Top Banana

Really pleased for you, it great when our cars do what is required. I have recently thought of having double Whip Ariel with Fluttering Flags on the Car for that attention / visibility. I was recetnly in a motorway services car park behind a van, when he suddenly went into reverse and I paniked and bibbed the horn. I thought he was going to reverse over me. I got and an apologised and explained that sports cars are low and hard to see.

Colin, The Gearknob was my fear and the purchase risk, but the fitting is so tight against the gear stick (it pushes the gear stick into First gear) that even with the removal of the gear knob it cannot be slid upwards and therefore we are into the metal cutting territory. I put this item on my Santa list, the reason for not going for it as an everyday device is that the GT6 is low and I would have to get on my hands and knees to fit it, would not be good whilst wearing my Sunday best. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Centinel-Clutch-security-device-STANDARD/dp/B074DWFMFD/ref=sr_1_100?crid=IXP9710M6JGF&keywords=car%2Block%2Banti-theft%2Bdevice%2Bhandbrake&qid=1662067285&sprefix=%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-100&th=1 This clutch claw is ideal for long-term storage or in a remote garage. I have included the pictures of the amazon listing just in case the product is removed in future John P.S. the Autolock company provides an aggressive super glue to fix a gearknob in place. Not good for us in terms of future maintenance in removing the tunnel cover.

All, I am still on the journey of how to best Immobilise my GT6 Mk1 from theft. I like the idea of a kill switch or battery isolator in the cabin but with the bonnet not locking a knowledgable thief can make progress against deterrents. ( I do like the idea of an internal cabin horn @135 Db sounding, if the ignition feed to the coil is compromised or not initialised via the key) In the interim, I have gone for a physical deterrent of a handbrake to gear stick lock, it took a lot of research to find one small enough to fit and that is the reason for my post to pass knowledge on a safe purchase and from an established UK company that details in security products. I did contemplate a steering lock/foot break lock but my Moto-lit styled steering could easily be cut or misshaped to wriggle off the lock. My other main concern would be scratching the steering wheel. Having watched YouTube videos - a thief with a battery-powered drill or grinder will be able to get through these deterrents within minutes and professionals will probably trailer away our cars if they wanted them. I plan to take a picture each time I put the lock on so I can show the insurance company that I have been diligent in securing the car when parking. This is the company I purchased the item from, it is an Autolock product that they stock. https://www.barriersdirect.co.uk/parking-posts-residential-c1087/handbrake-steering-wheel-locks-plus-vehicle-clamps-c1205/handbrake-to-gear-stick-lock-fits-manual-and-automatic-cars-p911 key features ( NOTE the sizes of the lock in highlighted in BOLD TEXT) The GT6 needs the smaller of the two lock sizes. Product Description The original easy-to-fit car theft deterrent. Simple and effective as it locks the gear stick to the handbrake making impossible to operate the car. Fits manual and automatic cars Fits in seconds Compact for easy storage Easily stored in the car’s glove compartment 3 Keys Supplied as Standard Available in two sizes: STANDARD: Gear stick to handbrake distance 165mm - 250mm MINI: Gear stick to handbrake distance 135mm - 165mm Hope this helps John (Distance measured is from tip of the handbrake to the centre of the gearstick)

Doug, this is the view with the Dashcam mounted high, it clears the wipers nicely and gives a clear view out. A lady at a classic car rally asked her husband to take a picture of her next to the car and she placed her hand on the bonnet. I was elsewhere at the rally and in the evening I reviewed the pir/motion footage and went back into the garage and cleaned off her hand print.

Dashcam already position to record all events !

I am also going to carry a pair of oven gloves 🙂 for handling the hot bonnet.

Hello All, Thank you for your knowledge and experiences above. I am now more aware as to which liquids are flammable, than just petrol. I decided to go for a Foam based extinghiser based on @Josefexperience with dry powder and the effort to clean up. I noted @Dick Twitchen comments on safety and learning a how to fight a fire (I worked in Banking and for computer rooms we flooded the space with Halon or Water after cutting off the Power). Everyone else's advice was - make a decision to get the hell away, if in doubt. I purchased the following from Demon Tweaks https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/lifeline-polished-hand-held-fire-extinguisher-1-75-ltr-lif201-101-002/ Although the 2.4 litre version is better value ,it is also huge dimension wise and bulkier. But it is UK rally approved, I am not sure if this is because of the size/volume required by regulations. I do remember a forum member commenting where to fix the fire extinguisher but cant find it in this thread - General rules are "that it must be secure and within easy reach of the driver and released with one hand and be lifted in one smooth motion". For the GT6 the only practical place was behind the passenger seat, where I can reach over whilst still sitting in the drivers seat. John

Wow, a lot to learn and consider thanks @JohnD @NonMember for the technical insight. I want to pay a little homage, so the Wayne's world sketch comes to mind. In my case (singular) I am not worthy 🙂 see YouTube clip Steve P with his experience of the dampers, mine could be at end of life... Off to do some google searches on suspension basics "Camber","Caster" etc. And hopefully - reread JohnD suggestion as to what I want out of my GT6.

John, thank you for the quote "Yes, a legend, like dragons and fairies" (still smiling now as I write) I would like to explore this subject a little more with other forum members' cooperation. I have reflected above on the merits of changing anything on my suspension. @Colin Lindsay provided a detailed reply about his experience with his GT6 suspension changes. Fixed Spring to Swing Spring and back to Fixed spring and @NonMember feedback to Colin's reply (See quote inserted below) supported the view of keeping the suspension and other items like tyres in good working order. So I am currently focused on "they handle perfectly well for normal use" and what that means to me. To my knowledge, I have not had extreme "Jack up" incidents where I have felt life threatened and had to change my underwear when I got home. When I wrote my original quote at the top of the post "GT6 MK1 have legendary poor handling with the back end's stepping out" I was referring to me driving on wet roads where I know my car acts like a different beast and I feel less "sure-footed" about it handling with instances where the back has stepped out. Likely the tyres losing grip on long bends that are getting tighter or of course applying power and getting a wobble from the back end. I noted that another GT6 owner in the forum is working on the ride and handling (see link below) I only refer to this because of the description/vocabulary of "the ride" of his car and what others have said in their experience. (Again we seem to be pre-occupied that things can be improved with so many suspension upgrade kits being available). This forum post made me reflect on the following: https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/10427-gt6-roto-rear-shocks-comment-invited/#comment-159786 If I am the single occupant in the car then the car feels very "Hoppy" at speed depending on the surface and that is when I feel the back end gives and I miss the odd heartbeat. The other day I drove with a passenger (So, two six-foot Fat Boys around 19 stone each). The roads were dry and the car handling matched my expectation for the first time (I am coming up to 3,000 miles, being a GT6 owner). Only at one point did my passenger notice a drift wobble of the rear with him saying "you recovered that before it became an issue". With the extra weight on accelerating turning out of a corner, I didn't get the normal body roll (which feels like a torsion twist) or skipping out of the rear. And no evidence of the suspension bottoming out on a 70-mile journey, Eureka I thought "I need to carry ballast in the passenger seat" when out alone. So when reading the forum post "GT6 roto rear shocks comment invited" I was drawn to the ride description when adjusting the shock absorbers settings and the ride ranged from Wallowing to Hoppy. My car with a single person is in the Hoppy range and feels I am on top of the road and when I have more weight I am part of the road verging to the wallowing and I feel sure-footed. I would like some help on what "Good tyres" are for the best grip and what tyre pressures to run on. I have never doubted the front end of the car it goes where you tell it to with no obvious under-steer and never over-steer. I read a lot about GT6 tyre pressures on the forum and I know there can be great debate. Please see the pictures of the tyres on the GT6 they are virtually new and came with the car. I had the wheels laser tracked and the suspension cambers front and rear a spot and needed no adjustments with shims or anything. Tyres are Nexan and 155/80 R13 on all four corners.

Kevin, I am available for adoption, you can be my new dad. I would promise to put the tools away after working on my car and turn off the lights.

I went out for a little bimble in the GT6 last week and parked with a view whilst stopping for a coffee from my trusty Stanley flask. Always appreciate people walking by and noticing the car and giving me the thumbs up... Bertie Posing - Thumbs up - 1080WebShareName.mov

Al little of subject, I have been to both Kennedy and Johnson space centre, well worth a visit. I was also lucky to witness the last shuttle launch from coco beach in Florida. The immense power of the rockets on the shuttle (same as Saturn 5 Apollo rockets) the noise involved, means that all observers have to be at least 3 miles from the launch site.

Colin, Mission complete, new light installed off my secondary fusebox which is connected to the battery. The courtesty light came with an LED dead cuffed with the white light from the bulb

All, I will order an assortment of sizes No 6,8 unf and research the link to the flexolite.co.uk. Having looked at the threads of the removed screws on the pump they look very fine (UNF / metric like). Searching through my old tin of screws and nuts, I could not match anything sensible. 10-32 unf is too large. Nothing Metric fitted, but I was able to screw in with a little pressure the "Philips screw" for a Stromberg CD150 that holds the float chamber in place (bought these screws from James Paddock, but the size/thread is not published). I am now contemplating that the existing screws may not be correct since they are slightly loose within the threads the body material seems very soft and that some of the threaded holes are not in fact verticle to the eye (hey ho!). Anyway new screws will go in with a little loctite to steady the ship ! So what I need is the equivalent of a "Jamboree bag" of screws; for those that may be a little young for the reference follow the link below. https://www.doyouremember.co.uk/memory/jamboree-bags Will report back my progress thank you John

All, I am looking to refurbish my very tired fuel pump see attached photo, the screws heads are damaged the previous owner(s) seem to use one size of flat screw driver regardless the size of the screw head size. Does anyone know where I can buy replacements or the size / thread of these screws Also, once I know the thread size I am tempted to replace flat heads with Allen key screws, would this be considered sacrilege from a car authenticity and valuation view point. I am thinking of going for the ANG fuel pump repair kit that Ethonol friendly, I just looking for a quality product. Thank you