Stratton Jimmer
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Posts posted by Stratton Jimmer
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Another vote for Paddock's and also for Canley Classics who I have found to be very helpful.
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The PO of my GT6 created his own "inspection" hole. A large, roughly hewn chunk of the cover was absent. I was given a new fibreglass cover with the car so no real complaint but I then found a suitable piece of plastic (from a 15 litre fence paint pot), tidied up the hole and covered it with the tougher plastic which is bolted into place using tiny BA bolts. It was supposed to be a temporary fix until I fitted the new cover but it has proven to be so effective that it is still in place. This car currently has no dash support / radio bracket fitted although I do have one.
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Some of our diesel locomotives at the railway, with high pressure air systems, have "spitter" valves which automatically exhaust any fluid from the air tanks.
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I have the six jacked up with the wheels off so here are two photos showing the hangers at each end of the tail pipe silencer. Top picture is driver's side. This looks very like that shown in a previous post for a Spitfire 1500 exhaust.
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Always dry!
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Can't get underneath to confirm fixing points at the moment but this is my tail pipe:
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Call me old fashioned but I prefer the original style of exhaust. My sixfire has the twins and if and when they need changing, I will be going back to the original Mk3 GT6 style.
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My Sixfire (1500) has a 14 inch Motolita and it is absolutely fine.
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23 hours ago, johny said:
As an aside, do you still have the overflow pipe and bottle on your cars?
I do have them. They seem to be effectively redundant though.
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I use Evans waterless in both cars (Sixfire and GT6) and they both run at a normal temperature. As previously suggested, it may be either your gauge reading wrong or a bad thermostat causing your issue.
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You have too big a heat sink. If you do need to remove those soldered joints, you need to get the whole pack warmed up or you need a small gas torch which can put enough heat in very quickly without it being conducted away.
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Can anyone recommend a good upholstery business that would be able to refurbish a pair of Spitfire Mk4 seats? Preferably in the Swindon, Wiltshire vicinity... Asking for a friend!
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Anyone is welcome to join us for the following April events:
Tuesday April 9th: Our usual get together at The Foxham Inn, Foxham, Chippenham SN15 4NQ
Saturday April 13th: Drive to and visit the Attwell Wilson Motor Museum, Stockley Lane, Calne, Wiltshire SN11 0NF. The museum has a coffee shop but doesn't do food. Aim to arrive circa 11:00 which is their opening time.
Sunday April 21st: Drive It Day at the Crofton Beam Engines. See https://www.croftonbeamengines.org/events/ for details
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I have Evans Classic Cool 180 in both cars on the basis that these are old engines and the last thing I need is corrosion from within the water jacket. The Sixfire has silicone hoses while the GT6 has standard hoses and both seem to be fine. If needs be, I drain the system, filter the coolant and re-use it topping up with a few egg cups of new stuff.
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I have an unused Mk3 front roof panel and edge strip. They are made of unobtanium and in consequence it isn't a cheap option. Message me if you want details please.
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On 01/03/2024 at 09:08, PeteH said:
Ethanol, in Classics,
I had read that article thanks Pete.
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Since the E5 and now E10 fuel has been around I have had a few carb problems which are now a thing of the past as I add "Ethanolmate" to each tank of fuel om my bikes and the cars. Other brands with similar properties are available.
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I used a company called "Car Paint Warehouse" to get some touch up for my random red Sixfire. Drove down there, they scanned it, pulled out a set of swatches and then compared them directly to the car. It was down to a choice of 3 by that stage. Next day, the paint was ready for me to collect and it is perfect.
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One other thing. Never tighten up any of the bolts / nuts until you have them all in place. A little bit of give here and there helps with the overall alignment as you attempt to insert bolts through eyes. I too have used old bolts with ground down tapered ends to force bushes and eyes into alignment.
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Lisa makes a very good cup of coffee. The stand seemed to be busy and doing a lot of business all day so here's hoping the club gained a decent financial boost. One of the things I was after was some smooth black Hammerite. Saw it on a number of stands all at different prices so I went to the cheapest and made my purchase only to spot the same thing £5 cheaper, two minutes later on a non-paint stand... Doh!
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23 hours ago, mark powell said:
Are you thinking of Stripteaser?
No, it was definitely not Stripteaser. The owner drove it through the pits using the mini engine and if I recall correctly, it suffered severe damage to the mini transmission when he ran it down the strip. I was there with some friends from MDRA bike section running several of our machines.
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I seem to recall a drag race meeting at Blackbush back in the mid 70s where there was a mini clubman estate with a Jaguar 4.2 engine mounted behind the driver which drove the rather large back wheels. The original engine was still in the front.
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Using Pete's method is fine. I have a colourtune which I use periodically to check that the mixtures are right but tuning for best tick over is pretty much spot on. The final comment about ensuring that the jets reseat after use of the choke is spot on too.
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Dashboard support bracket
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
My Mk3 heater knobs have very tiny allen head screws which secure them onto the metal shaft.