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Wagger

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastbourne
  • Cars Owned
    At present a Mark 1 Vitesse 2 Litre. Owned two 1600 sixes in the 1970's with the BIG speedo. A 1500 FWD from 1979 to 1987. 1500 and 1854 Dolly's 1987 to 1991.

    Favourite Non Triumph cars have been Riley 1.5, BMW 2002tii, BMW 2500 and BMW 330D Touring.

Cars

  • Cars Owned
    At present a Mark 1 Vitesse 2 Litre. Owned two 1600 sixes in the 1970's with the BIG speedo. A 1500 FWD from 1979 to 1987. 1500 and 1854 Dolly's 1987 to 1991. Favourite Non Triumph cars have been Riley 1.5, BMW 2002tii, BMW 2500 and BMW 330D Touring.

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  1. Thanks Colin. The doors are where the problems are, and new skins are still available. I will experiment with different products on the 'Expendable ' bits. Keeping it dry will prolong its life. Eastbourne is drier than many areas of the UK, but it is near the sea. However, the wind is predominantly from the North East due to the shape of the North & South downs. They turn all gentle Westerlies into this. It is a dry wind. I will get caught out occasionally, but do not intend using he car in poor weather.
  2. My Vitesse was found after several years standing in a garage. It had two rust patches exceeding 2 inches in diameter. One on the Blue Stripe, the other on a White section. Checking the other side of the panels showed all ok, so I simply sanded it and coated these with Blue Hammerite smooth, and their Smooth Cream as that was such a close match that it hardly shows. The blue is rather obvious and will need over painting with something that will not react. (Even more experimentation). I do not intend to do anything else with these patches until next Easter, when the paint should be really hard. As with my other post, I have polished fully cured ' Smoothrite' successfully. However, I am not sure that this was the best solution. I just wanted to stop eyes being dragged to the obvious blemishes. If nothing else, I achieved that with the 'White'. Some of you folks must have done this sort of thing rather than full re-sprays. I do not have the funds or the time for that. Just wanna use it now. Any comments welcome.
  3. As found, my Vitesse had quite a few blemishes. In the past I have tried several rust remedies. The best was Dinitrol and I coated 'Scabs' on my motorcycle mudguards as a test using it throughout a Winter with no extra coating. However, I used it on a car and my mate could not weld to it after me coating an edge with it. Had to grind almost an inch of metal away. I used Hammerite smooth black and white when restoring a motor cycle thirty years ago. I sprayed it all and left it over one Winter whilst doing the mechanics. After assembly, I found that it would take polishing, so long as friction did not heat it up. It lasted well too. Back to the Vitesse. It is Paint code 19 with Trim 16 on the plate. White with a blue stripe. The 'White' is very close to Hammerite Smooth Cream, so I am treating the 'Scabs' with this after a coarse sanding. I am leaving these over Winter and will experiment with over painting next year when this hardens. It is adequate for underbonnet, floor and inside of doors etc, as it is. I have yet to find a match for the faded blue and do not want to mask the whole car just to spray the stripes. I have considered sticky backed Vinyl, after all, other trim bits used for years are 'Stick on'. Have any of you tried this? I am not patient with paint and intnd to conquer this by doing it properly 'Only once' . Many of you must have done this sort of thing, so, what are the best products to use to renovate blemishes?
  4. Could not resist posting here. I lived through several fuel crises. It was 4 gallons for a pound back in the 1960's. It's way past £4 for a gallon now. I transferred to diesel for the main car in 2005. Five cylinder Audi 2.4L six speed. It ran on 100% Bio wich I obtained from a farm in 2008 when fuel rocketed to 132ppl. Bio was 114ppl. it did 45 to 50 mpg weekly commuting. Then had a Skoda 1.9L Octavia that did 50 to 70mpg. That had a DPF and Cat so I back tracked to diesels without a DPF. I had a BMW 330D for 13 years but a van wrote it off. Shame, as it was fun and economical. I am sticking with diesels pre DPF era until I cannot find one. The most I ever obtained from a petrol car was 50mpg in a wee Peugeot 106, 1100cc. Too much to go wrong with anything post 2004 and Straight sixes petrol and diesel will be history soon (sadly) due to the ULEZ restrictions. Motoring will be no fun unless we have a nippy classic eh? OK electric cars are nippy but they don't do it for me. Shame we cannot convert ICE's to Hydrogen, I agree that growing plants for fuel is ridiculous, We need plants for food. We can get gas from our sewage and bio-digestion. Those of you with kids/grandkids get them interested in all possibilities or life on the road will be very dull. I had a motorbike before the 70 mph limit. It was not enforced properly for many years, so I had real fun, even with a 70bhp car.
  5. In reply to Pete it has the 15 deg angled sump, not yet bashed in. A close neighbour does have one bashed in and a 2 litre one bashed out. He will part with one of them when he fits his 2500 into his GT6. So, it's swings and roundabouts time. I'll play the waiting game for now and search for the adapter plate for the overdrive and that mainshaft in the meantime. Will do the whole job when all of the bits have been found. I am not doing any rallies, just short trips to see my aging brothers, all within ten miles of me. Breakdowns are covered. I did once manage to change the gearbox output shaft sitting in the car, but that was on a 1600/6. It was easier to do, however, with the box removed and on the bench when putting the unwanted bits back in the donor car which I then sold. The long way round is often the quickest way home eh. Like Eastbourne to Folkstone.
  6. OK Decision time. I will run it as it is, because it all works. I expect problems. If none occur, all well and good. If they do occur it will be time to find all of the missing bits, replace the overdrive and re-position all of it. Sump bashing included! Actually, I would prefer the 2 litre engine and would be prepared to swap all if it comes to it. Watch this space guys.
  7. Feeling slightly better now. The space between the diff and gearbox flange is 47.625 to 47.75 inches. Not gonna worry about it as moving the engine forward is going to create loads of work. It can be used as it is until something really big goes wrong. I did try finding previous owners to ask what and why. No luck. I am documenting all of it for my son who will own it after me.
  8. Sorry guys. I'm having a bad day today. Vomiting every half hour. Writing this between bouts as a diversion (won't risk too much information). Had a lovely day yesterday clearing garden and getting the oil light reinstated. Overdid it again. It would appear that there is a good mix of bits on this car. When well, I will measure and take pictures as I go. There are two pages of receipts and details of parts purchased for this car in 1998. Loads of work done back then. The handwriting is awful, but needs deciphering really. My sympathy to all of you with 'Conditions'. I am expert at handling Advanced Prostate Cancer (after 3 yrs now) and will pass on anything useful for that. Email lloyd@daft.net as it is not really for ths forum. I did post my experience on Macmillan and Prostate Canceruk. If you can, enjoy the rest of the day.
  9. Apologies for confusing everyone. I will measure the chassis points one day. Its a bit of a grotty task when od and not 100% well.
  10. I am going to close this post soon because I am not being understood. The propshaft is bang on the fitted length for a non overdrive Mk1 2L Vitesse according the the Factory issued GT6 and Vitesse Manual. Compressed it is bang on too. If I move the engine in front of the turrets the spline does not allow it to reach, I have tried it! The prop is mid spline as stated before. It is not being stretched or compressed. None of the rubber mounts are under any strain now because I adjusted the gearbox mounting plate which has several holes in it because the car was, originally, built with an overdrive. I cannot account for the reason why one previous owner removed it. It is in the spares box minus the adapter plate. No gearbox output shaft either, I have done this all before too, in 1974 when kits were available (How I wish). There must be a different set of flanges fitted or some change made somewhere. I am not going to worry myself about it any more. It works and is drive-able. Life is too short to worry about every imperfection. It is now time to use and enjoy it before I become incapable of doing so. The engine is clear of steering rack, Carbs and Top Hose without need for sump bashing. It will foul everywhere if moved forward. Maybe one of the previous owners knew what he was doing. Did try finding them but their 'Use by' dates had expired. My policy now will be 'If it ain't broken, why fix it?'
  11. Sorry guys, we have been through all of this before in other threads. I cannot fit the engine in front of the Turrets because the prop will not reach. I have measured the prop length at three different points. They are all within 2mm. I want somebody to measure theirs for comparison. My prop is mid spline, as it should be. I have a flat smooth garage floor and can see no other way now other than checking with plumb lines dangling where I can reach them and checking against the manual. I cannot do the impossible here and fit the engine where it should be if the prop won't reach. The back end is all where it should be. I checked all of that when doing the rear shafts. Gearbox is the last GT6 3 rail one on the 2500cc engine. If the engine to gearbox distance is shorter than standard, that would explain a lot. The annoying thing really is that it all works ok. Drive fine with no nasty noises. Some of it looks like a bodge, but other bits show great thought and planning by somebody now dead. Great shame.
  12. This is not urgent but, if any of you have a Mk1 2 litre Vitesse without overdrive I would like to know what the length of your propshaft is when fitted. I measured mine two sides and bottom with a steel tape ty-wrapped to the prop over the flanges then subtracted the two flange thicknesses as it was easier that way than 'Seeing' the join (to quote Eric Morecombe). Mine is bang on the fitted length in all factory manuals but the car has 'Grown' as it has aged by 1/2 to 3/4 inch. There is evidence of a rear end 'Shunt' but I cannot find any 'Cut and shut' joins. I know that the body can be 'Adjusted' but the chassis cannot be unless sections have been replaced inaccurately. Measuring the chassis datum points front to rear is very tedious and nigh on impossible without moving the car. It needs two to four plumb lines and a long reach. Then, one cannot be sure to have marked the spot accurately.
  13. It has taken me almost 3 months to get this car so that is is usable. Had to venture out in the main car to find 20 litres of Super-unleaded because I only had 3 litres left in the tank after playing around for ten weeks. I also wanted to flush the fuel through again after fitting a glass bowl type fuel pump. I fitted the service kit first, of course. I experimented with pumps in series and found that all will work ok whichever one is first in line. I have left both in situ but disconnected the cheapo electric one which has an inline filter screwed onto it. The mechanical one now sucks through it. If I need to, I can use the electric one to drain he system by simply disconnecting a pipe and collecting it in a can. Gave some to D-I-Law when she was desperate last week using this method. Switches are in the cockpit so that arcing does not cause problems. Should the mechanical one fail, I can get home using the electric one. I am never sure these days if replacement parts are up to the job. I am now working on sorting the locks so that I can do the occasional shopping trip and visit the local group and spares man. I am going to use a wheelclamp if I have to leave it out of sight. I have always used my own tricks for immobilising engines with 'Points' in the distributor. Shorting the points out is a good dodge and it can be done invisibly. If you do this, or remove the rotor arm, leave a warning for yourself on the steering wheel or key ring. I have returned after a few hours and forgotten that I did this. Very embarassing.
  14. Wagger

    UK gone mad

    Any line to earth is (nominally) 230v. Three phase (nominally) only 440v if you touch two different phases. Always keep one hand in the pocket and wear rubber soles. Of course the 'Peak' values are much higher. Single phase to earth can now be 256v if you have solar with feed in. I won't bore you all with the real figures except that the UK is still higher voltage than Europe, The standards were idiotically 'Harmonised' to fit 220v +&-10%. We were 240v +&- 6%. Enough! As a result of that we suffered very 'iffy' chargers, bulbs that blow or burn and cookers that draw over 13 amps through our fused plugs. Must get off the soap box again, I retired, thank goodness, One place that I worked at had 3 phase transformed down to 24v 3 phase for educational purposes. Relatively safe and fun.
  15. Wagger

    UK gone mad

    It should have read ' Do not waste time talking sense to fools, they cannot appreciate it'.
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