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Stratton Jimmer

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Everything posted by Stratton Jimmer

  1. I have done this job on both a Mk1 GT6 and a Vitesse 2L and I did both with the cars sat on my father's driveway. Tunnel cover off, one seat out for ease of access then remove the gearbox which in each case did need a block and jack at the back of the engine. All done in an afternoon with the help of an unskilled assistant.
  2. I have the same manual - part number 512947 - and that is the only reference to the dimension of the nut. Group 4 shows it on a diagram but simply refers to it as "steering wheel nut" with no further detail given.
  3. I did this job only two weeks ago on the GT6 and once I had discovered that the Haynes book tells fibs about the Mk3 OD gear lever, found the whole job to be very straightforward. Pete's sage advice about the circlip groove is a must do! If in doubt, take a photo of each stage in the dismantling and then simply reverse the procedure - simples!
  4. That's a better scientific answer Rob. I was trying to keep it simple.
  5. I'm in Swindon (well just outside it) with a GT6 Mk3 and a Spitfire 1500 with a six pot lump if it helps.
  6. The TR7 was orange - or at least that was how it looked on my telly. I thought the bits about refurbishing the Strombergs was reasonably good. I still prefer Edd China to Ant Anstead. Edd's tools didn't seem to have built in sound effects the way Ant's do!
  7. When a starter motor commences to spin, it takes a huge amount of current as it is effectively a short circuit - copper windings with very low resistance. As it speeds up, a back electromotive force (back emf) is generated which resists the flow of current else the motor would accelerate indefinitely. At some point, the back emf is sufficient to allow current from the battery (and generator) to flow elsewhere and power up the ignition circuit. If all is in order, this happens very quickly but if there's a problem anywhere e.g. a poorly charged battery or a sluggish starter motor then there will be less charge available for the ignition system. What may happen with sluggishly turning starter motors is that they may hesitate with their commutator in such a postion that momentarily, the short circuit they are creating is switched off. This is sometimes sufficient time for the ignition system to generate a spark and start the four stroke cycle. That will also initially accelerate the starter motor before the starter dog drops out and enhance the back emf and thus current available for the ignition circuit.
  8. It's worth mentioning that if your battery is struggling, any attempt to use the starter motor will sap its charge very quickly. Electricity likes to use the path of least resistance and hence you may not get the necesssary 12 volts at the ignition system. This is a common fault with Japanese motorcycles - starter motor runs well enough but no ignition.
  9. Regarding the Matthew versus Mathew saga, I used to work with a guy name Matthew Black. His parents obviously had a sense of humour.
  10. I can't help with a Vitesse but when measuring very accurate distances in flight simulators for setting up visuals etc, we always used a laser measure. A couple of plumb lines with suitable 'targets' on them should enable you to measure the chassis accurately and relatively easily.
  11. I have refitted the plastic dished washer. It's all back on the gearbox now.
  12. P.S. My photograph shows the old plastic dished washer and the new metal one next to each other near the 27 cm mark on the workmate.
  13. Circlip is fine. Double and triple checked for fit. The Canley kit doesn't include a new plastic dished washer but does include a metal domed washer that fits exactly atop the outer spring. If I use this in place of the plastic washer is there an issue? An earlier thread also refers to and includes a photograph of the Canley kit.
  14. I think I had worked it out. Thanks Pete, I have fitted the inner spring and clearly it is the circlip that counts. Haynes diagram is wrong as it indicates the circlip to be a 'washer' which would serve no purpose at all.
  15. The GT6 Mk3 OD was clearly suffering with the gear lever springs being out of place. The lever just lay in the dropped position all of the time making it tricky to find 1st and 2nd. Ordered a kit from Canley and started on the job this morning. Here's my snag - the lever appears to be a hybrid between those of the 'early model' (Haynes Manual p.121, Fig 6.6) and the OD variety shown on p.122 (Fig 6.7). There's a circlip slot on the shaft as shown in the photo. The circlip was loose on the shaft and both springs protruded above the dished washers. Has anyone else got one of these mongrel gear levers? Haynes shows the Mk3 OD with no circlip. Should I fit it or not?
  16. I was out and about in the Spit on Wednesday (6th October 2021) and around midday was heading towards Swindon from Hungerford when a very smart looking car passed me in the opposite direction. With a closing speed of around 120 mph, I waved to the driver who similarly waved to me. We both had our hoods down. Anyway, I think the car was a TR3 but couldn't be sure. Just wondering if anyone was the other driver? Cruising at a steady 60 mp, a few miles later I caught up with a Post Office van doing about 55. I moved out to pass it and realised that it was being held up by a MGB which looked to be in fully restored condition. Not wishing to stay in the wrong lane for too long, I flicked the OD out and stormed past the Abingdon tub once more exchanging friendly waves with the driver as he disappeared from my rear view mirror. What fun!!!
  17. I could hear those USAF lumps here in Upper Stratton. They are supposed to be stealthy but you wouldn't need a radar to know when one is coming! By the way, how is the Vit these days? I used to have one many moons ago. If ever you need a hand with anything, I'd be happy to help. Will be going to the North Wilts group meeting next Tuesday should you be around.
  18. I have one of these and it is excellent. As an ex-RAF Electronics Technician I have soldered and crimped many connectors over the years and can vouch for these ALDI tools.
  19. Thanks Pete. I'm sure that is very sound advice and I have never had any issues with Strombergs in the past so would be very happy to have another pair. Mind you the ones I did have were not the CDS versions. So is there anyone out there who would like to swap a pair of HS6s for a pair of CDS 150s?
  20. Get yourself one of these! Last January I only had a Triumph 955i Sprint ST bike but now have this pair to occupy my time and empty my wallet.
  21. Having had plenty of time to think about it, I have decided to get shot of the HS6 carbs and replace them with either a pair of CD150 Strombergs or if these prove to be difficult to get, a pair of HS4 SUs. The GT6 that I now have has HS4s and runs pretty well on them. The HS6s are physically too big for a steel bonnet to fit without hacking away the inner wing in the same way that the current glass fibre bonnet has been 'modified'. Perhaps there's someone out there who would like to do a swap? Of course, I would also need to source an airbox if I get Strombergs!
  22. 14mm socket and 5" extension does the job. There's just enough play in the system to avoid having to take off the dizzy cap.
  23. Good to hear of the CDD shafts in use. I think I will go for a spring lifter as I have taken a good look and access to the diff casing is not easy as Rob suggests. Sound advice about the shimming which I will adhere thank you.
  24. Thanks Nigel. I can see that that would work and would allow both sides to be done with one operation but is the job easier with the lifter?
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