Stratton Jimmer

The bar stewards! Rip off the punters again.

I will be there but beware, I am going along with Dicky Symonds so if you want your ears burned...

My classic car insurance with Adrian Flux is £131 fully comp for my Sixfire (Spitfire 1500 with 2L conversion).

I was over in Malta in 1978 and one of the RAF lads got very drunk in the Traffic Lights Bar just near the top of Strait Street. He decided it would be a good idea to do a streak down the full length of the Gut. We didn't see him again for two days.

I only get mine tested if I have made a significant change or suspect that something may be wrong. My local garage are happy to give the cars a once over without entering them for an official MoT.

Talking to a guy who worked at Castle Combe today he says they got four artics loaded with Mercedes tyres that had never been used. All shipped from Germany. The tyres were six years old and the German authorities forbid tyres of that age. They now form part of the tyre wall at the circuit.

My old Landrover was capable of over cooling and I had a radiator blind fitted but the thermostat was the key thing really. During the very bitter winter of 81/2 I never had to use the blind as the thermostat was doing what it should.

I'm just wondering if you still have a manifold leak which manifests itself when the engine is cold but seals itself up once everything is hot and expanded. I have HS4 carbs on my GT6 and use cheap pancake filters without any problems.

Where do you insert the pound coin to take it away?

Only just picked up this thread. Here's a photo of my Mk3 in which the spin on filter can be seen. It doesn't have a non-return valve and neither does my Sixfire.

That's certainly worth thinking about Iain. It's funny when you look again at the photos that it is clear that the nearside bracket's "vertical" sections do not form right angles with the top. The rear section is probably nearer to a hundred degrees while the front is correspondingly less. The line of weld suggests that the bracket was already bent that way before being welded into position. My thinking now is to grind out the vertical welds, bend the plates back to perpendicular maintaining the gap to fit the wishbone and then re-weld them. I will remove the driveshaft and wishbone as a complete sub-assembly before doing this.

Interesting to see how the fuel flow is adjusted. Exactly what I did to the Sixfire when the carbs were flooding.

Took both rear wheels off and photographed each side. The chassis does have a downward curve and there are definitely no holes for bolting the bracket to the chassis so welded it must be. Perhaps I will revisit the "hammer it back" suggestion... The rearmost angle on the brackets both sides are 5.58 inches as near as I can measure, which is correct.

I see what you mean Jonny, I will whip the wheel off and have a look.

I used some stiff foil from a disposable barbecue to cover the aperture. It worked well and was easy to form and fit.

I ordered the replacement bracket from Canley - excellent service as usual. It has arrived and I find myself confused when I look at it. You can see in the photograph that the front upper horizontal edge (furthest from camera) is not the same as the rear. If this bracket were placed directly on the chassis and welded on, it would be at the same sort of angle that the existing "bent" bracket is. I'm assuming that it should sit perpendicular to the chassis in the vertical plane so that the lower wishbone mounting bolt sits in a parallel line with the chassis. Why is there this difference in the two horizontal mount points as more clearly seen in photo 2 with my mugshot? There's an additional question in my mind... The WSM 5.106 appears to show this bracket with the two bolt holes on the top which then begs the question, should the bracket be bolted on rather than welded?

That's a very good article so thanks for the link Alan.

The welds are solid enough and are skewed at the same angle as the bracket. There's insufficient room to swing a hammer with anywhere near enough force to shift the bracket. I fear that the welds might crack if there were enough force applied. Think its a case of grind off the old and on with the new.

Here's the guilty bracket. The wishbone bolt is loose.

Gosh, this is all very interesting. I'm temporarily refitting my "bent" suspension in order that I can get the car to a suitable welder's facility. Getting the radius arm bush into place is proving awkward as the bush is out of alignment with the bracket's inner hole by about a millimetre. I have made a "slug" to lead the bolt into the hole. The slug is a cut down bolt with a tapered leading head.

That sounds feasible Colin.

I get my spin off filters from the club shop. No complaints from me!

Hi Folks, My GT6 Mk3 - early rotoflex has a misaligned bracket on the rear suspension which needs to be replaced. Canley show the part as being adjustable. My question is simply, why does it need to be adjustable? A further question - is this bracket simply welded on to the chassis? REAR WISHBONE BRACKET ROTOFLEX LH - ADJUSTABLE Part No. 215747

Very nice!

My early Mk3 GT6 has HS4 SUs and runs very well with only tiny tuning changes being made now and again. That is to say that I check the balance every six months or so and also stick the old colourtune in to ensure they haven't drifted off. Like I say, they have never needed more than the slightest adjustment. My sixfire has run reasonably well with HS6 carbs but does run better with CDSE150 Strombergs. Due to a minor issue with the strommies it currently has the SUs back on which are OK. I can't see your problem being a carburettor one so recommend that you do follow Pete's advice... He's rarely (if ever) wrong.