Maggs

Badwolf. the Ferrex and Parkside battery's are not interchangeable however someone has already mocked up an adapter that can be downloaded for free and 3d printed, and with a few terminals and a couple of wires it can be made and then you can use both tools with the same battery. If you do not have access to a 3d printer there are companies that should be able to print it for a few quid. Both the Ferrex and Parkside batteries don't have any of the overcharge protection circuitry built in so adapters are not a problem to use.

I may fit an electric pump while i'm doing the wiring, I will see how well I can get the original. I'm not looking to make this 100% original but also don't want to make it super 'modern' but there are a few saftey things I want to add as my elderly father wants to drive it and he has been in modern cars now for a long time. He won't drive it a lot but if a lot of pumping is needed I'd rather him not be distracted for that long., Yeah under the rusty clamp it does seem to be some kind of potentiometer. I also caught a glimpse of a scotch lock on the loom! so it seems its been assaulted fairly recently with after market things as I believe scotch locks are a newish thing? There is a receipt from 1999 in there so it was driven until at least then. Thanks, I will remember to put the battery in the wrong way. It still boggles my mind that positive earth was a thing. Sorry that's my fault, I should have mentioned that.

Thanks Doug, I meant the other left (doh) there is another turny knob on the far right that I can't work out The switch like the rest of the car is covered in waxoil, which I am not looking forward to removing, I hate the smell of thinners. I did think it was just bad overspray but having not had a classic before and knowing they were hand painted in the factory I thought it could have been a quirk. Thank you Colin, I never thought to look under the lip on the dash for a light and had assumed there was just no interior light. The spring is not fitted on the clutch so that's probably why it sticks on the floor and is more than likely unrelated to the clutch issue then, the spring was obviously removed while it was being fiddled with. I have the spring I believe, I found it in the footwell. My father mentioned something about having to manually pump the screen wash, I think I will just need to see what it does when I get a battery in it. Thank you.

So I have had a chance to have a quick look at the triumph. I am currently doing some work on my other car but as soon as i've finished that I will be cracking on with the Triumph. I have a few, probably stupid questions. What does this toggle switch do? And the turning knob furthest on the left? the two prong thing I'm guessing is for one of those old school inspection lamp doodads and can be removed. There is no interior light but there is a switch on the door ... i can't think as to what this is for? The car has also had an alternator conversion, I didn't even realise that positive earth was even a thing, the battery is currently not fitted, what's the best way for me to check if its been converted to negative earth? The car was originally stored due to an issue with the clutch. The clutch pedal actually sticks to the floor, I found a small spring when stripping out the carpet (ruined) should the clutch pedal have a return spring? I had a quick look but couldn't see where it would hook on. There is no apparent leaking from the master cylinder so I will take the tunnel off and take a look at the slave. When the car was originally saved the paint was ruined and I was told it had a quick blow over spray job, I am finding a lot of overspray around the place, is this how they left the factory or just from the bad paint job? I was under the impression the inside hadn't been touched. That's it for now for the stupid questions. It's still covered in waxoyl but I have found a few holes already by poking around. The floorpans are all solid, there seems to be holes in places where dirt has sat. The chassis seems solid. I am hoping to get it cleaned off and see how bad the tin worm is. Here are some sneak peaks at the damage Bottom of windscreen Top corner of boot Very thin around drain hole in the boot The other drain hole in the boot Below rear window It's going to get worse when I strip it back, but its not too bad, the doors are solid and all the main points I have seen heralds rust seem good. Thanks Maggs

Hi, I will be fitting a fuse box and a few other things like hazards when I get started on my restoration. I find the black and white diagram a bit hard to follow so I colourised it. I am putting it here in case it is of any use to anyone else. I wasn't sure how to tackle the white so just made it an off white colour unless it was a trace.

Hi, I am new to classic cars, I have a Herald with an interesting past that I am going to be 'restoring', I will most likely be requiring some of your knowledge so I thought I would introduce myself, and the car and thank you all in advance. I am in my early thirties and have worked with many modern cars, I thought I knew a lot having done a head rebuild, replaced rear beams, gearbox's, brake pipes and all sorts of repairs on my cars over the years but only ever FWD cars. I got a manual for the herald and having a read through I am clearly lacking! Trunnions, rolling chassis, leaf spring suspension etc are all new to me. I am handy with the spanners and also paint so I'm confident with some reading and hands on experience I can get this done. So the herald is a white 56 1200 with bright red interior, It's been in my family since 1999 and I have many memories of being driven around in it as a child, in fact the bright orange harness that was put in the back for me is still there. It had a sad story, it was bought new by a young lady who sadly died in the first year of ownership, and her parents put it in the garage, and that's where it stayed until 1998 when it was rescued. It was in good condition apart from the paint which had been destroyed but it was just cosmetic, no rot. It has the type 12 front disk option and also front seatbelts which I am not sure if they were an option or if they were standard in that year. I'm not sure how it worked but it had to be re-registered with the DVLA, and in turn it lost the original plate, but got given a date relevant plate instead, I don't know why this was. The alternator conversion was done and It was driven around for a number of years until there was an issue with the clutch, believed to be the clutch slave master cylinder, and then got put back into a garage in 2005 until this very day. My dad covered it, literally the whole thing inside and out in waxoyl out to store it until he could sort it, he also has a 1500 dolomite engine and gearbox with overdrive from our previous dolomite that rusted away that he was going to put in it, but it never happened and now he has heart failure and it will never happen so I want to take on the project, I think it will be nice to get it done for him but it's definitely not as solid now as when it went in. There seems to be a lot of surface rust but its been covered in crap so it's hard to tell. I am just about finishing getting my garage sorted so I can take it on, I am going to spend the next few weeks trying to learn as much as I can about it. I know it will probably need some welding but I'm hoping it's not too rotten, my welds aren't pretty but nothing a grinder and some paint doesn't fix. Once I get it structurally and mechanically sorted I will want to make a few changes to make it safer for him to drive. From what I can tell there are quite a few differences between the years of the herald and the manual I have only covers up to 1965 so I'm guessing there was some substantial changes made in the 96 models, from what I can tell it has a different type of clutch. Sorry for the essay, I will start a thread on the restoration with some pictures when I get it all situated, any help/information on the changes between the years, or any information you think I will need will be much appreciated. Kind Regards