Ian Smith

Sorry Folks, a bit late to the show..... I try to use the ring size with just the one hex, rather like a hex socket. I'm not a great advocate of mixed sizes on the same spanner "Neither fish nor fowl"... As we all know, always buy the best you can afford for the job

A couple of things arrive out of this. I explained to Mrs Smith that she ought to get a dashcam for her 'normal' and get one for my van. Maisie is tucked away at Smith Towers, but I know full well that once finished, There will be one or two cameras as well. Ian.

Apparently, it sounds fantastic... Just as well I'm colour blind.... JOKE

If you've got the drive plate out, then you 'might' be able to source a replacement. People like AP or Borg & Beck issue manuals for cross-reference purposes. Things like diameter, thickness of plate, splines, etc, are the key. Quick tip:- Go to the spares department when it's quiet... Asking for oddball stuff when there's 20+ hairy-ar$ed fitters awaiting their bits & bobs will normally elicit a blank 'no mate, we don't keep that'. Ask instead for an old clutch book from the factors. That way, you can go in ready armed, and the existing clutch plate is the ready comparison test. Actually, you've done me a favour... I've also got a Type 9 conversion to go in, so I'll be taking serious dimensional notes before I bolt it all together. Remember also, that standardised parts are the norm these days. The day of 1,000 production runs have long gone. It's more like 1,000,000... You might need a clutch plate from a Hankee- Zini -Zog 9000 (whatever) but the object is to keep the car on the road. I do like this forum, y'know! Finally, any clutch plate refurbishers about? Ian.

Hello folks, a bit late to the party (as usual ). For what it's worth, I've been looking on Youtube, about electrolytic cleaning. It looks really simple (like me) and is relatively inexpensive. I'm not sure it's Ok for hi-spec electronic gadgetry, but for things like chassis parts, it might do the job. A colleague has a similar set-up for the steam loco he's restoring, and results are very good. I just need a very long plastic box to retain the fluid. Any prior knowledge by the collective is, as usual, gratefully received. Cheers, Ian.

Yes indeed. I haven't done that myself, but can understand how it'll work.

To translate.... And, example. A free-standing bandsaw, with a working throat of 10 inches (250mm) The out-field stand was made from a sheet of ply, with 1-inch increments. running out at 90 degrees from the blade. The increments are formed by drilling a small pin hole at each increment. An example, perhaps, is to make a 36-inch circle. First, scribe the circle such that the job can pass through the throat of the bandsaw. Then, centre the job to be cut, and drill a small hole. Move the centre pin out to 18 inch, which is half the diameter of the 36-inch job. Ensure that the bandsaw has sufficient clearance to commence cutting. With the job centred on the pin, the job now follows around the scribed circle. I'm probably not describing this very well, but if you google 'cutting circles with a bandsaw, you should get a good idea. The 12-foot diameter was needed to prescribe a curve on a piece of wood, which needed to be quite accurate.

I used to make outfields for my bandsaw, and circular saw. The bandsaw had a capacity for 12 feet diameter, but that was a one-off job. Norm Abraham has an excellent series on YouTube, called New Yankee Workshop. It's not necessarily about cars; more the process side of things. Cheers, Ian.

I do indeed like that Burlington; more photos the merrier, I say. These photos illustrate perfectly the problems Ray experienced vis-a-vis carburettor to engine bay clearances. Right now, I'm thinking about a different style of inlet manifold, to allow better clearance. Effectively, turn the inlets to a rearwards-facing direction, with the carbs in the free space, above the clutch. I might have mentioned this before, but very early days..... More photos? Yes please! Have a good weekend, folks. Ian.

That resto looks nice.... Ian.

Thanks Colin. I think I will need some new brackets in the very near future. My current work focuses around making the transverse cross-member I mentioned back in November. Right now, I trying to find a machine shop down here that will handle one-offs. It's my own fault, I guess. I get distracted from time to time.... Give me a week, and I should have something to show. Cheers, Ian.

Grr.... DVLA this, and DVLA that.... Well this isn't that. Fair play to the Sons of Fun at Swansea, my V5 re-appeared to within a day or so of the reported time (12 weeks ) at Smith Towers. Given the backlog they are working with, I think that's pretty sharp work. sadly, nothing much to show, apart from a growing collection of parts in storage. Better weather beckons, so I'm getting ready.... Ian.

In certain circumstances, you might try a 'Dowty' washer. As Pete has mentioned, sealing off a joint is prone to leaking, as over-tightening the leading thread will cut through a rubber washer. to resolve that, pass a file over the leading thread, to get the flat face joint.

Please check my previous posts, folks. Imperial taper is 1-48, whilst metric taper is 1-50. Although it's close, the differing angles are enough to mess up the job, especially if we're down to the smaller sizes. I still can't remember where my Zeus booklet is, but everything is available via Google. I'd respectfully suggest that a full, 100% quality check is performed on a new drain plug. I've seen some wonderful things on 'bay, which are nowhere near close. As a slight aside, on some fixings on water systems need a full-plug tap to finish off. A normal tap has a lead in; usually, first, second, and bottom. Some taps, however, require no lead whatsoever, going to the full depth in one pass. In appearance, it'll look like a headless bolt, with a set of grooves up the side. If you need to have one, grind the 'lead' off the tap. Like the Zeus, I can't find my copy, but that's how I've made mine before. However, please, please, check the veracity of both this post, and my previous post. Cheers, Ian.

It might be tapered, at 1/4" BSPT. "Where's my bl**dy Zeus when I need it? Ensuring the threads (both male & female ) are clean & OK, try putting a couple of threads of PTFE on the joint. If it's a parallel thread into a straight thread, it'll either bottom out, or foul at the top on the female side. Finally, are the block & radiator drains of the same thread gauge? I'm still pretty sure it's still 1/4" BSP, or 1/4" BSP Taper) which (should) be 12 degrees on the taper. Check I've got it right, however.

I would suggest swopping them out. As Pete has said, if you suspect damage to the camshaft, check it over, and, if you have doubts or evidence, then change it also. And, not forgetting, tappets as well. It's better to be on your safe side.

Just a really long shot.... Really looooong........ Allegro-Maxi 1500-1750? I don't know why, just something at the back of the head. Not a flywheel, but a ring-gear.

Hi Folks, Well, I submitted my previous post upon that of Josesf's work. if it is, indeed, 'tosh' (and, it might be ) would anyone care to update the figures? I say this not as a combative statement, but in support of what is (I hope) an open forum. After all, if more people feel the Triumph is an eminently practical classic (which it is ) then even more people might get interested in what's it all about. I think we all know & understand that a healthy core of existing cars can roughly translate to a healthy spares base. I do wonder about the 1 existing Moskvitch 406/8 which allegedly still exists.....

Going upon Josef's post (nice work, Josef ) I had a little look at the GT6 page. It seems that the number of these has remained steady for the last year or two, and has actually gone up. Whereas tourists go to Cuba to see the old cars which are kept going, perhaps it'll become the same for the UK. I think there was a article the other day about the vintage & classic car market remaining buoyant. Is that correct? Cheers, Ian.

"Yer pays yer money, and takes yer choice....."

Also, please excuse my ignorance. However, that looks beautiful. There is an MG not far from the OP's location (north Wales) which is equally beautiful, and full credit to their respective owners. Cheers, Ian.

I went to Aldi yesterday; only a loaf of bread.... came out with a Honduran telephone directory, set of cymbals, and a set picture postcards from Flat Holm on a rainy day. The Christmas aisle was well stocked with Easter Eggs.

I bought my 'box adaptor plate from Canley a few months back, which meant that I entered their system. The big upside was when I bought other bits & bobs from them, they recognised me as a previous customer. My clutch plate got overnighted to me ...... Whoosh, and it was here. Nice work. Cheers, Ian.

Hello folks, I hope everyone is OK. I'm looking for a set of hub splines, to fit Triumph, Rudge 42mm. Condition is immaterial. These splines are intended for positional work on the chassis here, and as such, won't be going on the road. Additionally, if someone has 2 spinners (1 each L&R ) that would be fantastic. Once again, workshop use, so exterior condition immaterial. Any responses, as usual, will be gratefully received & publicly acknowledged. Cheers, Ian.

I'm going to have a large magnet on the front of my car... Except... Damn those vehicles with plastic bumpers!