shaft. All thoughts gratefully received as to what i have installed

Hi All, as per my previous post on tyre pressures and wheel wobble sensation I have been investigating and all so reading the previous post on sagging springs with great interest. I’ve poked around under the rear suspension and the first thing I have noticed is that the rear drivers corner is sagging - I realised this when I could get a jack under the passenger side just in front of rear wheel but drivers side I could not. It is the drivers side that the wobble feeling comes from. before I go hunting for a new spring ( notes that springs are scarce at the moment so may well have to wait) is a sagging spring the likeliest cause ? I can see newish bolts and studs on the spring to diff mount , so it has been replaced recently . I’d thought the whole rear suspension had been rebuilt but looking closely it is a mix of new bushes and old ones . Not sure why. anyway , I thought maybe to start with a full bush fitting kit and new shocks and then if no joy with the wheel wobble then go for a new spring replacement. is there a best place to get a full rear suspension bush replacement kit that comes with everything you need ? can I ask how easy it is to remove the bush from the spring eye and replace, as from owning old land rovers I know it can be a pain or am I kidding myself and should just gear up for a full rear rebuild including new spring and embrace the future learning and experience opportunity ! many thanks jeremy

Tyres are Yokohama bluearth es32