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Stratton Jimmer

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  • Location
    Stratton St Margaret
  • Cars Owned
    RPK67F - Mk1 GT6 (1977-1980)
    HHA717D - Mk1 Vitesse 2L (1975-1977)
    SVO123R - Sixpot Spitfire 1500 (2021-)

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  1. Thanks Pete. I'm sure that is very sound advice and I have never had any issues with Strombergs in the past so would be very happy to have another pair. Mind you the ones I did have were not the CDS versions. So is there anyone out there who would like to swap a pair of HS6s for a pair of CDS 150s?
  2. Get yourself one of these! Last January I only had a Triumph 955i Sprint ST bike but now have this pair to occupy my time and empty my wallet.
  3. Having had plenty of time to think about it, I have decided to get shot of the HS6 carbs and replace them with either a pair of CD150 Strombergs or if these prove to be difficult to get, a pair of HS4 SUs. The GT6 that I now have has HS4s and runs pretty well on them. The HS6s are physically too big for a steel bonnet to fit without hacking away the inner wing in the same way that the current glass fibre bonnet has been 'modified'. Perhaps there's someone out there who would like to do a swap? Of course, I would also need to source an airbox if I get Strombergs!
  4. 14mm socket and 5" extension does the job. There's just enough play in the system to avoid having to take off the dizzy cap.
  5. Good to hear of the CDD shafts in use. I think I will go for a spring lifter as I have taken a good look and access to the diff casing is not easy as Rob suggests. Sound advice about the shimming which I will adhere thank you.
  6. Thanks Nigel. I can see that that would work and would allow both sides to be done with one operation but is the job easier with the lifter?
  7. Having spoken to a few people and read extensively about it, I have decided to do away with the rotoflex on the six and fit CDD CV shafts. Just wondering if anyone in the Swindon area has a rear spring lifter that I might borrow when I come to do the job in early October? If anyone is interested, I will photograph the whole job from start to finish and publish it here. Let me know or I will keep quiet!
  8. In a fit of madness I decided to buy Don Davies GT6 as featured in the sales column of the latest Courier. It is a bit of a strange one as the owner prior to Don had taken it off the road to use as a racing car. Anyway, the odd thing is that it appears to have two chassis numbers (Commission Numbers) as shown below. The KE0829 seems right for a 1971 GT6 Mk3 (CWD 760J) but the one on the plate doesn't. KE35290 is listed on the registration document but I haven't a clue what that is. Can anyone offer any explanation as to how I get two numbers? The paint code is also one that shouldn't be appropriate for a 71 GT6 (Delft Blue).
  9. I use a syringe and short length of 6mm tube but essentially follow the same method as DanMi.
  10. I would agree with what Johny says but before you attempt to unscrew and remove the stud, apply plenty of heat to the joint with a blow lamp or welding torch. The last one of these that I did, (Mk1 GT6 circa 1978) I was able to use mole grips to turn the stud and it came out intact. Before replacing it with a new stud, I used a smaller diameter bolt (not a set screw) to hold the exhaust in place together with the two remaining good studs.
  11. In the past I have removed and refitted the gearbox in a Vitesse 2L Mk1 from within but that had no OD. I did swap out an overdrive box and OD from a Mk2 GT6 which was at the time parked on the edge of the parade square at RAF Uxbridge in 1982. I don't recall any major problems in removing it from inside the cab.
  12. I concur with Chris that a 100ml syringe is ideal for the job. It produces a much greater degree of vacuum than the human gob can achieve.
  13. Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will test the system as outlined by Adrian and if it is found to have failed due to a leak will follow Pete's advice and give Speedy Cables a go. You lot are worth a hundred Haynes manuals!
  14. Having had a closer look with my specs on, it does seem to be a bourdon tube (I thought they went out with the Arc). It's possible that the tube has been damaged although a close inspection doesn't show any visible sign of damage. Supposing (and I have no reason to doubt you) that your summation is correct, any ideas how to go about proving it and I wonder then what the fix would be? If the pipe is sealed to both the sender and the gauge, is it then necessary to replace the whole system?
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