Kev
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Posts posted by Kev
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Just to add, from recent experience - buy quality items.
I bought these from eBay recently, the threads on the brass nuts vanished as if by magic on the first hint of pressure, and the studs were not much better.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372782052999?hash=item56cb8ab687:g:8wIAAOSwQItT2RM5
I ended up going to a fastener company, Spalding Fasteners, and bought much better items. They also sell deeper brass nuts which I also bought and these are very good.
Thanks Colin. Ordered from Spalding Fasteners. Thank you for the tip
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Roger that. I'll get a brass bolt and nut and will replace the nylocs.
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Pete, one thing you mentioned... the diaphragm. It does seem baggy and bigger and does not sit snug in the carb. Clean it in petrol to return it to its new shape?
I just checked the valve and it is not sticking at all. I have two fuel filters to catch any debris from the hoses. I may put new hoses on again anyway.
Thanks.
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Taken out the diaphragm and taken some pictures as I have put it back together. I have made sure the two lugs fit in their appropriate place.
There is plenty of fuel in the filter and the fuel pumps out when disconnected. Perhaps it is a sticky float valve? or maybe the diapragm needs replacing. No sign of a tear.
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ok, update for those that are following my progress. The engine starts, with no chirrup noise. Yay!
But, listen to the video with sound up... I promise I am not touching anything! The revs are up and down and it doesn't sound happy.
I have messed about with static timing and the carb dismantle and rebuild etc etc, something I have missed?
I feel like I need to get a tuner?? if there is something I can do myself, please help?? otherwise i'll post a new topic asking for recommendations for a mobile tuner to come to my house in Harlow, Essex. Attached vid. All the best, Kev
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Hi everyone. I think we have success!! I had to drill the stud out in the end and went for a nut and bolt to clamp together. Really appreciate everyone that helped me!
Regards
Kev
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Thanks everyone for your comments. Really appreciated. I purchased a good quality stud remover tool to try first before attempting to drill. The bugger is not budging... Could the stud be a left handed thread perhaps?? I am trying to turn the stud clockwise from above with the carb off the manifold. (which will be anti clockwise from below).
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Hi All
I have removed the 3 nuts on the downpipe (Herald 13/60) from the manifold only to have sheared the thread on one of the bolts!
There is not enough remaining thread shown to refit the exhaust to the manifold.
My question is, can these bolts be removed or are they part of (attached) to the manifold?
If they can be removed, any ideas how and where I can get one of these from?
Hopefully someone can help??
Many thanks
Kev
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Have taken the Carb (Stromberg 150) out the car... removed the float and cleaned the float needle valve. Seemed a little sticky but now moving freely. Whilst had it out, I removed the diaphragm. Upon taking the cover off I expected a spring to pop out, but its not there? What the heck. Where the hell is the spring!?
What issues could happen from a missing spring?
Also to note... when I removed the fuel line from the carb, the fuel spat out from the pressure. Is this normal? Also I could not see signs of fuel in the manifold and the plugs are not wet. So could there be a blockage in the carb somewhere?
Sorry for all the questions.
Cheers
Kev
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Hi All... So I have finally removed the manifold gasket and it seems you guys were correct!! See attached two photos.
However...
Putting everything back together again and not touching ANY of the electrics and only reconnecting the fuel line to the carb, it absolutely will not start at all! Started on the button before.
I have since tried the following...
Checked battery... No battery issues, fuel pump checked, spark plugs sparking, condenser changed.
The only thing I think it can be is the carb. Perhaps when removing the manifold (with the carb still attached), I have moved or dislodged something inside. Maybe a dismantle and clean up is in order.
So frustrating because I cannot even check if the engine noise has been resolved or not!
Kev
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Thank you both for the feedback. I have run the engine without the belt and the noise is still there. The blades are not making contact with anything. I have ordered a new manifold and downpipe gasket and will inspect the manifold when removed. Fingers crossed! Keep you posted
Thanks, Kev
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Hi everyone, Is anyone able to identify this noise? I have had a local mecanic have a look at my car and he put a camera down the spark plug chamber and noticed a few marks on pistons 1 and 2 on the bore. He seems to think it could be Piston Slap. So when the car is cold and idling, it sounds quite loud (as shown in the video). Once warmed up, the sound at idle goes. However, when driving and putting load on the engine the noise comes back. Everytime when putting on load. I'm not a mechanic and my skills are limited to servicing and hope someone on this forum is able to help me in any way. Also, if anyone knows a good mechanic for these classic cars in Essex/Herts area, would be very grateful.
Thanks
Kev
Engine Noise. Piston Slap? Herald 13/60 1968
in Engine
Posted
So I cleaned the carb, again, and made sure no little criters were hiding and refitted. The engine is still reving up and down on its own. After a few days it came to me. Maybe the manifold gasket I fitted was not sealing properly in the air intake part. The exhaust part is sealed. Maybe air is getting inside causing the fluctuations in the revs? So I went online and found an older unused manifold gasket (Payen JA 469) and bought that. It is actually thicker than the new one I recently put in. Will try this one and see what happens!
Thanks, Kev